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It's possible that there's not an external connection for the control.  Some lights put everything right on a single board, including the controller and IR and whatnot.  Over-riding that would mean cutting traces on the board and a whole bunch of monkeybusiness.

If you're doing this just by guess, there's a real chance that something could go horribly wrong and create an electrical shock hazard.  Not really the best plan.

The 3-pin wire at the bottom center would be my first suspect.

I have a DMX decoder I was able to use with a small 25W RGB floodlight for my escape room. I simply opened it up and intercepted the RGB wires and it worked great. We wanted more light so I bought the 80W version of it and its exactly what we want. However, when I opened it up, I could not for the life of me figure out where to connect a wire to control the R, G, & B signals. Both the lights were IR connected but like I said I hooked up the smaller light and it worked for what I needed exactly. So wherever I can add a wire and control the RGB signal is what I'm looking to you all for

I have a pic of the old smaller light and the new opened light. The light I need help with is the larger of the two with the 4 rows of LEDs.

HEres the link to the new lights I purchased.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BTSQN697?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 I own 3 DZR10s. I bought my first pair about 5 years ago and love them. They sound great and get loud for their size. My band has used them with a pair of QSC K212C subs at gigs with 300 people. I bought another one last year to use as a monitor and again no complaints.

Yes. I guess this was at a point in my life that I still believed that people could be expected to actually do their job...

I stopped trusting before you, but still had problems..

Everything checked out properly on day one of a two day hotel gig.  My brother flipped on the main breaker in the distro on day two, instantly almost all the fuses in all the FOH and monitor mix gear blew, the amps were undamaged as they were all turned off, but we always just killed the main breaker rather than turning off individual front end stuff.

Turns out a rookie house electrician had untied our tails after we had left, thinking we were loading out in the morning, then realized we were in for two days, then re-tied us swapping a hot for neutral.

Fortunately he had logged his action so we were able to get some money for the stuff that burnt up instead of blew fuses.

You just never can tell what will happen from day to day...

Art

Hi All,
Anyone know about what the original selling price was for a Crest Century VX 64 frame loaded with 40 mono and 8 stereo inputs and 8 empty slots with blank covers as well as a full doghouse case and 2 PSU's in about a 20 RU rack?
I'm mostly just curious because honestly, I can't at all remember how much this board was new. ThaT'S JUST TOO MAY YEARS AGO FOR MY OLD BRAIN TO REMEMBER.... I think the manufacturing year was 1999 OR 2000? But that's just my best guess. I'll attach a couple photos.
Thanks!
Mark

That was a long time ago, and only a couple quick glances at the dealer price sheet back then.  I want to say it was around or slightly under $20k. 

I guess there's already a good thread on this, but it's from 2018. Any change in advice for 2024 +?
https://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php?topic=166248.0

For those of you that tour with FS II, have you had better luck with 1.9 or 2.4? I have the older 1.9ghz and have found it to be unusable in certain venues. CC recommends 1.9ghz in the USA, and I would think 2.4 would be pretty crowded, so hoping to get some real-world experience advice on what would be the best choice for a new system, being toured in the USA and Canada.
I wish they made a switchable transceiver and Beltpack!

RIP Bruce Knight, FOH for Lyle Lovett.

And a whole lot of others. Sigh . . . Way too young. A great talent and a fun guy to tour with. I'll miss him.