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Sound Reinforcement - Forums for Live Sound Professionals - Your Displayed Name Must Be Your Real Full Name To Post In The Live Sound Forums => The Basement => Topic started by: boburtz on November 19, 2022, 02:26:31 PM
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Looking for a usable solution to cable labeling and ID. This is for everything from XLR cables to 50a to 2/0 feeder. We have been using a standard P-touch for years, and it's great for most things, but I'm looking for something I can print our logo and other font-specific stuff onto, then wrap around cables and have them stick and be flexible. Printing from a standard laser printer. Self-laminating greatly preferred. Anybody got a real world recommendation? There are lots of items available that seem to fit the bill, and then others that definitely do not. I just want to try to get the correct one the first time. Any help is appreciated.
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THE brands for labeling are Brady and maybe Kingsley. Printing on a regular office printer? Uh...
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I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/DYMO-Industrial-RHINO-Label-1755749/dp/B002M1DEM6
You can use vinyl or polyester labels. It has done very well for me.
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I labeled all of mine with labels printed on regular paper which I taped to the cable and covered with 4:1 clear heat shrink. Not sure how practical it would be on really big cables, but for XLRs and such they've held up well to the past 5+ years of light use. They are somewhat ugly, especially after getting dirty, but with them on the mixer end of the cable it's not an issue for me.
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Note that Bob wants to print his LOGO, not just lettering.
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Note that Bob wants to print his LOGO, not just lettering.
FWIW my P-Touch labeller does that (albeit in black and white); I would think models from other brands could do that, too?
-Russ
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FWIW my P-Touch labeller does that (albeit in black and white); I would think models from other brands could do that, too?
-Russ
The P-Touch Q-810 will print on 2.3" plastic 2 color (black and red) tape. If that is wide enough for your labels just print short labels and wrap them around the cable. For real permanence you may want to cover with clear shrink.
Mac
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The P-Touch Q-810 will print on 2.3" plastic 2 color (black and red) tape. If that is wide enough for your labels just print short labels and wrap them around the cable. For real permanence you may want to cover with clear shrink.
Mac
Thanks all. As necessary and functional as it is, the shrink-over-label thing is something I'm trying to avoid, as that means dismantling cables in order to add labels. I've found some label stock that is self-laminating and I'm hoping to go this route. This way, I can print custom labels, with ID colors (we color code lengths in our shop) with the equivalent of clear shrink over the label. Ideally, this can all be done on a retrofit basis. I've found some contenders that I think I'm just going to try. I will post results if and when I do.
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author=Tim McCulloch link=topic=178095.msg1644435#msg1644435 date=1668897103]
THE brands for labeling are Brady and maybe Kingsley. Printing on a regular office printer? Uh...
Check out Epson LabelWorks. I have been using them for 25 years (was K-Sun formerly). Their consumables are on the order of half of what Brady costs, they have much lower waste per label than the competition as the print head is right next to the blade so no 3/4” wasted tail on either side of the printing, and their printers are really cool.
I’m up to three currently: The big dog LW-Z5010PX https://labelworks.epson.com/for-work/printers/lw-z5010px.html can print up to 2” wide, 300 DPI with half toning for graphics (in the software), a LW-PX750 https://labelworks.epson.com/for-work/printers/lw-px750.html in a drawer somewhere, and a LW-PX400 Bluetooth printer that lives in my tool backpack.
They have a large selection of label stock in vinyl, polyester, nylon, heat shrink tube, and two widths of cable wrap label tape - 1” that works well for Cat cables, and 1.5” for larger cables.
There is a deal on Amazon for the LW-Z5010PX that includes a 150’ bulk roll of 1” tape for a very attractive price.
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Thanks all. As necessary and functional as it is, the shrink-over-label thing is something I'm trying to avoid, as that means dismantling cables in order to add labels. I've found some label stock that is self-laminating and I'm hoping to go this route. This way, I can print custom labels, with ID colors (we color code lengths in our shop) with the equivalent of clear shrink over the label. Ideally, this can all be done on a retrofit basis. I've found some contenders that I think I'm just going to try. I will post results if and when I do.
Update: I found this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SPZXQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Put regular water resistant laser printed labels on cable, tape over it with this. It looks just like shrink tubing over the same labels, we'll see how long it lasts or how long it takes to turn into goo.
