Frederik Rosenkj
Ivan Beaver wrote on Tue, 20 July 2010 16:09 |
Frederik Rosenkj
You got me there . I just "assumed"-you know what happens when you do that.
I have the files for a single-a double and a 3 wide array. But I don't think I can attach files here.
I can send them out as an attachment to a regular Email-or wait untill he gets back.
Sorry for jumping the gun-so to speak.
Hello,
just wondered if anyone could guide me as to why one SM60f speaker still keeps going off when pushed a little,its the same box all the time.Gigged tonight and still keeps doing it,checked cables all on neutrick speak on connectors,wired with van damme tour grade cable,checked amp,connectors.So am puzzled??????????? reguards Leon
leon garrity wrote on Wed, 28 July 2010 19:59 |
Hello,
just wondered if anyone could guide me as to why one SM60f speaker still keeps going off when pushed a little,its the same box all the time.Gigged tonight and still keeps doing it,checked cables all on neutrick speak on connectors,wired with van damme tour grade cable,checked amp,connectors.So am puzzled??????????? reguards Leon
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Have you swapped cables-just in case.
I would label the cabinet-the cable and the amp channel that is having the problem and then swap out one of them at a time.
DO NOT change more than one thing at a time-as you will have no idea which of the parts you changed may have the problem.
Is it the entire cabinet going out? or just a particular freq band (lows-mids or highs)?
If it is the entire cabinet then remove the jack plate and see if there are any loose wires there. That and the other end of the wires at the circuit board are the only things that could affect the entire cabinet.
If it is a particular freq band-then there is the possibility of a bad/cracked connection or defective part on the circuit board.
Does this happen just when pushed hard or at any volume?
You could try putting some noise or music into the cabinet and pounding on the sides with your fist or a rubber mallet, and see if the sound cuts out any.
The first step to any troubleshooting to be able to recreat the problem-so you know what you are dealing with.
That would indicate a loose part or connection.
Hi Ivan its the whole cabinet going off,then back on when its being worked shall we say its an intermittent fault, will check tomorrow and report back,its strange that its the same box. reguards Leon
Only when it gets pushed a little,with 3 drivers being in the box there must be a lot of internal pressure,especially when driven hard as also the boxes do get warm from the heat created,the sound apart from the drop outs is still amazing just its annoying.
reguards Leon
Have you tried swapping JUST the speaker cable from one top to the other so you know that it is not the amplifier channel or upstream?
Yeah mike done all that,gonna check internal to see if any loose connections.
regauards Leon
Hello,
i have checked for loose connections and can't see any on the board,i was very careful when i checked to make sure nothing untoward was disturbed, so im puzzled even moreso.
reguards Leon
Well gigged tonight and the problem is still happening the box when pushed goes off intermittingly,the other cabinet is fine.The whole box just drops out then back on, i know its not being pushed too hard as it is fine until that point,my only thought is it is the board in someway? the cables are fine,connecting XLR's are all correct,i have the correct crossover settings applied.So if anyone has any ideas please let me know how to solve or how to remedy the situation.
reguards Leon
leon garrity wrote on Fri, 30 July 2010 18:18 | Well gigged tonight and the problem is still happening the box when pushed goes off intermittingly,the other cabinet is fine.The whole box just drops out then back on, i know its not being pushed too hard as it is fine until that point,my only thought is it is the board in someway? the cables are fine,connecting XLR's are all correct,i have the correct crossover settings applied.So if anyone has any ideas please let me know how to solve or how to remedy the situation.
reguards Leon
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Sounds like it may be a cold (or missed) solder joint on the crossover input, or a cracked trace just after the input.
Cracked trace would be more likely, as high power could cause vibrations which could flex the board, while cold or missed solder joints usually crap out at low, rather than high power.
Look for signs of arcing near the crossover input, a magnifying glass helps.
