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Sound Reinforcement - Forums for Live Sound Professionals - Your Displayed Name Must Be Your Real Full Name To Post In The Live Sound Forums => LAB Lounge => Topic started by: Debbie Dunkley on February 24, 2019, 10:28:05 AM
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Throwing this out to my bass playing / parts peeps .....
Chris has a Gallien Krueger neo 210 cab that is the old wedge shape. He hasn't used backline with our band for so long now and he has a couple of other alternatives he could use when necessary so he wants to sell it.
They haven't made this unusual style of cab for a long time and he has had a lot of interest in it over the years.
Anyway, thing is this is the first cab he has ever blown drivers in. The first one blew at a rehearsal years ago - low level and no reason to blow - BUT it did. I ordered a replacement from GK, replaced it and we were good to go.
Since the repair, it has been used rarely and he blew off the cobwebs yesterday to check it out to sell and lo and behold - the other driver is rubbing- GEEEZ. If I didn't know hubby well enough I might have accused him of over driving this thing but I know he hasn't and I have been there each time it has been used.
So to my question.
Do I replace with the same woofer? It is a Paragon 10" 200w 16 ohm # 082-0460-B which is the same as the replacement GK sent me last time. However, I now see 082-0460-C listed on the GK website for that cab.
OR..... do I risk something different of better quality (upgrade?) and replace both woofers?
To clarify... if we upgrade, we will keep it. If not we will sell.
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I just looked up that part number and the speaker looks like an Eminence Deltalite, off the shelf those are only available in 8 and 4 ohm. I assume that cabinet is rated at 8 ohm with the two 16 ohms speakers wired in parallel. You could use two 4 ohm speakers wired in series.
Their MI cabinet series neo speakers look about the same only in a stamped frame but are available in 16 ohm.
I'm guessing it was a custom Deltalite version for GK.
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I saw one on eBay and one on Reverb, they wanted $80-90 each for a reported “used in excellent condition” replacement of the B version. Could you possibly get the non working speaker reconed? Have you contacted G-K to see if they possibly have a NOS laying around?
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I saw one on eBay and one on Reverb, they wanted $80-90 each for a reported “used in excellent condition” replacement of the B version. Could you possibly get the non working speaker reconed? Have you contacted G-K to see if they possibly have a NOS laying around?
I could contact GK but the last replacement cost us $136 plus shipping so this is becoming quite an expensive little cab.
With having both original woofers blow with careful use, I am not sure a used one at that price makes sense.
If we could find a 'better' woofer - something that might last AND will work in that cabinet, I'd pay more just to get some years on it. However, if we can get either an OEM or similar woofer with the same specs, I will get one of those and sell the cab because I am not sure we can trust it anymore. It is frustrating though because what i will get for it won't even cover the replaced woofers so far.
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I just looked up that part number and the speaker looks like an Eminence Deltalite, off the shelf those are only available in 8 and 4 ohm. I assume that cabinet is rated at 8 ohm with the two 16 ohms speakers wired in parallel. You could use two 4 ohm speakers wired in series.
Their MI cabinet series neo speakers look about the same only in a stamped frame but are available in 16 ohm.
I'm guessing it was a custom Deltalite version for GK.
4 ohm would work if I replace both woofers.
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Of course the other alternative is to sell 'as is' to someone who might want to do the repair or replace for something else. I just don't like selling stuff that isn't 100% even with the disclosure made clear.
We couldn't even hear it at first until Chris turned up a little and hit F# and lower....when I checked it out the rubbing was slight. maybe I could rotate the woofer to see if it helps......
edit : No... no go on rotating.
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I just looked up that part number and the speaker looks like an Eminence Deltalite, off the shelf those are only available in 8 and 4 ohm. I assume that cabinet is rated at 8 ohm with the two 16 ohms speakers wired in parallel. You could use two 4 ohm speakers wired in series.
Their MI cabinet series neo speakers look about the same only in a stamped frame but are available in 16 ohm.
I'm guessing it was a custom Deltalite version for GK.
Paragon apparently...
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Here's what I found when I first Googled the part number.
https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/558147-gallien-krueger-082-0460-c-10-woofer-for-neo-210-410-mb210?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvvnR__nU4AIVSSCtBh2urQ4mEAYYASABEgLuPvD_BwE (https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/558147-gallien-krueger-082-0460-c-10-woofer-for-neo-210-410-mb210?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvvnR__nU4AIVSSCtBh2urQ4mEAYYASABEgLuPvD_BwE)
The one I found I GK website is a completely different speaker.