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Not to throw a topic swerve in, but does anyone know of an "industry standard" for color-coding cable lengths?
I can tell my own cables by eye knowing what lengths I have in inventory, but if I color-code I'd like to go with the philosophy that others have already adopted.
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Not to throw a topic swerve in, but does anyone know of an "industry standard" for color-coding cable lengths?
I can tell my own cables by eye knowing what lengths I have in inventory, but if I color-code I'd like to go with the philosophy that others have already adopted.
You'll get tons of opinions on this, including whether or not you should even have a large variety of lengths in inventory, but I like using resistor code. Black(no label)/Brown/Red/Yellow/Green/Blue/etc, going up in length. In our case, we did 1/3/5/10/25/50/100.
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Not to throw a topic swerve in, but does anyone know of an "industry standard" for color-coding cable lengths?
I can tell my own cables by eye knowing what lengths I have in inventory, but if I color-code I'd like to go with the philosophy that others have already adopted.
I'll have to look when I go to the PAC today, but with rigging wire rope slings - red is 5', white is 10', 20' are blue, 30' are green (IIRC).
We went to velcro tabs for mic cables and "our guy" used black for 25' cables, red for 10' or shorter, and black for 50' (easy to tell, they're the fattest bundles.
When I was operating my own shop I had 2 lengths of mic cables - 35' and 10'. Maybe a couple of 100' for outdoor stuff. Never saw the benefit to having a bunch of cables in 5 ft increments or having 7 different lengths for stage use in inventory.
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Never saw the benefit to having a bunch of cables in 5 ft increments or having 7 different lengths for stage use in inventory.
We have a length known as "less than 25", which is any cable between 4' and 24' long. Most of them were originally longer cables that got damaged.
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Update: I found this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SPZXQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SPZXQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
Put regular water resistant laser printed labels on cable, tape over it with this. It looks just like shrink tubing over the same labels, we'll see how long it lasts or how long it takes to turn into goo.
Seemed to be too good to be true. Actual usage/performance outlined in the question and answer section.
Question: Will this tape work on a frayed electrical cord and can I use a heat gun on it?
Answer: This tape is designed to be applied to any holes created during the shrink wrapping process. It is also used to secure any seams or pleats. The tape is applied after the shrinking process has occurred. The tape itself DOES NOT shrink and can burn.
By Shrinkthat SELLER on November 15, 2016
(sigh...)
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Not to throw a topic swerve in, but does anyone know of an "industry standard" for color-coding cable lengths?
I can tell my own cables by eye knowing what lengths I have in inventory, but if I color-code I'd like to go with the philosophy that others have already adopted.
Remember the “Roy G Biv” moniker for the colors in visual-light spectrum?
Red = 10’
Orange (can’t find any orange Velcro strips we use to color code our cables)
Yellow = 15’
Green = a few 20’
Blue = a ton of 25’ we needed before installation of built-in up/downstage drop snakes
Indigo = 30’
This works for us.
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Remember the “Roy G Biv” moniker for the colors in visual-light spectrum?
Red = 10’
Orange (can’t find any orange Velcro strips we use to color code our cables)
Yellow = 15’
Green = a few 20’
Blue = a ton of 25’ we needed before installation of built-in up/downstage drop snakes
Indigo = 30’
This works for us.
Politics has kinda eliminated that referenced as the LBQT etc. community has adopted that moniker.
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Not to throw a topic swerve in, but does anyone know of an "industry standard" for color-coding cable lengths?
I can tell my own cables by eye knowing what lengths I have in inventory, but if I color-code I'd like to go with the philosophy that others have already adopted.
As you can see by the replies, there are tons of standards... ;-)
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Seemed to be too good to be true. Actual usage/performance outlined in the question and answer section.
Question: Will this tape work on a frayed electrical cord and can I use a heat gun on it?
Answer: This tape is designed to be applied to any holes created during the shrink wrapping process. It is also used to secure any seams or pleats. The tape is applied after the shrinking process has occurred. The tape itself DOES NOT shrink and can burn.
By Shrinkthat SELLER on November 15, 2016
(sigh...)
I'm finding that it doesn't really need to shrink. If you wrap it tightly, it's as though it has been shrunk. It is as clear as clear shrink, and the seam is difficult to find after application. It kind of marries to itself. So far I like it.
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I use these on everything. I love them.
