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Sound Reinforcement - Forums for Live Sound Professionals - Your Displayed Name Must Be Your Real Full Name To Post In The Live Sound Forums => Lighting Forum => Topic started by: (Brian) Frost on August 24, 2017, 12:31:12 PM
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i really like aluminum 30" bases for truss. I would love my inventory to be all the same bases. are there aluminum bases that have threads for pipe and also work for global truss?
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i really like aluminum 30" bases for truss. I would love my inventory to be all the same bases. are there aluminum bases that have threads for pipe and also work for global truss?
Make your own?
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Make your own?
how would I safely attach the threaded piece?
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Bolt one of these to the bottom of your base plate, screw in the pipe. Shouldn't interfere with your trussing. I prefer steel base plates when using pipe just use lots of sandbags.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in-Galvanized-Malleable-Iron-Floor-Flange-511-607HN/100183709
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You wouldnt be worried that the torque of a 12ft pole could rip any smaller bolts out of that adapter?
Bolt one of these to the bottom of your base plate, screw in the pipe. Shouldn't interfere with your trussing. I prefer steel base plates when using pipe just use lots of sandbags.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in-Galvanized-Malleable-Iron-Floor-Flange-511-607HN/100183709
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You wouldnt be worried that the torque of a 12ft pole could rip any smaller bolts out of that adapter?
12ft pole * 30lb force at top = 360lb/ft moment
your run of the mill 1/4" bolt has 1750lb loading and 2350lb tensile strength.
I doubt you'll have issues. I'd be more concerned the bolts on the bottom of the plate protruding. (just countersink them...)
http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/bolts/proofloadtensile.htm
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i really like aluminum 30" bases for truss. I would love my inventory to be all the same bases. are there aluminum bases that have threads for pipe and also work for global truss?
As this hasn't been mentioned yet, drilling and tapping your base for pipe threads isn't a good idea - not enough thread surface, and the aluminum base plate isn't strong or thick enough to have enough holding force - you would rip the threads right out of the base.
If you're going to do it, a flange bolted to the plate is the way to go.
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agree. i was worried that the flange wouldnt have enough threads either. i wonder if i got a plate that had a lip around the edge and put a hole through the plate and had the flange on the under side.
As this hasn't been mentioned yet, drilling and tapping your base for pipe threads isn't a good idea - not enough thread surface, and the aluminum base plate isn't strong or thick enough to have enough holding force - you would rip the threads right out of the base.
If you're going to do it, a flange bolted to the plate is the way to go.
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agree. i was worried that the flange wouldnt have enough threads either. i wonder if i got a plate that had a lip around the edge and put a hole through the plate and had the flange on the under side.
You haven't said what this is for. What is the application? The flange will be significantly stronger than the aluminum plate.
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You haven't said what this is for. What is the application? The flange will be significantly stronger than the aluminum plate.
i want to be able to use the same bases for truss with projectors on top and poles with lighting on top. if it seems safe,and i can do both from the same location, Id like to have an offset pole threads so I can put a projector on a top plate and 2 lekos on a pole on one base.
All of this would be very light weight. 50lbs for projector, 50 lbs for 2 lekos.
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i want to be able to use the same bases for truss with projectors on top and poles with lighting on top. if it seems safe,and i can do both from the same location, Id like to have an offset pole threads so I can put a projector on a top plate and 2 lekos on a pole on one base.
All of this would be very light weight. 50lbs for projector, 50 lbs for 2 lekos.
So both pole and truss on the base plate at same time?
I was imagining pipe'n'drape being used with the base as well as trussing (multi-use baseplate of sorts).
Why not just get a swivel coupler and clamp the pipe to the truss?
https://www.kpodj.com/2x-global-truss-swivel-clamp-n-p-105148/
Make sure to offset the weight difference & the pipe needs to be ~2" OD to work
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In another recent post here I mentioned tank traps, and linked to this company:
http://www.doughty-engineering.co.uk/shop/147/index.htm
Take a look at the 3 position tank trap. If you are using spigoted truss it's close to what you want. Downside its only a 24 inch base. Doughty US doesn't show this product, but you could always give them a call. One plus for a tank trap is you don't have to worry about cross threading a pipe flange. Quicker to set up too.
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Global Truss 30"x30" aluminum base plates use a flathead hex socket ("Allen") cap screw to hold the half couplers in place. They are M8 cap screws IIRC (6mm allen wrench). Use that same size if you want to bolt a flange to the baseplate. If you want more thread depth for engagement, have a collar (threaded pipe connection) welded to 1/4"'steel plate and bolt the plate/collar assembly to base plate. Off-set the location on the baseplate as desired to decrease the likelihood of tipping.
There are other fabrication options, if you want to get fancy about how it looks when the threaded collar is mounted to the baseplate. I can see a way to do it with just one extra bolthole in the baseplate, and no visible hardware exposed.
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I've seen bases that were welded out of steel. They had an outer "square" and an "X" running through the middle. The truss could bolt through the X brace and in the middle was a pipe thread. I'm sure you could have these made by a shop pretty easily.
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i like this plan and with a few added holes I could change positioning of the pipe depending on use.
Global Truss 30"x30" aluminum base plates use a flathead hex socket ("Allen") cap screw to hold the half couplers in place. They are M8 cap screws IIRC (6mm allen wrench). Use that same size if you want to bolt a flange to the baseplate. If you want more thread depth for engagement, have a collar (threaded pipe connection) welded to 1/4"'steel plate and bolt the plate/collar assembly to base plate. Off-set the location on the baseplate as desired to decrease the likelihood of tipping.
There are other fabrication options, if you want to get fancy about how it looks when the threaded collar is mounted to the baseplate. I can see a way to do it with just one extra bolthole in the baseplate, and no visible hardware exposed.
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i like this plan and with a few added holes I could change positioning of the pipe depending on use.
If you go with a one-bolt option, it probably needs to be an M12 or larger; getting a real engineer involved is a good idea. The taller the pipe, the more you need it to be done correctly.
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For those who haven't seen it, another fun truss option which offers many configuration possibilities:
http://www.modtruss.com/
The last few years they have shared a booth at LDI with Blizzard Lighting.