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 1 
 on: Today at 01:03:37 AM 
Started by Ed Taylor - Last post by Brian Jojade
The question that matters is are your clients going to pay you more for using the newer gear, or are you going to save in labor or transport costs?  If either are significant enough to buy new stuff, go for it.  If not, older stuff can keep making money.

 2 
 on: Yesterday at 11:53:23 PM 
Started by Matt Vivlamore - Last post by Luke Geis
Dare I say L' Acoustics X series. You can get the X12 or X15 and an amp for just over that budget. Or you can get the X15HiQ?

 3 
 on: Yesterday at 11:22:40 PM 
Started by Matt Vivlamore - Last post by Caleb Dueck
I was just thinking the same thing. 835P are work horses in my world thus far. Love them

Going from an MI JBL box to another MI JBL box of the same series - isn't much of a step up.  Or going from MI of any brand to another MI from another brand.

Fulcrum, Danley, TW Audio, d&b, etc - would be a step up. 

 4 
 on: Yesterday at 10:37:20 PM 
Started by Jeff Lelko - Last post by Jeff Lelko
Thanks Scott, Mal, and Ike!

The Hakko iron looks similar to the current iron I have concerning form/fit/function.  It's served me well for the past decade so I'd have no complaints with something like the FX888D. 

Looking more to Ike's suggestions, I definitely need "regular" soldering and de-soldering but would also like tooling options like hot tweezers at the very least and preferably hot air.  From what I can see it's not particularly cheap to buy all the various tools independently so I'm curious to see what "all in one" rework stations make sense both financially as well as saving space on my bench.  Browsing howardelectronics and others it's just where to start with all that?!  The price points are really all over the map with these.

I'd say on a scale of 1-10 with 1 being crude hobby use and 10 being daily professional use in life-safety appliances I'd rate my use case about a 6 if that helps.  Thanks again!

 5 
 on: Yesterday at 10:06:21 PM 
Started by Brian Bolly - Last post by Tom Roche
Celebrity of sorts...

Colin Powell, retired general, Chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff, and Secretary of State.  I went to high school with his son, who became the Chairman of the FCC under G.W. Bush.

 6 
 on: Yesterday at 08:28:40 PM 
Started by Matt Vivlamore - Last post by Sam Costa
SRX835P?

Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

I was just thinking the same thing. 835P are work horses in my world thus far. Love them

 7 
 on: Yesterday at 07:45:21 PM 
Started by Ed Taylor - Last post by Paul G. OBrien
In the pricepoint of QSC K18 sub series type market footprint. Do those subs, (for live bands, not DJ) really give me more than my old Mackie SWA1801s and SWA1501s provide.

What you get from the Prosumer market in a sub these days is a smaller/lighter package with more amplifier power and much more advanced DSP onboard that in some cases will go a bit lower and may(or may not) get a bit louder. It's hard to know with the amount of specs fudging that goes on these days.
But that is only if you replace the boxes 1 for 1... which may be missing an oportunity if you are prepared to replace them all. Something like a single Bassboss SSP118 can apparently replace 2-4 consumer 18" boxes in terms of SPL and produce more lowend extension.

 8 
 on: Yesterday at 07:00:08 PM 
Started by Jorge Ramos - Last post by Jorge Ramos
have you reached out on the musictribe behringer site.  ,,,    Or put a new blank card  formated as fat or fat32.   not ntfs. 
then run a bios update from the usb and thumb drive ???


Thank you Jerome Malsack, for the tips.

All the Best.
Best Regards

 9 
 on: Yesterday at 06:56:24 PM 
Started by Ed Taylor - Last post by Jay Marr
Not putting down you gear, because I've had some of those old Mackie subs....but yes, new subs are MUCH better.
Those Mackie are very weak in comparison to most decent powered 18" subs.

 10 
 on: Yesterday at 06:54:50 PM 
Started by Matt Vivlamore - Last post by Tim Hite
I plugged my distro into a 14-50 outlet and then went to meter it and got some weird readings.  With my Distro breakers ON, I was getting 219-221v on the Edison outlets and the circuit tester was reading as 'Correct Wiring' and with my Distro breakers OFF, I was getting 49-51v and the circuit tester was still reading 'Correct Wiring'.

When I called for building maintenance, he came out and told me that the property isn't wired for 220v power and looked at my meter and walked away.  Dummy me didn't meter the actual 14-50 outlet.

Whats your thoughts on this?  What is happening?

Distro is from EMG, 50' Cali extension is from LEX and I built (used before) the 14-50 to CS6364 adapter.

We recently installed a 120/240 transformer for the National Park Service and had exactly this problem. It was a step down from a 460/208 system.

The issue turned out to be that the neutral on the transformer wasn't tapped correctly and our "master electrician" had wired the neutral to ground instead of to the center tap on the transformer.

The real pain in the ass was that everything tested correctly without a load from leg to leg, but when the breakers were flipped on I got the strange voltage readings. Connecting the neutral correctly fixed everything immediately.

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