I have my logo & phone number and print out a few pages every time I need some more cable labels.
They are very durable.
I plan on going back through to add a second label with the cable length on it (05, 10, 15, 25, 50, 75, 100)
HellermannTyton TAG64L-105 Self Laminating Laser Tags 1000 pk. 1.17in X .83in X 3.33in
https://www.markertek.com/product/tag64l-105/hellermanntyton-tag64l-105-self-laminating-laser-tags-1000-pk-1-17in-x-83in-x-3-33in
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Not to throw a topic swerve in, but does anyone know of an "industry standard" for color-coding cable lengths?
I can tell my own cables by eye knowing what lengths I have in inventory, but if I color-code I'd like to go with the philosophy that others have already adopted.
The only standard is resistor code. Everything else is made up.
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Politics has kinda eliminated that referenced as the LBQT etc. community has adopted that moniker.
Well we do indeed take Pride in our cables!
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The only standard is resistor code. Everything else is made up.
Well, that was made up too, once.
I just ordered some (cheap) colored cable wraps on amazon(ugh). We'll see how they work.
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Black(no label)/Brown/Red/Yellow/Green/Blue/etc,
Does everyone here work in well-lit rooms?
I have a heckuva time telling Brown from Red, Red from Orange, Blue from Indigo in low light conditions. For that reason, I prefer higher contrast colors or just white labels with lengths printed.
Dave
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Does everyone here work in well-lit rooms?
I have a heckuva time telling Brown from Red, Red from Orange, Blue from Indigo in low light conditions. For that reason, I prefer higher contrast colors or just white labels with lengths printed.
Dave
THIS ^^^
Under stage light is that violet, gray, or blue? Yellow or faded green?
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THIS ^^^
Under stage light is that violet, gray, or blue? Yellow or faded green?
Heh, yes just today we were pre setting a stage for an indoor festival this weekend while the lampies were doing their thing and it was pretty tough at times to tell the colors apart, but even then, if you're used to working with 5/10/25/50 etc length XLRs, it's not difficult to know what's what with a quick look or feel of the coil itself, IMO. Even a 5 foot coil vs a 10 foot is pretty obvious to the trained eye. Ideally when you're building things out (the time when you're actually digging the appropriate cables for the job out of the trunk) you have some sort of halfway decent work light. Of course we know that's not always the case. But if you're just working under colored stage light, chances are you're striking an opener when the length doesn't matter because it's all going back in the same trunk.
I understand the simplicity of fewer options when working with the stagehand du jour, but I personally really like the variety to be able to use the shortest cable for the job. Sure, 5 foot XLRs may be a bit extreme, so we don't own a ton and only send a few out on applicable gigs, but they're pretty great for jumping that wireless rack that lives on top of the split or the Kick In mic that's right next to the subsnake. It's a low-carb plan for the often seen stage spaghetti.
Everyone finds a workflow that works for them and the crews they regularly work with. As they say, "YMMV," just find a system that works for you and stick with it.
I do agree that the ol' ROYGBIV is relatively easy to remember for many, hence why we adopted it.
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It's a lot easier to see colors if you code your cables with Neutrik BXX.
PVC tape + shrink tube can be difficult to see.
My XLRs are 3m, 6m, 9m with BXX ends and company name under XXCR rings.
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I had mine printed on heatshrink. It looks great, and it's durable. On mic cables, it fits over the connector if you order it correctly. On mic cables I do not clear shrink over it, though I do on NL4 and Power cables.
I ordered them from heatshrink.com, and back in 2020 it was $.67 ea. I am happy with it, it looks a lot better than many other things I tried (which included P-Touch).
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THIS ^^^
Under stage light is that violet, gray, or blue? Yellow or faded green?
Nothing a headlamp can't fix.
Bought a couple of these really cool led strip head straps. Fit like a sweat band, so not floppy like some single bulb types.
Unfortunately, I didn't save the source, so I can't share the specifics.
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I also use resistor code, for cable length as well as fantail numbers. I have some electrical tape in pastel shades for numbers past 10, up to 16. Works great. I find it MUCH easier and faster to find a color in a bundle than a number written somewhere.
Most of my cables also have the length written on them as well, sometimes on a Brother label over colored electrical tape with heat shrink over it, sometimes on a thin Brother label under a clear Neutrik ring (in the case of XLR), but also written in silver Sharpie on the Velcro ties I make. This way even people who don't know resistor code will easily know what the cable is.