Im not an engineer and dont want to void my guarantee so to speak,its definatly got to be the board as everything is fine until it gets warm and pushed a little.
reguards Leon
leon garrity wrote on Fri, 30 July 2010 20:46 | Im not an engineer and dont want to void my guarantee so to speak,its definatly got to be the board as everything is fine until it gets warm and pushed a little.
reguards Leon
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I still say since it happens a lot less that it still works-the possible problem could be in the crimped connections on the NL4's.
Of course they are going to look fine-because it works most of the time.
I doubt it is on the input trace (although it would have to be on the input-as the whole cabinet cuts out) as those are pretty wide (the board is my design/layout) and go right to the various crossover circuits.
It could be the soldered connection on the input to the board.
Leno could try just heating those up with a soldering iron and "reflowing" them.
I will pass this on to the customer service guys at Danley.
Hello Ivan,
I removed the NL4 panel to check the spades more thoroughly,i removed the spades individualy from the NL4's and gave the wires a gentle pull,all were ok except for the positive wires on the parralled NL4 it came off the spade quite easily,i then gave the rest of the spades a harder pull and they remained intact. So this is most likely the problem as you stated in your last message,it wasn't crimped in quite good enough and i think when it was gettin warm and a certain amount of internal pressure was building up within the cainet it was breaking contact from the spade. I couldn't get the wires to go back into the spade as it has a steel ring around the spade where the cables slot in so i had to solder them onto the NL4,i did it very carefully and made sure it was a very good contact,also that it was not in contact with the minus spade adjacent to the positive. I then put the plate back in situ,i then proceeded to check the board once more,all the connecting wires were fixed and from the little i know about crossover boards it looks intact. I think the NL4 was breaking contact as the whole cabinet was going off,I will run it up tonight at the venue and hopefully all should be fine.
kindest reguards Leon.
PS we had some comments off a drummer yesterday at the gig,saying the boxes sounded excellent and looked amazing.
Well used the SM60f this weekend at three different venues,still when i push the rig hard the cabinets are still going off. I have removed anything that could be the fault....
Patch panel removed....So to connect straight to the back of the amps with speaker cables. 32 amp distro unit removed to see whether my amps were overloading that and dropping out.I placed 2 amps on one extention four way.The other amp on another extention cable.Into seperate wall sockets. performing excellent until you pass a certain point then drop outs????????? In the EAW KF695 that i used to use there is a passive crossover that eats power and gets hot??????? could the crossover's in the SM60f get hot with too much power and shut off?????????
if i drop the level down slightly on the master faders then we get no dropouts.Now it cant be driver failure as they would just burn out.
Im putting a FP6400 Lab Gruppen on the subs = 2300@4ohms Im putting a FP3400 Lab gruppen on the tops = 1450@4ohms Im Putting a 4000c Lab gruppen on the SH100 -4 MLS 600 watts@8 ohms The subs seem content with the 6400 and dont bat an eyelid at the power but the tops when driven hard don't like it.
If say i dropped the amp that drives the tops to 1100 watts per side by cutting -2mls on the lab gruppen would that help??????
I currently have the crossover set at 90hz for both subs and tops on a 24db butterworth,would it be wise to raise the crossover point higher so that there isn't as much low energy going to the tops.
reguards Leon
Hi folks,
Could someone explain to me as im confused.
On the Danley website it says.....
SH100 300 watts continuous 600 watts program SM60f 800 watts continuous 1600 watts program TH115 1000 watts continuous 2000 watts program
now does this mean that the boxes can take the higher wattage?????
and also how do you get to the SPL of a box with lower power rating or the higher one,also i reckon im up at 105 db max on the tops which is well under the rating of 128 max output
reguards Leon
leon garrity wrote on Sun, 01 August 2010 20:23 | Well used the SM60f this weekend at three different venues,still when i push the rig hard the cabinets are still going off. I have removed anything that could be the fault....
