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Sound Reinforcement - Forums for Live Sound Professionals - Your Displayed Name Must Be Your Real Full Name To Post In The Live Sound Forums => The Basement => Topic started by: Bob Faulkner on May 20, 2018, 07:45:53 PM
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Anyone using LED flood lights to light up FOH and/or stage areas for load out (or load-in if early in the morning)?
I'm using a couple of these:
https://www.google.com/search?q=magnet+mount+LED+flood+lights+car&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwic5obxt5XbAhUEzVMKHeUxD8oQ_AUICygC&biw=1600&bih=757#imgrc=f9LsaxPbf-3-jM:
...though, these lights are incandescent.
When I load-out, I usually use both of these on one side of my van and trailer; they do a fair job of illuminating the area, but I'm needing more light. They have a fairly good horizontal coverage, but are not bright enough.
The lights I'm using plug into the cigarette lighters... I'm needing the same type, but in LED.
Anyone using LED lights for something like this? Interested in what you are using.
Thanks.
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We use the Milwaukee M12 LED floodlights which have a magnet base. The high AH batteries will last about an hour on full brightness and we can throw them up anywhere.
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We use the Milwaukee M12 LED floodlights which have a magnet base. The high AH batteries will last about an hour on full brightness and we can throw them up anywhere.
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Thanks for the suggestion. I considered battery powered, but with the length of our load-out times (around 3 hours), I'm thinking 12v may still be the only choice; I prefer battery for the convenience of moving the lights around where needed, but the short duration of time (due to the battery) may be limiting.
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One of the biggest problems I've found with 12V LED "flood lights" is that they aren't flood lights. Most of them cast no larger than a 30 degree wide beam. I'd like at least a 90 degree beam.
I think they do this to make them seem brighter (and they are, within their narrow coverage area), and "reach further." I don't need my flood lights to light up 673 feet away, I only need them to light up sufficiently maybe 40 feet away at most.
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I have one of the Milwaukee M18 rocket lights:
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Lighting/Tower-Lights
I have the 2130 version which runs 4 hours at full power (2000 lumens) or 8 hours at half power on a 5Ah battery. Goes 7' tall, great form factor. This is the unidirectional version. They have the 2135 that has three rotatable heads that you can aim for 360° coverage if you desire.
Milwaukee is killing it with their lighting. Great form factor choices, great output, great CRI. Highly recommended.
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I have one of the Milwaukee M18 rocket lights:
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Lighting/Tower-Lights
I have the 2130 version which runs 4 hours at full power (2000 lumens) or 8 hours at half power on a 5Ah battery. Goes 7' tall, great form factor. This is the unidirectional version. They have the 2135 that has three rotatable heads that you can aim for 360° coverage if you desire.
Milwaukee is killing it with their lighting. Great form factor choices, great output, great CRI. Highly recommended.
Thanks Tom - I'll give them a look.
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They aren't ideal, but I often use my Chauvet freedom par quad battery powered up lights for load out.
They are so handy and I often have them there already.
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They aren't ideal, but I often use my Chauvet freedom par quad battery powered up lights for load out.
They are so handy and I often have them there already.
I thought about using some of my PAR-56 cans, but it doesn't sound like fun setting up that stuff just to see!
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I have one of the Milwaukee M18 rocket lights:
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Lighting/Tower-Lights
I have the 2130 version which runs 4 hours at full power (2000 lumens) or 8 hours at half power on a 5Ah battery. Goes 7' tall, great form factor. This is the unidirectional version. They have the 2135 that has three rotatable heads that you can aim for 360° coverage if you desire.
Milwaukee is killing it with their lighting. Great form factor choices, great output, great CRI. Highly recommended.
Tom - these lights look good and may actually work for what we need; yep, it would be the unidirectional one.
What battery do you use? It looks like there are a few available for that light (as well as for the charger). Looks like as long as the battery is an M18, it shouldn't matter what amperage battery is used in the light (as well as what could be charged by the charger).
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I thought about using some of my PAR-56 cans, but it doesn't sound like fun setting up that stuff just to see!
It's all about the batteries. Turn it on, aim it, done.
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Tom - these lights look good and may actually work for what we need; yep, it would be the unidirectional one.
What battery do you use? It looks like there are a few available for that light (as well as for the charger). Looks like as long as the battery is an M18, it shouldn't matter what amperage battery is used in the light (as well as what could be charged by the charger).