I've never found anything that I can print myself that will hold up as well as a Brother label with heat shrink over it, but some of these suggestions have me curious.
I don't disagree with the accepted color code for steel, there aren't that many lengths to deal with. Red, white, and blue cover the majority, with only a few others occasionally. It's a very patriotic color code.
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I appreciate the input! I like the resistor coloring philosophy and will probably go with that. I'm with everyone else here that I don't keep oddball lengths of cable - above "patch" length it's either 25ft, 50ft, or 100ft. I know some lighting techs that keep DMX cable in the same lengths as their Soca which is sometimes in multiples of 8, but that isn't me...
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{...} I know some lighting techs that keep DMX cable {...} in multiples of 8, {...}
This is how Christie Lites does all their cables (IIRC 4', 8', 16', 24', 48', 96', and maybe 144' or 192'?); the best explanation I ever received (which doesn't typically apply so much to our department) is that the vast majority of their truss is 8' long, so their cable lenghts are in 8' multiples to match.
-Russ
ETA: Christie also uses resistor code for its cable labels (see page 3) (https://www.christielites.com/file_uploads/colorcodes_446_Color_codes_v2_1.pdf).
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We used a mix of IEC colors and red, white & blue which we had started with back in the dark ages. We didn't go into combinations of colors below 100ft. For things like 250 ft we used red + blue, our 2 and 5 indicators. Had to rely on the crew not to mix up 25 for 250 ::) What helped a lot was putting a color print out in the lid of every case detailing what the color marking scheme was.
Did a show earlier in the week with a shop that had no length markings on their cables and after decades of having that spelled out it made for some minor frustrations so I suspect you will be happier for the change.
I appreciate the input! I like the resistor coloring philosophy and will probably go with that. I'm with everyone else here that I don't keep oddball lengths of cable - above "patch" length it's either 25ft, 50ft, or 100ft. I know some lighting techs that keep DMX cable in the same lengths as their Soca which is sometimes in multiples of 8, but that isn't me...
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At my venue, we settled on:
- Blue: 15ft and under
- Green: 25ft
- Red: 50ft
- Yellow: 100ft
- Orange: 200ft
- Purple: 300ft/100m
I’ve found there’s enough “obvious” differentiation between colors and wrap sizes that even if the colors aren’t immediately discernible, one can tell a cable length fairly easily.
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Hello,
I found the "Mr. Label" brand on Amazon works very well when you want to label but not remove the connectors. Plus they're sold in most "cable length" colors and are printable sheets so you can put any graphic you can imagine on them. Once you get the template set you're in business. LINKY THING (https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Label-Self-Laminating-Around-Cable-Labels/dp/B078XR72Y7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1YJS6RZHLKWKH&keywords=self%2Blaminating%2Blabels%2Bmr.%2Blabel&qid=1674419754&sprefix=self%2Blaminating%2Blabels%2Bmr.%2Blabel%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-3&th=1)
If the link doesn't work, search for "Printable self-laminating label sheets" or "Mr. Label Self Laminating" and you should find some great options.
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Hello,
I found the "Mr. Label" brand on Amazon works very well when you want to label but not remove the connectors. Plus they're sold in most "cable length" colors and are printable sheets so you can put any graphic you can imagine on them. Once you get the template set you're in business. LINKY THING (https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Label-Self-Laminating-Around-Cable-Labels/dp/B078XR72Y7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1YJS6RZHLKWKH&keywords=self%2Blaminating%2Blabels%2Bmr.%2Blabel&qid=1674419754&sprefix=self%2Blaminating%2Blabels%2Bmr.%2Blabel%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-3&th=1)
If the link doesn't work, search for "Printable self-laminating label sheets" or "Mr. Label Self Laminating" and you should find some great options.
Please go to your profile and change your name to your real full name as required by the posting rules.
Mac
admin
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I'm finding that it doesn't really need to shrink. If you wrap it tightly, it's as though it has been shrunk. It is as clear as clear shrink, and the seam is difficult to find after application. It kind of marries to itself. So far I like it.
UPDATE:
The goo that is created from this tape in the heat is a deal breaker. I just removed it from a BUNCH of cables, and subsequently removed the goo from the cables, as well. Agh!