Patch panel removed....So to connect straight to the back of the amps with speaker cables. 32 amp distro unit removed to see whether my amps were overloading that and dropping out.I placed 2 amps on one extention four way.The other amp on another extention cable.Into seperate wall sockets. performing excellent until you pass a certain point then drop outs????????? In the EAW KF695 that i used to use there is a passive crossover that eats power and gets hot??????? could the crossover's in the SM60f get hot with too much power and shut off?????????
if i drop the level down slightly on the master faders then we get no dropouts.Now it cant be driver failure as they would just burn out.
Im putting a FP6400 Lab Gruppen on the subs = 2300@4ohms Im putting a FP3400 Lab gruppen on the tops = 1450@4ohms Im Putting a 4000c Lab gruppen on the SH100 -4 MLS 600 watts@8 ohms The subs seem content with the 6400 and dont bat an eyelid at the power but the tops when driven hard don't like it.
If say i dropped the amp that drives the tops to 1100 watts per side by cutting -2mls on the lab gruppen would that help??????
I currently have the crossover set at 90hz for both subs and tops on a 24db butterworth,would it be wise to raise the crossover point higher so that there isn't as much low energy going to the tops.
reguards Leon
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So what has changed? Up untill now you have been saying that it was ONE cabinet that was having teh problem. Now it is both?
Are they going out at the same time? or different times?
Is the downtime always the same length? or does it vary from time to time?
Yes there is a passive crossover in the cabinet-but there is no protection and there is a completely seperate path to each of the 3 freq bands (once the main wires get onto the board). So the odds that "something" in each one of the paths is somehow opening up/failing all at the same time does not exist.
If it was heat related-then it would take time to cool off and would not be out for just a few seconds.
And the parts inside the crossover would be damaged and the cabinet would not "come back to life".
Have you tried a different amplifier? It now seems to point in that direction. Have you also tried different loudspeaker cables? There could be an intermittant in them. But in both would be in question.
You could try a little bit higher crossover point, as that would have less bass going to the cabinet-but the level of the mids and highs would be the same-and those are being affected as well.
Hello Ivan, i have just been reading my manuals for my amps and the only thing left that could be the problem is if the clip limiters are in on the amps?
When i used the EAW the
3400 was used on the mids where i would never reach clip point,but with the Danleys i use this amp on the tops full range and when run hard it might be limiting? so that might be the reason im hearing dropouts.Like ive said before it cant be damage to the boxes so its got to be something a little too straight forward which im missing?????????
because ive never run the amp up this high i would have never got to the point the asmps limiters would kick in??????
reguards Leon
leon garrity wrote on Sun, 01 August 2010 21:22 | Hello Ivan, i have just been reading my manuals for my amps and the only thing left that could be the problem is if the clip limiters are in on the amps?
When i used the EAW the
3400 was used on the mids where i would never reach clip point,but with the Danleys i use this amp on the tops full range and when run hard it might be limiting? so that might be the reason im hearing dropouts.Like ive said before it cant be damage to the boxes so its got to be something a little too straight forward which im missing?????????
because ive never run the amp up this high i would have never got to the point the asmps limiters would kick in??????
reguards Leon
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A limiter should not cut out the sound. It could be that the amp has a problem and is just shutting down for a short period of time. There is a good bit of protection built into modern amps. Maybe one of those is kicking in.
I get calls all the time in which people "think" there are problems with the loudspeakers. The reason is that the loudspeaker is the last thing in the chain and is the only place people can "hear" what is going on.
In just about every case-the problem is somewhere in the signal chain-a filter they didn't know was there-a limiter set wrong- a miswiring, oscillation in the system etc.
I have a current such problem on an install that reused 4 existing amps for the subs and it "appears" that the subs are the problem. But I don't think so, and a couple of hours of troubleshooting has still not produced any real answers. I will get back to it next week.
These things are not always easy to narrow down.
Hello Ivan,
Just checking something by you
does max voltage have reference to the danley speakers?
my amps give the following
fp3400 = 94 volts for the SM60f
fp6400 = 104 volts for the TH115
lab 1300c 56 volts for the SH100
Im just trying to know that im not pushing too much in to the boxes. When i used the EAW rig the UX8800 set the limiters automatically when you told the UX what the amps max voltage was,so it new how much to give to the drivers.
