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Sound Reinforcement - Forums for Live Sound Professionals - Your Displayed Name Must Be Your Real Full Name To Post In The Live Sound Forums => AC Power and Grounding => Topic started by: Matt Greiner on June 09, 2019, 01:05:22 AM
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I have wired up many of the range plugs (14-30 or 14-50) and have always been concerned with the connections and how close they have to be to each other inside the right angle plug, especially being bare. I just wonder if there is something that I could use to help protect those connections?
Could you use some silicone caulk inside the head to help insulate between the different connections? I get that by doing that, you are making it essentially a one time use connection. Or is there another solution?
Just trying to limit the potential risk.
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I have wired up many of the range plugs (14-30 or 14-50) and have always been concerned with the connections and how close they have to be to each other inside the right angle plug, especially being bare. I just wonder if there is something that I could use to help protect those connections?
Could you use some silicone caulk inside the head to help insulate between the different connections? I get that by doing that, you are making it essentially a one time use connection. Or is there another solution?
Just trying to limit the potential risk.
Assemble according to the diagram and use the wire stripping gauge molded into the connector body. Torque set screws to spec.
In a couple of months come back and open the connector and re-torque the set screws.
Over the last 50 years of my life I've not had a 14-50 short internally. We have a couple of clients that have them and keep an adapter or two but not for routine use.
Matt, is there a back story to this?
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Assemble according to the diagram and use the wire stripping gauge molded into the connector body. Torque set screws to spec.
In a couple of months come back and open the connector and re-torque the set screws.
Over the last 50 years of my life I've not had a 14-50 short internally. We have a couple of clients that have them and keep an adapter or two but not for routine use.
Matt, is there a back story to this?
I have a number of those too and find them an utter PITA. The Hubbell plugs are worlds better, unfortunately they are 4x the price.
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I have a number of those too and find them an utter PITA. The Hubbell plugs are worlds better, unfortunately they are 4x the price.
Haha. There's likely a reason for that price.......
"Ya wants da best, yas gotta pays."
Chris.
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Assemble according to the diagram and use the wire stripping gauge molded into the connector body. Torque set screws to spec.
In a couple of months come back and open the connector and re-torque the set screws.
Over the last 50 years of my life I've not had a 14-50 short internally. We have a couple of clients that have them and keep an adapter or two but not for routine use.
Matt, is there a back story to this?
No incidents, no excitement, no sparks have flown.
I have been making the switch over to California Hubbell's for my systems, however, a lot of the venue's I work with only have the 14-50 receptacles available for tie in so I have several adapters that I keep around. This was a short notice need, so I did not have time to order an actual Hubbell, and had to use what the big box store had in stock. (I think it was a Legrand.) The molded caps of the plugs do seem to lack the sturdiness I would like to see.
I have a number of those too and find them an utter PITA. The Hubbell plugs are worlds better, unfortunately they are 4x the price.
Perhaps this is why I never felt this way in the past, as I got authentic Hubbell's from the local electrical supply house. Since they are only open bankers hours, it wasn't an option this time.
I was just pondering the silicone, as I've seen it used (or a substance similar) to hold different parts of circuit boards in place inside some of my amps.
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Perhaps this is why I never felt this way in the past, as I got authentic Hubbell's from the local electrical supply house. Since they are only open bankers hours, it wasn't an option this time.
I've found a HUGE difference in quality and ease of assembly between the cheapies and the name brands like Hubbell.
My one thought is if you feel that you need something in addition to what the plug mfgr provides either you're doing it wrong or you're using the wrong (read cheap/crappy) part.
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Making an adapter in a pinch, I'd probably opt for a preassembled molded pigtail-I'm sure the big box should have them for ovens.
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Making an adapter in a pinch, I'd probably opt for a preassembled molded pigtail-I'm sure the big box should have them for ovens.
Agree. The molded assemblies are better than the crappy Eagle or Leviton angle plugs that have really flimsy strain reliefs and look they're made from 1940s materials. I used a molded plug for my occasional-use adapter. --Frank
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Is there UL-listed silicone sealant with a specified dielectric strength? If so, does it require a specific curing time in free air to achieve that strength?
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Is there UL-listed silicone sealant with a specified dielectric strength? If so, does it require a specific curing time in free air to achieve that strength?
What strength do you need?
All you are doing is preventing some wiggle that should not even happen if the assembly workmanship is good.
Just go buy a molded plug assembly @ home despot and attach your favorite female connector. Done.
An ok one is $12 and a good one is $25 and it includes a 5’ cord.