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Here's what I found when I first Googled the part number.
https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/558147-gallien-krueger-082-0460-c-10-woofer-for-neo-210-410-mb210?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvvnR__nU4AIVSSCtBh2urQ4mEAYYASABEgLuPvD_BwE (https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/558147-gallien-krueger-082-0460-c-10-woofer-for-neo-210-410-mb210?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvvnR__nU4AIVSSCtBh2urQ4mEAYYASABEgLuPvD_BwE)
The one I found I GK website is a completely different speaker.
The 'c' suffix is what I now see available on Full Compass as you linked to AND the GK site. The original driver has a 'B' suffix -which prompted my original question.
I am tempted to go ahead and try a couple of these 4 ohm replacements...woofer (https://www.amazon.com/Eminence-Legend-BP102-Amplifier-Speaker/dp/B0009H7R14/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_267_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=HF303YD877A1B0JYCKWM&th=1) or similar.
I am reading that they are popular as replacements in a variety of bass cabs.
It's not about the money but more that fact that if we keep the cab, I don't want to be back in this position in 6 months.
If Chris was at fault and could be blamed for this, it would make things easier because I could go ahead and get the direct replacement and just tell him to be more careful - LOL - BUT it really isn't his fault so it has to be more to do with the speaker quality.
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Hello Debbie, if you replace.woofer, both woofers should be identical.
If you want to venture to upgrade, you need to measure internal volume, port length and area, and run analyzer like WinISD with the Thiele & Small parameters of the candidate woofer, check for excursion, port air speed, and frequency response. It is not easy, took me years and several failed designs to get to a point I can design properly. So it could be an interesting lesson, you'll gain a lot of appreciation for audio eoms. The design process also helped me become better at mixing, understanding where a system's limitation truly lies.
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CL it to someone for repair.... those things weren’t all that great sounding to begin with...
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Hello Debbie, if you replace.woofer, both woofers should be identical.
If you want to venture to upgrade, you need to measure internal volume, port length and area, and run analyzer like WinISD with the Thiele & Small parameters of the candidate woofer, check for excursion, port air speed, and frequency response. It is not easy, took me years and several failed designs to get to a point I can design properly. So it could be an interesting lesson, you'll gain a lot of appreciation for audio eoms. The design process also helped me become better at mixing, understanding where a system's limitation truly lies.
Hah - yeah - no!.... I won't be doing all that for sure!! This would sadly be a bit of a risk. If I do try this I would definitely replace both speakers - I would have to anyway if I am changing the impedance.
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The 'c' suffix is what I now see available on Full Compass as you linked to AND the GK site. The original driver has a 'B' suffix -which prompted my original question.
The B is what I first found on the GK site.
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The B is what I first found on the GK site.
I don't see the 'B' on the GK site BUT the 'C' is described as being the replacement for the neo 210 cab.
I might just contact GK and ask them what the difference is. It would be really good if the 'C' was the 'new improved' version - I doubt it.....
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I don't see the 'B' on the GK site BUT the 'C' is described as being the replacement for the neo 210 cab.
I might just contact GK and ask them what the difference is. It would be really good if the 'C' was the 'new improved' version - I doubt it.....
Ok it was a different model number B series speaker.
http://store.gallien-krueger.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=082-0830-B (http://store.gallien-krueger.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=082-0830-B)
In all fairness for that type of bass guitar cabinet I'm going to say just about any Eminence 10 inch bass speaker will work.
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To clarify... if we upgrade, we will keep it. If not we will sell.
If you keep it you may consider adding a HPF to the instrument signal chain. Can find stand-alone instrument level models from Fdeck, Broughton, MA Soundworks.
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Ok it was a different model number B series speaker.
http://store.gallien-krueger.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=082-0830-B (http://store.gallien-krueger.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=082-0830-B)
That's the ferro model, not the neo that would be the match for Deb's. I suppose 2 of these would do if re-speakering, but would add weight.
I made the mistake of re-speakering my Ampeg 4x10 cab with Eminence Deltas instead of something neo, and my back has cussed me out ever since.
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That's the ferro model, not the neo that would be the match for Deb's. I suppose 2 of these would do if re-speakering, but would add weight.
I made the mistake of re-speakering my Ampeg 4x10 cab with Eminence Deltas instead of something neo, and my back has cussed me out ever since.
From what I can tell there would be about a 3 - 6lbs difference in weight per woofer depending on which ferro replacement I would choose. So total of around 10lbs increase for the cab - 2x10 isn't as bad as a 4x10 I suppose.
Neo would be better though.....neo is always better ....
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If you keep it you may consider adding a HPF to the instrument signal chain. Can find stand-alone instrument level models from Fdeck, Broughton, MA Soundworks.
The cab has a (limited) freq selectable horn - is this enough??
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The cab has a (limited) freq selectable horn - is this enough??
I'm referring to using a HPF to filter out the lowest bass frequencies, below the F3 of the cab. Would be placed between the bass and the amplifier to help protect the woofers in the cab.
Some links:
Fdeck (Series 3 is frequency adjustable):
https://sites.google.com/site/hpftechllc/home/hpf-pre (https://sites.google.com/site/hpftechllc/home/hpf-pre)
Broughton (frequency adjustable):
https://www.broughtonaudio.com/ (https://www.broughtonaudio.com/)
SFX Micro thumpinator (frequency fixed):
http://sfxsound.com/microthumpinator/ (http://sfxsound.com/microthumpinator/)
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I'm referring to using a HPF to filter out the lowest bass frequencies, below the F3 of the cab. Would be placed between the bass and the amplifier to help protect the woofers in the cab.
Some links:
Fdeck (Series 3 is frequency adjustable):
https://sites.google.com/site/hpftechllc/home/hpf-pre (https://sites.google.com/site/hpftechllc/home/hpf-pre)
Broughton (frequency adjustable):
https://www.broughtonaudio.com/ (https://www.broughtonaudio.com/)
SFX Micro thumpinator (frequency fixed):
http://sfxsound.com/microthumpinator/ (http://sfxsound.com/microthumpinator/)
Oh sorry .... I see. Is it good practice to do this normally or just with not so expensive bass cabs?
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I'm referring to using a HPF to filter out the lowest bass frequencies, below the F3 of the cab. Would be placed between the bass and the amplifier to help protect the woofers in the cab.
Most MI bass cabinets are not tuned as low as they want you to believe.
A high pass would not only help save the speakers but should help "tighten up" the bass amp's sound.
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Oh sorry .... I see. Is it good practice to do this normally or just with not so expensive bass cabs?
Probably good practice all the way around, regardless of quality of cab. I've got some boutique 12"/6" bass cabs driven by a bridged Crown MA2402 that I ran with a 32hz HPF for over 15 years without any issues. A couple years back I picked up a couple of micro class D heads and stopped using a HPF...now two of four cabinets are damaged. I'm a knucklehead.
I'm not saying that over-excursion caused the problems you've had, but it could prevent further issues once you're all fixed up.
Most MI bass cabinets are not tuned as low as they want you to believe.
A high pass would not only help save the speakers but should help "tighten up" the bass amp's sound.
Agreed. Most are probably tuned much higher than the PA subs we're used to using.
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Agreed. Most are probably tuned much higher than the PA subs we're used to using.
For someone at FOH that is a good thing.
I would not be surprised that a speced 40hz low end response on your average bass cabinet is not at least 15db down.
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Thanks so much everyone - very interesting and makes total sense to me.
I don't think I would have ever thought about using a HPF - yet I utilize it on every channel on my mixer- DOH !
So there has been a development. I tried something today.
I turned the woofer 180 degrees and stood the cab in front of the gas vented fire in our living room a few feet away so not to get too hot.
I was hoping to loosen up the adhesive a bit so that the coil would move enough to loosen off the tight side. After about an hour, I checked the woofer and .... and.... no rubbing.
It has since cooled off and still no rubbing.
We will check it out tomorrow with bass (being careful with low end of course -LOL) and I'll report back.... fingers crossed. ( Be vewwy vewwy quiet)
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Oh sorry .... I see. Is it good practice to do this normally or just with not so expensive bass cabs?
Very few 10" have the excursion capability below 50 Hz. Eminence Kappalite 3010LF is one of the few that does. Usually 10" bass cabs by themselves are used for small gigs or monitor purpose, where fundamentals are not necessary. Not many bass heads have a HPF button, but most have a bass EQ that can be dialed down to achieve this. May not sound as satisfying, but physics is physics.
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I had assumed the bass amp or speaker cabs themselves would be designed in such a way to include an HPF protection for this reason so I had never even thought about adding one TBH.
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I had assumed the bass amp or speaker cabs themselves would be designed in such a way to include an HPF protection for this reason so I had never even thought about adding one TBH.
Most passive speakers do not have passive HPF on the low frequency section, as it gets heavy and hot.