The max voltage falls into the limiter setting arena in which there is a lot of "it depends" and no real hard values.
94 volts is a tad over 2200 watts. That would be a bit much for the SM60F. Although it can take it as part of a signal with a full dynamic range.
Assuming the "max volts" is a peak limiter-I would set it around 80V (or a little bit lower-just to be safe-depending on program material)
If you have a slower attack limiter,(sometimes called a RMS limiter) I would set it around 50 Volts.
I would use 90V peak and 64V RMS for the TH115. But those could be set a tad higher-depending on program material.
Hello and thanks for the reply once again,
I took a look at the UX8800
the limiter was set to on, the threshold was 20dbv the attack was 1ms the release was 100ms the ratio was 8.1 the knee was hard
would i be better off turning it off as i dont know what to set it to?
kindest reguards Leon
leon garrity wrote on Mon, 02 August 2010 09:56 | Hello and thanks for the reply once again,
I took a look at the UX8800
the limiter was set to on, the threshold was 20dbv the attack was 1ms the release was 100ms the ratio was 8.1 the knee was hard
would i be better off turning it off as i dont know what to set it to?
kindest reguards Leon
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Depending on how the rest of the system is setup gain structure wise (amp level control) the limiter in the 880 is probably not doing anything anyway-not with a +20dBV threshold.
What does it show when you are playing music? Is it limiting?
Hello Ivan,
the UX is just showing -12 to -6 at peaks,so no limiting its just im trying to find the problem.
Leon
leon garrity wrote on Mon, 02 August 2010 16:16 | Hello Ivan,
the UX is just showing -12 to -6 at peaks,so no limiting its just im trying to find the problem.
Leon
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Have you tried a different output jack on the DSP? Have you swapped cables from the DSP to the amp?
All it takes is one connection that is not quite right to kill the signal.
Yes it can be hard to track down where it is in the chain.
I would put a constant source in (not a live band) and then beat-bang-bump-twist-yank etc on every cable and piece of gear and see if you can get it to happen.
Then start to track it down.
One of the first things is to be able to reproduce the problem. Then you have something to shoot for.
Hello folks,
well well well,i found the problemit was the limiters on the Lab gruppen amp,put a larger amp on the boxes and no problems,i put a Lab 4000c on them,the boxes albeit state 800/1600 but it takes it surprisingly well infact amazingly well,i didnt push it to where i would be giving the boxes 2100 watts @4 ohms.
Heres something for fun and just to show you how good Danleys are,in my time ive used different wedges....
EAW microwedge 12" D&B max 12 Turbosound. Overall the Microwedge is a fantastic wedge,designed by one of the worlds greatest engineers Dave the rat Levine.So wat i did i tried to see how the SH100 would fare as a wedge,all i can say is it kicked its ass. I gave the cabinets the same power,crossover slopes,signal you name it.Then i gave the microwedge the full power it needs 1000 watts @8ohms plus more ,YEAH ITS EAW so its greedy.Now you can bi-amp the MW but did a straight one amp on each no processing. Here is what i found,the SH100 is not only smoother,got better dispersion,louder,clearer,sweeter,it doesn't feed back as much. The tonal differance is night and day,im not trying to blow smoke up Danleys ass so to speak but any side by side comparison in my book speaks volumes.
OK here in simple terms......
The sh100 is half the price,weighs less,needs less power,doesnt need to be over processed to get the best out of it,sounds better,is easier to cable up as the connection plate on the MW is stupidly hidden.Im not anti EAW as there products are world class but im afraid Danley is just better.
also we had a guy who uses Turbosound and he came up and said "what the hell are those boxes" he said hed never heard any box perform like that.Now that made me smile....................................A LOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
leon garrity wrote on Sun, 08 August 2010 21:12 | Hello folks,
well well well,i found the problemit was the limiters on the Lab gruppen amp,put a larger amp on the boxes and no problems,i put a Lab 4000c on them,the boxes albeit state 800/1600 but it takes it surprisingly well infact amazingly well,i didnt push it to where i would be giving the boxes 2100 watts @4 ohms.
