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This is true for many areas of production.  People don't realize how fast the price goes up as the space that needs to be filled increases.  They don't think that something good enough for 10 people in a 200 square foot space should cost 10X as much for 100 people in a 2000 square foot space.

Thanks everyone.  This is a "competitor" that we work with on all sorts of projects.  A 7.5 HD is not exactly cutting edge these days.  I wish I had some 10k laser Pannie's but I don't.

It went out for $250 projector $100 lens, $200 screen and $300 for the tech to setup and strike.

I am happy with those rates

Scott

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk

When I had to get forklift certification in a previous career to satisfy Cal Osha requirements, the process consisted of watching a couple of videos about operation and safety practices then actual operation of a lift observed by the safety person. This was considered adequate for certifying employees who already were experienced with forklift operation and safety, not as training for someone new.

I recall hearing about issues with Class D on subs, though, this was many years ago.  From that time, I stayed away from Class D amps for years, but I own them now.  They are in all of our powered speakers.  We use the Crown Macro-Tech 9000i amps on subs (for larger shows).  Each amp has its own 20amp circuit.  Plenty of bass, no struggling.  I actually had a few issues with some Class H amps (QSC PLX) tripping breakers when running them on subs. 

Some would argue, Class D amps don't do as well with subs.

It's what they excel at, but overall performance is still relative to the price point so one should not be surprised if a convential touring grade amp beats a budget class D amp.

But on another note, I looked up those Community subs and found 2 different spec sheets, one I suspect was for an earlier relaese that recommended an amp in the 800-1200w range and another where the numbers got doubled. So was there a later version of the sub with updated more powerful drivers or was this change in spec more of a reflection of how speaker ratings changed when the AES spec was adopted?

If there are 2 versions of the sub are you certain you have the later one?

I'd vote to keep the Driverack. There isn't a passive speaker made that doesn't need some corrective processing, this is EQ, time and phase allignment that flattens response and can provide a basic system EQ to get the overall tone shape you want. This is a separate issue from room correction which is of little value at the lounge level IMO, so why not load all this into the box that can't be changed by accident and gives you the same starting point at every event.

It's even better than that in v4: with the "User In" and "User Out" blocks (both of which can source from AES50 input channels and both of which can be assigned to AES50 output blocks) you can easily pass-through individual AES50 channels if you want to.

-Russ

I knew you could use that for getting AES channels in and out of the mixer, but I couldn't remember if you could use that to route AES ->AES connections.

Yeah, compared to v1, it's a significantly better workflow!!  When it first came out, they had said it was a hardware limitation that required routing in blocks of 8.  Apparently, they figured a way around it!

As far as removing the board after each show to be stored, we are using analog snakes and have a DAW station, a separate Tascam, etc. not to mention I am not at every show so I would constantly be on the phone explaining to someone what that need to do to get __ working. If I can get 6 to 7 years of use before repairs in our abusive environment I am not going to complain. I mean I do wish that I had the gumption to want to take that kind of care of the board, but that is not my reality.

Thanks to everyone!

At least get a proper cover or case for the board if you don't already.

Update:
I ordered the lights and after 1 week I still hadn't received any notification if the lights had been shipped/backordered etc... I sent the company an email stating my concern and received an email with a tracking number. There was some confusion as to where the lights where coming from. First I was told China, then from the US warehouse. Once I started tracking the package it was indeed coming from China.
The lights arrived safe and once again in good packaging. Unpack all the lights for inspection and all is good, no dings, no loose screws. Power everything up and all works. The following weekend I set everything up on the T-bars and start to program and here is where I start to look for colour discrepancies as we all hear "The colours won't match on knockoffs, they don't dim properly, they flicker". I can 100% confirm that all lights have the same brightness, colour and all work as they should.

Very happy with my purchase and would buy from them again.

Steve, quick question. How were the 9 units packaged? All grouped together in one or two boxes, or was ea light individually shipped?
Just curious on that as my US address charges $5/box.
Thanks. BJ

The first (2) issues listed were experienced using the surface. The others using the iPad.

No power issues at the venue.

I did find a service center in Doraville Ga that I will be contacting. I’ve had a bout with Covid this week so I am running behind.

My day job had unreal growth this year and I am finding that I have less available time to do any repairs myself, and my list of “want to dos” around the house are far exceeding my available time. So off to Doraville hopefully this board will go.

As far as removing the board after each show to be stored, we are using analog snakes and have a DAW station, a separate Tascam, etc. not to mention I am not at every show so I would constantly be on the phone explaining to someone what that need to do to get __ working. If I can get 6 to 7 years of use before repairs in our abusive environment I am not going to complain. I mean I do wish that I had the gumption to want to take that kind of care of the board, but that is not my reality.

I will post whatever I am told by the service center.

Thanks to everyone!

Behringer analog stuff is crap for the most part and that crossover has a bunch of fiddly buttons to change the operation modes, easy to get wrong or change.

Your PA2 has a base line preset for stereo bi-amp to get you in the starting ballpark configuration.

Their DI rack is pretty decent and has served me well as has their FCB1010 midi foot controller.  Their analog mixers are pure unadulterated CRAP.  Bought 3 broke 3 all in 6 months.

I haven't had any experience with their cross-overs, but a cross-over is a pretty simple thing.  Seems like they do OK on simple analog things, and X-Based digital mixers .  YMMV.