Here is a bass head that does have HPF.
http://www.mesaboogie.com/amplifiers/bass/subway-series/subway-wd800/index.html
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Most passive speakers do not have passive HPF on the low frequency section, as it gets heavy and hot.
Here is a bass head that does have HPF.
http://www.mesaboogie.com/amplifiers/bass/subway-series/subway-wd800/index.html
Nice amp.
Weird thing is though that Chris has been playing bass for 40 years and has only been going direct (no backline) for the last 3 or 4. This is the first speaker (both drivers) he has EVER blown and he has a lot more respect and knowledge now than he did when he was 13.
Years ago he only had cabs with 100 -150w handling and always pushed them really hard but still never an issue.
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Today I ordered the Broughton HPF pedal. Thanks for the advice Patrick and everyone else too.
I'll get Chris to try out the woofer later today to see if there is any evidence of coil rub after the heat application...
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( Be vewwy vewwy quiet)
"We're hunting Wabbit!" - E. Fudd
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I had assumed the bass amp or speaker cabs themselves would be designed in such a way to include an HPF protection for this reason so I had never even thought about adding one TBH.
Most "bass amp" speakers have stiff enough suspensions to not get torn up from excursion below Fb (box tuning) and high excursion tends to cool the voice coil, and the second harmonic distortion makes us believe that the fundamental is there even when it is almost non-existant.
Check that the amp is not putting out a bit of DC voltage, it takes surprisingly little to roast a voice coil, or heat it to the point that the former deforms or blisters.
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Most "bass amp" speakers have stiff enough suspensions to not get torn up from excursion below Fb (box tuning) and high excursion tends to cool the voice coil, and the second harmonic distortion makes us believe that the fundamental is there even when it is almost non-existant.
Check that the amp is not putting out a bit of DC voltage, it takes surprisingly little to roast a voice coil, or heat it to the point that the former deforms or blisters.
Interesting. Not sure how I'd check that Art but of course a possibility.
The amps he has used with that cab is a GK 700RB, a GK MB500 and a TC Electronic BH550. He only owns the TC now.
He had this speaker cab and the GK MB500 at a friends home where he rehearsed in a small office a few times and it performed flawlessly - even at the last rehearsal they had which was over a year ago. He then brought it home and hadn't used it since.
We pulled it out at the weekend and one woofer rubs.
We just checked the woofer out to see if the heat helped and it is definitely better than before but we can still hear some subtle noise. I might try again to see if I can clear it.
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Most "bass amp" speakers have stiff enough suspensions to not get torn up from excursion below Fb (box tuning) and high excursion tends to cool the voice coil, and the second harmonic distortion makes us believe that the fundamental is there even when it is almost non-existant.
Check that the amp is not putting out a bit of DC voltage, it takes surprisingly little to roast a voice coil, or heat it to the point that the former deforms or blisters.
I just remembered something and went looking for this thread from the A&H QU forum from a year ago:
https://community.allen-heath.com/forums/topic/ab168-pp-light
DC leak is mentioned here and I wonder if the 2 are related - as I said before he has used the TC Electronic amp with the GK cab.
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Today I ordered the Broughton HPF pedal. Thanks for the advice Patrick and everyone else too.
I'll get Chris to try out the woofer later today to see if there is any evidence of coil rub after the heat application...
I’ve been playing with the Broughton high and Low pass filter pedal. In my case I’m using to tighten up the lows and preserve the 50hz range for the kick and for a slope off at 1k...
Aiming at a Motown / Stacks ‘as recorded’ vibe. Nice pedal, super clean / clear.
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I just remembered something and went looking for this thread from the A&H QU forum from a year ago:
https://community.allen-heath.com/forums/topic/ab168-pp-light
DC leak is mentioned here and I wonder if the 2 are related - as I said before he has used the TC Electronic amp with the GK cab.
I remember that topic.
Art brought up a good suggestion.
To check the amp for DC just put a VOM on the DC setting, if it has a range setting put it on one of the lower ranges, hopefully you do not need to move it to a higher voltage range.
Open up the speakon connector and measure across 1+ and 1-.
You will most likely something in the sub one volt reading .0XXX maybe .XXX. If you get into the solid two volts and higher I would say something is going on with the amp.
Check it with the amp disconnected from the speaker and connected to the speaker to see you get a different reading.
Also just watch the speaker cones and see if they move when you connect the amp. If they move at all and stay in a forward or backward position to any degree that is not a good sign!
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Seems like there are two different problems going on here.