Heres something for fun and just to show you how good Danleys are,in my time ive used different wedges....
EAW microwedge 12" D&B max 12 Turbosound. Overall the Microwedge is a fantastic wedge,designed by one of the worlds greatest engineers Dave the rat Levine.So wat i did i tried to see how the SH100 would fare as a wedge,all i can say is it kicked its ass. I gave the cabinets the same power,crossover slopes,signal you name it.Then i gave the microwedge the full power it needs 1000 watts @8ohms plus more ,YEAH ITS EAW so its greedy.Now you can bi-amp the MW but did a straight one amp on each no processing. Here is what i found,the SH100 is not only smoother,got better dispersion,louder,clearer,sweeter,it doesn't feed back as much. The tonal differance is night and day,im not trying to blow smoke up Danleys ass so to speak but any side by side comparison in my book speaks volumes.
OK here in simple terms......
The sh100 is half the price,weighs less,needs less power,doesnt need to be over processed to get the best out of it,sounds better,is easier to cable up as the connection plate on the MW is stupidly hidden.Im not anti EAW as there products are world class but im afraid Danley is just better.
also we had a guy who uses Turbosound and he came up and said "what the hell are those boxes" he said hed never heard any box perform like that.Now that made me smile....................................A LOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I'm glad you found the problem-I'm even more sure you are .
The current Danley monitors (SHLPM-SH100M-SHVLPM) are pretty much identical to the SH100. They use the same horn-same driver and same crossover. Only the cabinet angles and other "cosmetic" things are different.
The SHLPM is not only the best looking in the bunch-but it also has a slightly better sound due to less reflections off of the floor. The angle of the horn and the distance from the floor are the reason.
Well, I thought this might be an appropriate thread to post this little "Danley Review" in.
I just received my two SH46s from Jeff Knorr of Cobrasound. They are in very good condition with padded covers.
Put them on my Yamaha TX5n amp and fired them up.
Wow. I was expecting a nice sounding speaker for sure, but this was way over my expectations. I fully understand why people are using these in home hifi-settings. Even flat they are brilliant for listening at moderate levels which is what I spent the first couple of hours doing and testing arrayability, which was almost as great as the SH50 - very impressive!
So it was certainly a nice surprise that this loud speaker has not sacrificed sound quality in any even remotely important way - on the contrary it's the best sounding PA speaker I've ever heard (besides probably the SH50 and SH96 which I've also heard but in a horrible room).
My reference, as some will know, is d&b Q7 which has been my main top for the last 5 years. They're not far behind but now for the first time they have been pushed off my personal 1st place pedestal for sheer sound quality. This I did not really expect. I'd describe the sound of the SH46 as every bit as pleasant and smooth as the Q7 but with an added "rawness" especially in the mids, that does not in any way mean "unpleasant" but just "honest" or "open". Punchy lows, fantastic mid range clarity - vocals and guitars just have a really special life, while the highs are super pleasing.
I expected the frequency response of the cabinet to be more skewed than it is. Like I said - for listening at moderate levels, I don't find it necessary to do anything to it, but when you start cranking it, you'll probably want to tame the mids. That being said this is NOT the mids problem that you often face with "rock and roll"-style cabinets where it's just driving the old ice pick in your ears and is either too hot or too low. Just pulling it back a little and all is well....or fantastic, rather.
But then it came time to test how loud this thing gets and everyone is always raving about this.
I won't say I was disappointed - it's more that I, once again, discovered what I knew all along - that d&b Q7s are no slouches. One SH46 on a Yamaha TX5n is quite precisely as loud as two Q7s (on one channel D12) which together are a bit smaller and lighter than a single SH46. And that IS loud.
So for the added weight you get a coherent coverage in one cabinet where the two Q7 obviously do overlap and phase around a bit, though this exact configuration is used in many high class venues in Denmark.