All my batteries are the 5Ah ones. There is a version of the light that includes a battery and charger - when I bought it thekit with battery and charger was $50 more than the bare tool. I have a lot of Milwaukee tools, so I have multiple chargers and batteries.
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Anyone using LED flood lights to light up FOH and/or stage areas for load out (or load-in if early in the morning)?
I'm using a couple of these:
https://www.google.com/search?q=magnet+mount+LED+flood+lights+car&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwic5obxt5XbAhUEzVMKHeUxD8oQ_AUICygC&biw=1600&bih=757#imgrc=f9LsaxPbf-3-jM:
...though, these lights are incandescent.
When I load-out, I usually use both of these on one side of my van and trailer; they do a fair job of illuminating the area, but I'm needing more light. They have a fairly good horizontal coverage, but are not bright enough.
The lights I'm using plug into the cigarette lighters... I'm needing the same type, but in LED.
Anyone using LED lights for something like this? Interested in what you are using.
Thanks.
I'm not liking the current crop of LED worklight as they are too pinpoint-bright and even catching one in a casual side glance hurts and destroys any nightvision you may have accumulated. Not to mention they seem to create even deeper shadows. I never used to like those 500W dual-head halogen ones either for those reasons but the LED's make those seem mellow now in comparison.
The best I've ever had for load-out worklight is one of those helium-filled balloons with the giant bare filament lamp in the middle of them. They float up high on a tether and create a nice daylight glow over everything. Usually that's not a practical option for just a load-out -but they were common for area event lighting around LA and performed much better than those trailer crank-up construction lights.
Now I just use the hanging type 400W Metal Halide construction site work-lights hung up high and running off shore power or the inverter on the work truck. The secret is just get it up high for the least amount of blinding or deer-in-the-headlights action.
https://www.amazon.com/Light-HL400PS-Halide-24-Inch-Temporary/dp/B003T0GB8I/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526959450&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A5785247011&dpID=41jTE6AcKoL&preST=_SY445_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
I do remember the old days of load-outs under headlights -obviously not thought-out or planned properly and always having to send someone back in the daytime to find all the stuff that was missed.
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Anyone using LED flood lights to light up FOH and/or stage areas for load out
A few years back, after numerous out-in-a-field gennys going away prematurely, or shore power disappearing at the end of a show, I decided to roll my own 12V battery powered system specifically for tear downs.
First pic, 50 watt floodlights, nice and wide even dispersal, probably about 120 degrees or more. Bent the yoke for some downward angle, added lighting size 1-1/2" pole hole fixtures, just add Ultimate Support tripods (plus extenders) to get them way the hell up there. Full roll of duct tape in pic for size reference.
An aside, why is duct tape the worst option for taping up HVAC ducts? Use the aluminum stuff, 3 mil please.
2nd pic, info on LEDs, if you want to go this way, there are probably better ones these days. These cost about $60 ea, a few years ago.
3rd, battery packs. 12V 12AH gell cells that press fit nicely at the bottom into a Harbor Frieght plastic ammo case that are permanently on sale for 5 bucks. Add switch and fuse, tiny twistloks that I had laying around, voltmeter with bar graph, and an unseen batt charger in the extra space.
Should be better than 3 hours run time, I dunno, we've never had a problem beating it on the out.
Gene
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A few years back, after numerous out-in-a-field gennys going away prematurely, or shore power disappearing at the end of a show, I decided to roll my own 12V battery powered system specifically for tear downs.
First pic, 50 watt floodlights, nice and wide even dispersal, probably about 120 degrees or more. Bent the yoke for some downward angle, added lighting size 1-1/2" pole hole fixtures, just add Ultimate Support tripods (plus extenders) to get them way the hell up there. Full roll of duct tape in pic for size reference.
An aside, why is duct tape the worst option for taping up HVAC ducts? Use the aluminum stuff, 3 mil please.
2nd pic, info on LEDs, if you want to go this way, there are probably better ones these days. These cost about $60 ea, a few years ago.
3rd, battery packs. 12V 12AH gell cells that press fit nicely at the bottom into a Harbor Frieght plastic ammo case that are permanently on sale for 5 bucks. Add switch and fuse, tiny twistloks that I had laying around, voltmeter with bar graph, and an unseen batt charger in the extra space.
Should be better than 3 hours run time, I dunno, we've never had a problem beating it on the out.