One, a truly "blown" speaker where the coil gets fried and is electrically open.
Two, a warped cone causing voice coil rub. That can be from any matter of storage the cab has been subjected to. That you were able to "warp" it back in front of a heater suggests this happened. There are some reconer people who can cleverly wet a cone and hit it with a heat gun and get rid of coil rub. Not that I'd trust that driver for long, but for a starving musician...
GK has been making some really great lightweight cabinets recently. I was helping a guy load recently who had these 2-12 boxes and they felt like they were empty cardboard boxes to pick up. Sounded awesome as well. Bass amplification has undergone such a technology upheaval in the last few years that anything 10 years old is best sold to someone who hasn't caught up.
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Seems like there are two different problems going on here.
One, a truly "blown" speaker where the coil gets fried and is electrically open.
Two, a warped cone causing voice coil rub. That can be from any matter of storage the cab has been subjected to. That you were able to "warp" it back in front of a heater suggests this happened. There are some reconer people who can cleverly wet a cone and hit it with a heat gun and get rid of coil rub. Not that I'd trust that driver for long, but for a starving musician...
GK has been making some really great lightweight cabinets recently. I was helping a guy load recently who had these 2-12 boxes and they felt like they were empty cardboard boxes to pick up. Sounded awesome as well. Bass amplification has undergone such a technology upheaval in the last few years that anything 10 years old is best sold to someone who hasn't caught up.
Yes I shouldn't use the expression blown really and should be more specific.
The GK brand...Chris has always owned nice equipment, guitars, amps, cabs, pedals etc and that has often come with hefty price tag. However, when he came across the GK stuff about 9-10 tears ago, he absolutely loved the tone. This GK cab ( when working), his neo 410 and the even less expensive Backline series he owned in the past has all sounded really good. We haven't had any issues with any of the other cabs he has owned - just this one.
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The driver still rubs a bit.
Question due to my ignorance regarding these things....
Why does the woofer exhibit scratching noise when applying pressure ONLY if connected? When I disconnect the wires and remove woofer there is no rubbing.
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Could be that the frame is warping a little as you tighten the screws.
Just to be 100% clear, are you reporting this:
- Driver in cab with wires connected => rubs
- Driver out of cab, disconnected => fine
If so, I'm almost certain that you're warping the frame a little when tightening the screws up. Not sure how many there are, but here's how I do it for eight:
- Put all screws into holes
- Tighten on a low torque setting (usually just 1-2/10 on the electric screwdriver), to get the gasket to compress a little. When doing this, do screws in order: 1, 5, 3, 7, 2, 6, 4, 8 - with the screws numbered by going around the circle.
- Repeat same pattern as you go to full torque.
That applies pressure reasonably evenly, and should keep the frame from warping. If you want to double check, you can run a low-frequency sine tone through the woofer as you tighten the screws. If you suddenly hear scraping, loosen that screw and try a different one first.
Chris
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Could be that the frame is warping a little as you tighten the screws.
Just to be 100% clear, are you reporting this:
- Driver in cab with wires connected => rubs
- Driver out of cab, disconnected => fine
If so, I'm almost certain that you're warping the frame a little when tightening the screws up. Not sure how many there are, but here's how I do it for eight:
- Put all screws into holes
- Tighten on a low torque setting (usually just 1-2/10 on the electric screwdriver), to get the gasket to compress a little. When doing this, do screws in order: 1, 5, 3, 7, 2, 6, 4, 8 - with the screws numbered by going around the circle.
- Repeat same pattern as you go to full torque.
That applies pressure reasonably evenly, and should keep the frame from warping. If you want to double check, you can run a low-frequency sine tone through the woofer as you tighten the screws. If you suddenly hear scraping, loosen that screw and try a different one first.
Chris
I know this sounds weird but I don't even have to put the screws in. If I simply lay the woofer in the cab loosely but connected, it rubs. If I lay the woofer in the same way without connecting up - no rub. I am confused. I just did it again 3 times so I know I'm not going mad.
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I juts took a video showing this but not sure how to upload... let me try.
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Doesn't work - sorry
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That sounds like the spider on the speaker is worn out
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And the speaker leads from the terminals are not blocked or restricted in any way
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And I'm sure you make sure the speaker leads from the terminals are not blocked or restricted in any way
There is a lot of room in there and the wires have good length. Nothing is in the way at all and it is a simple reconnect/ disconnect and drop in.
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That sounds like the spider on the speaker is worn out
How does that happen? The speaker has had very little use.