This was with recorded music in a pretty small space so I'm excited to see what will happen in larger places. It does, however, give me doubts about whether the SM60F will be able to replace the Q7s for mains. If the SH46 is "only" about 6 dB louder than the Q7...but I guess I'll have to wait and see about that one.
Hi Frederick,i do think that the SM60f would beat the Q7 maybe not in overall volume but purely as it is Synergy and the Q7 is not,i dont think that the Q7 can have as accurate pattern control or tonality,Im not just saying this but i think Danley boxes beat every mainstream speaker on the planet,i played the coal train which tom danley recorded and all i can say is what the hell???????????
your dealing with point source with Danley and with D&B your dealing with a high end conventional loudspeaker,im not knocking D&B as im a user of the product but with Danley its just pure sound...........Pure sound you can hear the source not the box, when i used D&B to me it was processed sound,very good but made to sound good,Danley just sound good. For years i had a sound in my head,what i wanted i didn't get it from EAW ,Turbosound,Nexo,D&B but when i use Danley i get the sound i want.Im no scientist but what Tom has created is above my thoughts of sound and what i percieve sound to be,i can say with hand on heart that its pure beautifullness,i go on stage with a belief for the first time.One thing it has awoken is this if the SM60f sounds this good what do SH50/60 soundlike????????????????????????????????
Another thing i would like to add is Stated max DB.....this box is 134db that box is 132 db, i ran one pair of KF695z with a pair of SB625 with over 10 k of lab amps on it and it comes no where near the output of what the Danleys do,we did a gig on sunday and it was pure ear candy............
Well, I have no doubt that they sound fantastic and the pattern control is awesome - but those are not really substitutes for output and I would like to keep the output I currently have.
Does anyone have a feeling if two SM60s put together would be as loud as one SH46, or how far from it it would be?
Frederik Rosenkj
I would never buy speakers in this class and then array them overlapping - then I'd have bought the wrong speaker. It was solely an attempt to get a feel for the output of the SM60F, now that I know that two arrayed Q7's are about equal to one SH46.
Does DSL keep any kind of records on where in Europe which products reside?
Hi frederick,
i asked the same question whether 2 SM60f would be louder than 1 KF695 and it aint about massive volume its coherent arrayability,albeit i do think that the SM60f when run as a system with TH115 is miles above the EAW rig i used. The SM60f is a third of the weight and size than the KF695. You have to also remember that certain manufacturers say a certain output but what they dont say which part of the box or frequency its performing at that not the whole box.
Frederik Rosenkj
Hello,
i need to know where i can get 2 spare diaphram's for the BMS 4538 as my singing partner kindly lent on the desk during soundcheck,pushed the sliders up......resulting in blown hi's on my SM60f.........i have removed the parts and the coils are as black as coal...........well miffed aint the word.Bass players should stick to being in the background and keep away from mixers...........................!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
leon garrity wrote on Fri, 03 September 2010 21:26 | Hello,
i need to know where i can get 2 spare diaphram's for the BMS 4538 as my singing partner kindly lent on the desk during soundcheck,pushed the sliders up......resulting in blown hi's on my SM60f.........i have removed the parts and the coils are as black as coal...........well miffed aint the word.Bass players should stick to being in the background and keep away from mixers...........................!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I would start with contacting local recone/speaker repair shops.
It would be best to get them in your area. Maybe check with the UK distributor for BMS.
Hi My first post in ages,
im puzzled at crossover filters?????????
which to use and why??????? Either Linkwitz or Butterworth at what db of slope??????
now if i set them both at say 75HZ so subs stop at 75 and tops dropout at 75,is that the point they do accuratley or does the DSP start the slope earlier because when i have programmed pilot for the UX8800 it looks like there is a hollow say a dip at crossover point.Do you cross say the mid tops at 75 and the subs a little higher to compensate for it????????
Also what is the point of taking the TH115 subs down to the recommended 25 HZ when realisticaly there is nothing down there worth hearing in my musical environment.