Gene
Nice
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3rd, battery packs. 12V 12AH gell cells that press fit nicely at the bottom into a Harbor Frieght plastic ammo case that are permanently on sale for 5 bucks. Add switch and fuse, tiny twistloks that I had laying around, voltmeter with bar graph, and an unseen batt charger in the extra space.
That's some serious MacGuyver'ing, there Gene - good job!
Only point deduction would be for the (potentially hot) male connector on the ammo box...
Dave
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For the Milwaukee chargers, any benefit of the 9.0a over the 5.0a? I'm planning on getting 3 batteries. And speaking of batteries, looks like there are a couple available:
18-Volt Lithium-Ion XC Extended Capacity Battery Pack 3.0Ah
18-Volt Lithium-Ion XC Starter Kit W/ (1) 5.0Ah Battery and Charger
The batteries would only be used for the lighting, no other tools.
Thoughts?
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For the Milwaukee chargers, any benefit of the 9.0a over the 5.0a? I'm planning on getting 3 batteries. And speaking of batteries, looks like there are a couple available:
18-Volt Lithium-Ion XC Extended Capacity Battery Pack 3.0Ah
18-Volt Lithium-Ion XC Starter Kit W/ (1) 5.0Ah Battery and Charger
The batteries would only be used for the lighting, no other tools.
Thoughts?
For lighting, ampacity = runtime; nothing more or less. I have the 5Ah batteries which are good for 4 hours at full output or 8 hours at half output. The 3Ah battery will run 60% as long as the 5Ah battery; the 9Ah will run almost twice as long as the 5.0Ah. What makes sense depends on cost and your needs.
Don't be sure that you won't ever use other tools - Milwaukee has some good stuff that the other players don't have. :)
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For lighting, ampacity = runtime; nothing more or less. I have the 5Ah batteries which are good for 4 hours at full output or 8 hours at half output. The 3Ah battery will run 60% as long as the 5Ah battery; the 9Ah will run almost twice as long as the 5.0Ah. What makes sense depends on cost and your needs.
Don't be sure that you won't ever use other tools - Milwaukee has some good stuff that the other players don't have. :)
Many thanks Tom! This helps narrow it down.
You are right about the selections of tools available. In looking around at Milwaukee for the batteries, this has yielded some nice tools that I may not be able to live without!
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That's some serious MacGuyver'ing, there Gene - good job!
Appreciate that guys, but I wouldn't call it Mcgivering. More like the sport of "How can I build this as cheaply as possible, using parts in hand." This is what makes a project fun, to maintain the highest ratio of recycled parts, vs shiny new store bought.
Case - 5 bucks
Battery - 40 bucks
Meter - 14 bucks, (because they're cool, so I splurged)
LED flood - 60 bucks
Everything else already in stock, as I'm a packrat.
Only point deduction would be for the (potentially hot) male connector on the ammo box...
Point taken, but I'm not that concerned with 12 volts fused at 5 amps causing all that much trouble. The only way to get a shock would be to get your tongue involved, and following a basic common sense rule when working with 12 volts and other low-voltage wiring, is to keep your tongue in your back pocket.
Gene
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<snip>
The only way to get a shock would be to get your tongue involved, and following a basic common sense rule when working with 12 volts and other low-voltage wiring, is to keep your tongue in your back pocket.
Signature worthy. I like it. Words to live by. :-)
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The only way to get a shock would be to get your tongue involved, and following a basic common sense rule when working with 12 volts and other low-voltage wiring, is to keep your tongue in your back pocket.
LOL!
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The only way to get a shock would be to get your tongue involved, and following a basic common sense rule when working with 12 volts and other low-voltage wiring, is to keep your tongue in your back pocket.
Gene
Sounds like a job for KISS... or at least Gene Simmons. 8)
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So man with forked tongue keep one side in pocket, other side to test battery? ;D
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For those considering a roll your own approach, here is a company I saw recommended in another forum.
https://www.oznium.com/
Among other things, check out tractor work lights.
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Well... I picked up a couple of the Milwaukee lights (Rocket Lights) from Tom's comment. Wow... these lights are great! Well worth the expense (including the battery).
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I found this site the other day while looking for work lights. Great selection;
https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-work-lights/?view=standard
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I found this site the other day while looking for work lights. Great selection;
https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-work-lights/?view=standard
Yep, they have some great lights. I put some of their LED strip lights in my cargo trailer (IP67). It's been great.
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Yep, they have some great lights. I put some of their LED strip lights in my cargo trailer (IP67). It's been great.