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Heat ,over Excursion, maybe questionable assembly when it was new.
who knows but it does happen doesn't take much to get it out of line enough to touch and rub.
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Heat ,over Excursion, maybe questionable assembly when it was new.
who knows but it does happen doesn't take much to get it out of line enough to touch and rub.
So same reasons as before then. Could just be from low end excursion, DC leakage or simply 'another bad woofer from new...... dear 'o dear....
I give up and I'm gonna get the replacement. I (Chris) can't use as is and can't sell as is very easily either.
Hopefully we will get a little cash over the cost of the replacement and call it quits on this.
From what I can tell though these neo210 cabs are still quite well liked and sought after as they are no longer made so I am wondering if selling as is might be decent option. Some folks might want to undertake the repair/replacement themselves...
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I have ordered a replacement Paragon. GK tells me the 'c' suffix version is still the correct part.
Checking out eBay and others, the neo 210 angled design is quite rare and when one comes up for sale, it sells holding its value quite well. So putting another $100 into it isn't the worst thing in the world I suppose - especially if we get a few years of use out of it. If we choose to sell it, it shouldn't hang around too long either.
The rep at GK told me there was a bad batch of 10" neo woofers manufactured but it was later than the one we have according to the serial #. I am not so sure that ours didn't come from a bad batch also but its moot now I suppose as both woofers will be non original replacements. Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
I will get around to checking out the TC Electronic amp for DC leak...
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I remember that topic.
Art brought up a good suggestion.
To check the amp for DC just put a VOM on the DC setting, if it has a range setting put it on one of the lower ranges, hopefully you do not need to move it to a higher voltage range.
Open up the speakon connector and measure across 1+ and 1-.
You will most likely something in the sub one volt reading .0XXX maybe .XXX. If you get into the solid two volts and higher I would say something is going on with the amp.
Check it with the amp disconnected from the speaker and connected to the speaker to see you get a different reading.
Also just watch the speaker cones and see if they move when you connect the amp. If they move at all and stay in a forward or backward position to any degree that is not a good sign!
Mike... I got around (finally) to testing this amp for DC v leakage but I am not quite sure what I am doing to be honest- I have only ever really used my meter for connectivity so I am a bit unsure of how to do this properly.
If I set the meter at '2' on the DC v side and measure across +1 and -1, I get a reading of .007
Does that sound right?
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Mike... I got around (finally) to testing this amp for DC v leakage but I am not quite sure what I am doing to be honest- I have only ever really used my meter for connectivity so I am a bit unsure of how to do this properly.
If I set the meter at '2' on the DC v side and measure across +1 and -1, I get a reading of .007
Does that sound right?
I take the "2" setting was the lower 2 volt range on the meter.
The "James Bond" .007 reading is fine.
There's a very slim chance a pedal or the output of an active bass is pass DC to the amp but that most likely would be taken care with blocking caps on the input circuit.
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I take the "2" setting was the lower 2 volt range on the meter.
The "James Bond" .007 reading is fine.
There's a very slim chance a pedal or the output of an active bass is pass DC to the amp but that most likely would be taken care with blocking caps on the input circuit.
Actually the lowest is 200m. That reading is 6.8.....which makes sense.
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Can I check the DI output in a similar manner?
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Can I check the DI output in a similar manner?
Yes, check for voltage across pins 2 & 3 and then across pin 1 & 2 and pins 1 & 3
The 2 volt range setting will be fine to start.
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Yes, check for voltage across pins 2 & 3 and then across pin 1 & 2 and pins 1 & 3
The 2 volt range setting will be fine to start.
Thanks for your help Mike.
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New woofer installed, Broughton HPF used in line and VOILA! Everything sounds good again - happy hubby.
Thanks everyone.
I have always wanted to try my hand at re-coning. I watched a few videos a while back and it takes quite a skill and some patience to do it right. I have a couple of drivers in my attic that I could experiment on ( yes - the 2 GK 10" woofers) - I think it would be fun.
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New woofer installed, Broughton HPF used in line and VOILA! Everything sounds good again - happy hubby.
Thanks everyone.
I have always wanted to try my hand at re-coning. I watched a few videos a while back and it takes quite a skill and some patience to do it right. I have a couple of drivers in my attic that I could experiment on ( yes - the 2 GK 10" woofers) - I think it would be fun.
Just be prepared to find glue in places you would never expect by the time you're done.. ::)
Chris.
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Just be prepared to find glue in places you would never expect by the time you're done.. ::)
Chris.
Gosh - I won't ask ;)