As you know i use the SM60 which has 4 drivers in if you include the dual concentric md/high driver.Im thinking of getting either the SH60 0r SH69.Now i agree that they will both give out 115 DB easily surley that with the larger cabs containing 2 times the drivers and larger drivers then there must be more physical energy coming out not db but energy,take a mini and a ferrari both do 70 mph but withat big engine you know its a meatier car.
Why is the SH60 and SH50 nearly 20LBs heavier but the SH69 is quite a lot more in cost? as this could be a deciding factor in purchase.
kind reguards Leon.
leon garrity wrote on Sun, 31 October 2010 09:00 | Hi My first post in ages,
im puzzled at crossover filters?????????
which to use and why??????? Either Linkwitz or Butterworth at what db of slope??????
now if i set them both at say 75HZ so subs stop at 75 and tops dropout at 75,is that the point they do accuratley or does the DSP start the slope earlier because when i have programmed pilot for the UX8800 it looks like there is a hollow say a dip at crossover point.Do you cross say the mid tops at 75 and the subs a little higher to compensate for it????????
Also what is the point of taking the TH115 subs down to the recommended 25 HZ when realisticaly there is nothing down there worth hearing in my musical environment.
As you know i use the SM60 which has 4 drivers in if you include the dual concentric md/high driver.Im thinking of getting either the SH60 0r SH69.Now i agree that they will both give out 115 DB easily surley that with the larger cabs containing 2 times the drivers and larger drivers then there must be more physical energy coming out not db but energy,take a mini and a ferrari both do 70 mph but withat big engine you know its a meatier car.
Why is the SH60 and SH50 nearly 20LBs heavier but the SH69 is quite a lot more in cost? as this could be a deciding factor in purchase.
kind reguards Leon.
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First of all the sound does not "stop" at the crossover point. It is a slope and the slope of the line is the rate of decay-12dB/octave-24dB/octave and so forth.
The crossover types generally describe what is happening around the "knee" of the crossover-and how well the filters combine-assuming a flat response loudspeaker (which does not exist) and equal amplitude (which also doesn't exist in most cases when talking about a sub and a full range box).
Also the electrical filter number (the ones in your DSP) and the ACOUSTICAL crossover point (where the cabinets actually "crossover" into one another are oten very different.
If anything I usually have what would look like a "gap" in the response and cross my full range boxes HIGHER than the sub crossover point. This is because the sub are generally run higher, so their acoustical crossover point is also higher.
And crossing over the full range boxes a bit higher takes some the bass heavy strain off of them.
You can certainly highpass the TH115's over higher, and you may be able to get a bit more out of them, due to not having to try and reproduce the lower freq that YOUR (other people will have different needs) music has.
The 25Hz point was choosen as it allows the cabinet to get down to it's lowest usable freq without having the crossover chopping it off.
Maybe 30 or 35Hz would be better for you. Give it a try. If you feel the bass is starting to "lack" then roll it down a bit. But I would not go below 25Hz.
Regarding the different cabinets SM60/SH60/SH50/SH69 etc.
There are differences. First of all the SH models mentioned will get louder than the SM60. THey also go lower in freq. That may or may not be important to you -since you use a sub-but to other who run them truly full range-it can be quite a difference.
You can boost the low freq on the SH models mentioned and get a lot more bass out of them. If you do that on the SM60, it will start to "bottom out", if pushed hard. But with more modest levels, some boosting can be fine to help "fill in" the lower freq.
The SH's also have a larger horn, which means pattern control down to a lower freq. That may or may not be important to you and your usages.
Regarding the weight, the SH50 and SH60 have more wood in the box, so it takes more weight. That is also why they go lower in freq than the SH69, because there is more internal air volume.
The extra cost is associated with the extra wood working (time & materials) that it takes to build the SH69. Getting the woofers to mount where they fit into the cabinet (without having to make the cabinet a good bit larger) was an interesting design-and it takes more to build it.
I must admit it was my idea to figure out how to get them where they needed to be.
Hope that answers the questions.
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