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[Matthew Whitman]

Hello all,

Here is the cart I am looking at: https://assets.tripplite.com/product-pdfs/en/dmcs60100xx.pdf. Please feel free to comment on it, as it and the TV will be moved around a lot, taken on elevators, used outside, etc. I'm hoping it's sturdy enough.

I need recommendations, please, for a TV around 90" to be used for presentations and other events. We are a multi-use facility that hosts everything from small conferences to concerts. We have a large video wall in our concert space, but I need a mobile TV for when we have smaller events in other areas.

I would like to keep it around $2,000 if possible. Thanks.

[Dave Garoutte]

I doubt if you'll find a screen that has sufficient output for outdoor use within your budget.
Here's an example.
sylvoxtv.com

[Tim Weaver]

Pretty much any consumer TV you find will be fine.

The thing I'd try to research is how easy the remote is to use and whether it reverts back to an ad-driven menu when nothings happening. We have a bunch that do that (in a church) and it kind of blows. Not to mention I like to put the TV on the proper input when setting up but by the time I have the computer ready to go the TV has already switched back to the Ad menu.

[Brian Jojade]

+1 on Dave about the outdoor use.  Typical TVs are around 400 nits, and look great indoors with the lights off. Some will advertise 'peak' nits, which with LED backlighting means they can temporarily light up a section of the screen. That helps with dynamic range in your dark room, but doesn't help outdoors. It's tough to know exactly how they market their brightness, as it's not a common spec descriptor.

Anyway, for something that will truly work outdoors, getting into the 2000 nits or more is pretty much needed. Dimmer TVs will be barely visible if kept in the shade, and useless in direct sun.

For indoors, most TVs are going to offer similar functionality.  Some are more fragile than others, especially at the larger sizes.  A cart with a frame that the TV sits in offers much more protection, especially when the elevator doors close unexpectedly.

Getting a stand with some extra weight at the base isn't a bad idea, and as large of wheels as you can get.

And yes, knowing how they work with the remote so that it's not a bunch of frustration wading through menus to get the darned thing to work.  I would attach a retractable line to the remote as well so that it's ALWAYS with the TV. Include a 2nd one so it can be used away if absolutely needed.

[Steve-White]

Going in and out of elevators and outside, door thresholds and other transitions - you will want to outfit it with much larger diameter casters.  7-10" wheel size will take a lot of strain off of everything including the TV.

[Caleb Dueck]

If it's going to be used outdoors, agree that typical consumer displays wash out too easily.

In the past we used ATA style pull-over cases with extra large wheels, and ascender type mounts.  Wheel into place, pull off the top cover, raise, connect cables, and go.  Most custom case makers can build them for you, but the cost starts a bit over $2k last I priced them out.   Building them isn't hard; designing a good case for exactly what you need is the hard part. 

Some sort of shock mitigation is important, especially for consumer grade displays, as is thermal management. 

[Steve Ferreira]

How about a case with electric/manual lift?

[Jordan Wolf]

How about a case with electric/manual lift?

We call those a “jack-in-the-box” case.

[ProSoundWeb Community]