Could you send a link? I need better lights in my sprinter. Thanks
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The link is in my post.
They also have a universal magnetic mount, wiring harnesses and controllers.
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The link is in my post.
They also have a universal magnetic mount, wiring harnesses and controllers.
I was hoping for a link to a specific product, not the whole website. Sorry
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I found this site the other day while looking for work lights. Great selection;
https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-work-lights/?view=standard
I've bought a good bit of stuff from Superbright LEDs over the last few years and have been very happy. I recently got three of these
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-work-light-for-tractors/off-road-led-work-lightled-driving-light-35-rectangular-5w-725-lumens/2201/4923/ (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-work-light-for-tractors/off-road-led-work-lightled-driving-light-35-rectangular-5w-725-lumens/2201/4923/)
to use as vehicle-mounted work lights. I put a magnetic base on one. (McMaster has a big assortment of magnetic bases, BTW.) These lights are nice as they have no optics to make irregularities in the beam. The individual LEDs are "naked" and spread over an area so the light is not too hard. You still don't want to look directly into it but it's not as bad as some. Given the option, I like a "Chinese lantern" style of diffuser for a work light, but that has its own limitations.
--Frank
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I've bought a good bit of stuff from Superbright LEDs over the last few years and have been very happy.
Looking at the lights on the Superbright website, many of them look identical to the "Traveler" brand sold at Tractor Supply Company. The ones at TSC are somewhat less expensive than on the Superbright site.
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I've bought a good bit of stuff from Superbright LEDs over the last few years and have been very happy. I recently got three of these
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-work-light-for-tractors/off-road-led-work-lightled-driving-light-35-rectangular-5w-725-lumens/2201/4923/ (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-work-light-for-tractors/off-road-led-work-lightled-driving-light-35-rectangular-5w-725-lumens/2201/4923/)
to use as vehicle-mounted work lights. I put a magnetic base on one. (McMaster has a big assortment of magnetic bases, BTW.) These lights are nice as they have no optics to make irregularities in the beam. The individual LEDs are "naked" and spread over an area so the light is not too hard. You still don't want to look directly into it but it's not as bad as some. Given the option, I like a "Chinese lantern" style of diffuser for a work light, but that has its own limitations.
--Frank
I just need a couple for the back of the new tractorette, and I don't want to waste time running cable so maybe a pair of 3-4" lights and harness. Maybe even a blue strobe on the hood for chasing speeders down the street.
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I was hoping for a link to a specific product, not the whole website. Sorry
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I would be happy to specify a product, but with so many choices and so many different needs it's best to do your own research.
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I just need a couple for the back of the new tractorette, and I don't want to waste time running cable so maybe a pair of 3-4" lights and harness. Maybe even a blue strobe on the hood for chasing speeders down the street.
Or the drunks that think they can't get a DUI on a lawnmower (http://www.foxnews.com/us/2017/11/11/drunk-florida-man-arrested-for-driving-lawn-mower-on-highway.html)?
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I would be happy to specify a product, but with so many choices and so many different needs it's best to do your own research.
I'll have to remember this reply for when someone asks about anything sound related. Not
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I'll have to remember this reply for when someone asks about anything sound related. Not
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Give it a rest Hanno. I have no idea what you have or what you need other than you have a piss poor attitude and that needs an adjustment. Maybe you think someone should buy them for you as well, then come along and put them in for free. I'm always thrilled when someone with a simple need comes along and expects the rest of the world to do their homework for them. Do me a favor. Get up off your lazy ass, type the word Google in your browser search bar, or find the link I gave you and decide which of the many hundreds of lights available best meets your needs. And I'll remember your smart assed remark the next time you ask a question about anything, sound related or otherwise.
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Give it a rest Hanno. I have no idea what you have or what you need other than you have a piss poor attitude and that needs an adjustment. Maybe you think someone should buy them for you as well, then come along and put them in for free. I'm always thrilled when someone with a simple need comes along and expects the rest of the world to do their homework for them. Do me a favor. Get up off your lazy ass, type the word Google in your browser search bar, or find the link I gave you and decide which of the many hundreds of lights available best meets your needs. And I'll remember your smart assed remark the next time you ask a question about anything, sound related or otherwise.
What were the key items in your decision tree to whittle down the candidates?
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There were none, other than "I need better lights in my Sprinter." Should have printed the catalog, thrown a dart at it and told him to get the lights the dart hit.