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Finally remembered to take a picture.

-Russ

Edited to add: the screws I'm using in place of the Neutrik-provided ones are #4-3/4" self-tapping screws sold in my local big-box hardware store as "wood/metal screws".

Nice

The Brayer roller is the tool you need with the ink pallet (very similar to an ink stamp pad). Lets you get very crisp and clean results. It's been a while, but if memory serves we got a couple of rollers, ink pads, 16oz of black and white ink for a couple hundred bucks. That stencilled around two hundred cases with ink left over.
Post the apocalypse the prices are probably shocking now.

You can also put a bit of the paint on a pallet with a paint knife and spread that with the brayer.  See how it works in practice. 

We have a standard analog clear-com system in a campus theater.  There is a performing arts student with hearing aids that cannot use a standard headset to hear the intercom, and this is preventing them from being able to do certain jobs related to their major.   I do not know  their specific hearing interface yet, other than their phone connect directly to their hearing aids.  Does anyone know of any product or solution that I might start looking at?  JK Audio used to have a Bluetooth device, but I cannot find it any longer.  Buying a Freespeak or Eclipse system is not really and option.   I have a meeting with them next week, so hope to find out more before the school year ends so we might be able to find a solution before school starts back in the fall.   Hopefully we can find a solution that they can use with multiple systems to open up opportunities for future employment.

The one at the bottom of the list looks large enough for a wireless mic.

https://www.windtech.tv/product-category/shock-mounts/

Yes, that's how I found out about the brayer and waterproof paint.  It's expensive. Brayer lets you get the thinnest possible coating.

The Brayer roller is the tool you need with the ink pallet (very similar to an ink stamp pad). Lets you get very crisp and clean results. It's been a while, but if memory serves we got a couple of rollers, ink pads, 16oz of black and white ink for a couple hundred bucks. That stencilled around two hundred cases with ink left over.
Post the apocalypse the prices are probably shocking now.

Scott, did you ask your supplier what they recommend for ink and application?
Chris.

Yes, that's how I found out about the brayer and waterproof paint.  It's expensive. Brayer lets you get the thinnest possible coating.   

Since it's the combiner inputs to be terminated, the 75 ohm will work fine. That's a 1.5:1 VSWR mismatch (damn good in our world actually), presuming the inputs are exactly 50 ohm, which I assure you they are not. They are almost certainly somewhere between 50-75 ohm.

I was wondering about that. I've already ordered the DC block, but I'll keep that in mind for the next time this comes up (and I ASSume that logic would be equally applicable to the outputs on a unity distro, no?).

Thanks!

-Russ

I too am subscribed to this one.  For a while I’ve gone back and forth between the stencil/ink/paint route versus getting some nice printed metal plates to rivet on the cases.  Though more expensive, I think the plate route looks better and can be easily gaffed over if a client wants cases left in view as “stage props”.  I’ll probably settle on one or the other when ordering my next set of truck-pack cases and go from there…

I paid a company to do my stencils.   They used a pen plotter with a knife in it to cut the stencils


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Scott, did you ask your supplier what they recommend for ink and application?
Chris.

The irony is that 75Ω DC-blocking terminators are relatively cheap and plentiful...as long as you're willing to adapt to an F connector.

Since it's the combiner inputs to be terminated, the 75 ohm will work fine. That's a 1.5:1 VSWR mismatch (damn good in our world actually), presuming the inputs are exactly 50 ohm, which I assure you they are not. They are almost certainly somewhere between 50-75 ohm.