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[Michael Hogeland]

Ok guys, probably a stupidly newb question coming your way, but the lounge is the place for it right?  (I did a search for my question, but couldn't find anyone talking about it)

I've been running sound for my band for a couple years now, nothing fancy, (2) 3,000w amps powering 4 monitors, 2 mains, 2 subs.  I'd been using the 2442x mixer by Behringer and have upgraded to the XR18.  Well, the rack I had everything in was a slant top to facilitate the 2442x mixer.

With the new XR18, I wanted to upgrade the amp rack as well.  I was gifted a 20U rolling rack (OVERKILL), but since I'm already hauling all the gear in a trailer these days, it really doesn't bother me to have the extra weight or size.  Figured I might be able to store some of my other gear in the rack. 

So, my rack consists of 2 inukes, my XR18, and a Furman for power.  But that's about it.... 

I want to add some drawers, maybe a shelf for the tablet, and maybe even a pull out shelf for a laptop.  Most of this is self explanatory stuff, though I wonder about where to place my router, does it need to find its way outside the rack during use? 

My main question though is, if I'm using the drawers to store cables, would I need to give it some support from the rear of the rack, or from below?  Or would the front mounting screws be enough?  We're probably talking 20-30 lbs of cables that would end up in one of the 4U drawers.  I've got the drawer on order, so maybe that would be answered in the pamphlet that comes with the drawer (20lb limit or something?) - but in the meantime I'm trying to plan the set-up. 

Another good discussion - what do you keep in YOUR racks?  Amps and mixers are obvious, but what else?  Do you use a shelf for something you find extremely convenient?  Drawers for microphones?  Give me some thoughts since I have around 12U of extra space. 

[Jay Marr]

I have some rack cases in my basement, all full of rack drawers, and I fill them with cables.  I've only screwed in from the front and have not had an issue yet. 
Some 4u drawers are filled with speaker cable, so pretty heavy.

Putting a router on a rack shelf is obviously an easy win.

In times where I've had extra space in my PA rack, I've put some of my personal gear in there too.
My wireless Mic and IEM bases, and even my 2 space Fractal Axe FX for my guitar rig.

If weight is not an issue, then I would be trying to consolidate as much as I could in there.

[Michael Hogeland]

Aye, consolidating a bunch of my extra "bags" is my first priority.  Power bag, speaker cables, mic cables, you get the picture.

I'm the trumpet player, so my own gear can't really camp out in there, well aside from my wireless receiver which I had already planned on trying to find a way to keep it mounted inside.  I didn't buy the rack kit for my Shure, but I'm sure I can either find a way, or find the rack-kit to purchase somewhere. 

[Chris Hindle]

My main question though is, if I'm using the drawers to store cables, would I need to give it some support from the rear of the rack, or from below?  Or would the front mounting screws be enough?  We're probably talking 20-30 lbs of cables that would end up in one of the 4U drawers.  I've got the drawer on order, so maybe that would be answered in the pamphlet that comes with the drawer (20lb limit or something?) - but in the meantime I'm trying to plan the set-up. 

I'd support the drawer rails from the back too.
20 or 30 lbs of gack bouncing around in the back of a truck can put some pretty serious leverage on those front rack screws, the frame of the drawer, and the rack rails themselves.
Chris.

[Michael Hogeland]

Ok Chris, then the question is....how?

I can likely install a second set of rails on the back side of the rack, but will the drawer have the ability to connect up to that?  Or am I missing something extremely simple?

[randy amos]

Something like these?

http://www.audiopile.net/ERD

[Erik Jerde]

Ok Chris, then the question is....how?

I can likely install a second set of rails on the back side of the rack, but will the drawer have the ability to connect up to that?  Or am I missing something extremely simple?

I suppose it would depend on what drawer you're using.  The Middle Atlantic heavy duty series looks to all be rated for a 50# static load.  Like Chris said, bouncing down the road changes things there.  The Middle Atlantic drawers do not have a rear support option so you'd have to roll your own.  The easiest way is if you can put a set of rails just before the drawer ends and then just put a lacing bar in under the drawer to support the rear.  If your thermal requirements for the amps allows everything to be stacked without any spacing then you just support the drawers on top of the drawers/equipment below.

You could also look for rear support for things like UPS's that are sold separately.  You'd have to do some work to figure out where to mount them and then do some drill and tap work all while making sure you don't interfere with the drawer operation. 

Buying quality drawers is going to be more important with a heavy load.  They're much less likely to have problems due to cheap slides and bad bearings.

Personally since it's complicated I'd probably just let it ride and keep an eye on things.  If I started to see indicators of torque issues from bouncing then I'd figure out a support system.

[Dave Garoutte]

Many rack cases have rails in the back also.
Extra support for heavy things like drawers and amps.
Also you can mount things facing the back too, if things are short enough.

[Michael Hogeland]

Thank you Randy!  Those look perfect.

Erik, great advice.  'Wait and see' works for me.  I'd have the drawers mounted all the way to the bottom if I could to facilitate less stress, but it's an inset rack - so there's a 4-6" lip around the bottom of the rack for the top to fit over and latch.  Big top box instead of front/back removal.  A drawer mounted on the very bottom wouldn't be accessible unless I took the main rack box OUT of the caster base.  And I'd like to keep from doing that at shows. 

Dave - this one does not.  Though there are indications that it might have at some point and they've just been removed.  (it's a used rack....very used in fact.  I'm replacing the front rails because they were tapped out to an odd size, I can just as easily replace the rear ones. 

[Debbie Dunkley]

I have found that steel drawers themselves are quite heavy. For that reason I have always tried to use the SKB poly drawers where I can to keep the rack weight down. They have been great - nice and deep - 4u -and strong (unsure of weight capacity).
They stopped making them a few years ago (shame) but I see them used from time to time