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Sound Reinforcement - Forums for Live Sound Professionals - Your Displayed Name Must Be Your Real Full Name To Post In The Live Sound Forums => SR Forum Archives => LAB Subwoofer FUD Forum Archive => Topic started by: Eric Wong! on May 15, 2004, 10:46:28 AM
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I am planning on building 2 labsubs sometime in the next 2 months. This will be for DJ and in the house use. Occasional SR use. This may also replace 2 EV Sb180 subs, but the lab subs are larger then the EV subs so I may wind up keeping them.
I really want to keep the 5000vz cause its awesome saying I have one of the most powerful amps ever produced. But is this overkill for the labsub?
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One LAB per side would be a perfect match. The cabs have a nominal impedance of somewhere around 3 ohms, and the 5k would put out roughly somewhere around 2000w into each of them.
There are dudes that put one bridged PLX3400 on 1 LAB, delivering over 3000w, and they're fine.
I'd say your biggest concern will be stopping the DJ's from blowing everything up!
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Sounds good. Perhaps I was mistakening the servodrive as it only needs 400 watts or so. The only person who would be using this setup is me and if people have covered outdoor events with only 2 LAB's then dang, my gigs arent THAT big.
On second thought I may sell the EV subs since it sounds like these LAB's will completely blow them out of the water. While EV speakers (tops) are pretty good I did read somewhere on this or the LABlounge that theres some dislike of EV subs. I sort of agree with them, the EVX-180B driver doesnt seem like its all that its cracked up to be. It only has 6 mm of excursion or so and its reverse scoop design has too much outputin the upper midbass .
I was looking at the dimensions for a LAB, have people put casters on that angled part in the rear to make it sort of a "grab, tilt and roll" type setup for easy transport? If so, that would be wonderful.
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yes, alot have made it like the old ampeg 8x10 cab, which is what we re doing with ours. go to the lab sub forum and read through the archives. you ll also see at the top of the page the link to the cad drawings.
yea the crown would be great. but you ll want to get yourself a dbx 260 so you can get proper time alignment between the labs and the tops. the next problem you ll mostlikely run across is keeping hte tops up with the labs. you ll probably want 2 ev tops per side to one lab per side. yes they are that efficient.
have fun n good sound
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Sounds good- i'm getting excited here. It cant take anywhere near as long as my car audio fiberglass sub box I did. Dang that thing took forever and it was messy. here all the dimensions and angles are already labled. Ah yeah. Even better I was looking at the dimensions of the thing and its the perfect height to stack speakers ontop of.
From what I've gathered so far- I do plan on getting a drive rack sometime but for the time being I may just settle for a time delay placed on the outputs of one of the Ashly XR2001's outs.
Forgive my ignorance I am not familiar with the Ampeg bass units. I used to have a CerwinVega LR36 it was a folded horn setup remotely similarly to the LABsub and I really liked its grab bar and tilt on wheels. The wheels were attached to the lower in the rear that was 45 degrees and part of that 'horn.'
Further- has anybody put a tripod mount on the top so you can elevate top speakers even higher?
1 More question- the access panel is that plexiglass, or metal or what?
OK so for me personally this is my plan:
baltic birch construction
I plan to finish it with pickup truck bedliner, it should be tough and black haha
Heck I might even get some $ back by the time I sell the EV subs and build these.
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[quote title=Eric wrote
1 More question- the access panel is that plexiglass, or metal or what?
/quote]
That is a 1/4" aluminum plate used, I don't think the Plexiglas would of worked too well due to the amount of sound pressure being built up in the chamber. Unlike a car sub woofer the Lab horns generate way higher SPL's thus making Plexiglas not much of an option & I am not sure if you would want to risk a failure in the Plexiglas during a gig.
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I would definitely stick with the metal access covers. I note that Brad Litz is going to use wooden covers on his v3.0 sub but he is using it for home theatre so shouldn't get any heat problems as they are not going to be driven constantly. If you are using them for gigs you will get a significant reduction in performance if you don't have some way for the heat to get out of the compression chambers.
Phil
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Yes, I would definitely use aluminum covers for Pro Sound applications. Aluminum conducts heat WAY better than wood. I once had a pair of home made Klipsch corner horns with pro audio woofers installed. They quit working late one night and when we opened the wood access covers my friend got a big burn on his hand from the magnet assembly.
I designed my cabinets to flush mount 1/4" aluminum covers, but as mentioned, I am using stepped 3/4" wood covers for home use.
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Whats the best way to get that aluminum piece made, and where to get the aluminum stock?
I havent looked for wood or prices yet though..ive been busy i hope i can start and finish this soon.
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1/4" aluminum plate should be easy to find in "cut-off" size pieces at metal shops or metal suppliers. You should be able to cut a reasonable circle with a hand skill saw and finish it by hand with a file. Drill at least a dozen holes around the perimiter and screw it on.
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Sounds good. I guess to make the flush mount area just take a router, route it down 1/4" then use machine T nuts to secure?
How much does this thing weigh anyway? Im assuming 150 lbs?
I know theres a FAQ but its pretty basic, just like whats the dimensions etc. Once I'm done this I plan to write an FAQ, or if somebody else can fill in some FAQ questions.
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I believe the finsished weight for the tour version is 220-lbs. Still no luck finding the cut list. Just this pict: