Mac Kerr wrote on Sat, 17 July 2010 13:23 |
Maybe Ivan could comment on how they might work in this configuration, but 8 Danley DTS10s across the front of your stage would add a 16" deep thrust that you could use for a monitor stand, or whatever else you might need a little more stage depth, and if they are available in mirror image pairs would let you couple the horn mouths together as 4 pairs across 40' of stage width, each pair being 10' wide. You are not likely to find subs that go lower in frequency that also have the high output you want. You will need 8 amp channels that can supply about 1500W to 2000W into 4Ω to power them. A couple of Lab Gruppen 10000Qs should do the trick. Since the minimum impedance is below 3Ω within the useful range you probably do not want to use amps loaded down to 2Ω/ch, or amps bridged into 4Ω.
Mac
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That is a good idea, but while the DTS10 is great for a home theatre, I don't feel it would be real good for the usage he is looking for. It would give him a lot of depth-but would likely not give him the "ounch" he is looking for.
I would say (in the Danley lineup) that the TH412 or new DBH218 (not on website yet-but is available) would be better choices. The TH812 would be the best choice, but does not fit the height requirement.
His statement of Lowest and loudest is really hard to qualify.
What is "low"? If he considers low to be 10Hz, then yes the DTS10 is going to really hard to beat and is pretty much the only commerical choice (that I am aware of).
Of couse if his definition of "low" is around 1 or 2 Hz (that is getting pretty low if you ask me
) about the only choice is the Thigpen rotating fan. But the size requirements would be a real problem-unless he can go really wide to build a large room to put the fan in.
If he only to go to 7 hz, then the Keith Yates "Blunt Force Trama" would be a good choice.
But if low is 30hz, then other choices start to open up. Low means different things to different people.
As you go lower and lower-it takes more and more output can capability.
Given the same "parameters" you generally pay a 9dB/oct price for extension. That is-if you need to go anohter octave lower (and still stay flat) the sensitivity drops around 9dB in the upper bands.
You can't just keep going lower and keep the same sensitivity-unless something else starts to change-such as cabinet size-driver count etc.
So when choosing a sub-you get one that only goes as low as you really need it-so that it will be as loud as possible.