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Author Topic: Which ones to build? 2-LABhorn, 4-Tuba36, or 4-Tuba30  (Read 7492 times)

Chris Coleman 2

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Re: Which ones to build? 2-LABhorn, 4-Tuba36, or 4-Tuba30
« Reply #10 on: March 29, 2006, 12:28:51 pm »

Peter Golde:
Quote:

I would put my pair of Tuba30s up against any box on the planet of equal size, including a single Lab.


You're in arizona??  It would be really cool if you would do a shootout between your pair of Tuba30's and a nearby guy's LAB. Maybe there's guys in LA or even in Arizona.  Record the spectrum sweep data and do some A/B of some different music styles... outside in the desert would be perfect.. 100W at 10meters.. that would rock.. and help other guys here to decide what to build.

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peter.golde

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Re: Which ones to build? 2-LABhorn, 4-Tuba36, or 4-Tuba30
« Reply #11 on: March 30, 2006, 11:15:14 am »

I ran a pair of Labs outdoors, half space, I ran DR250's on top, very efficient horn loaded design. The sound was balanced with recorded music, I think we played some Tool at full power. The 250 needed everything from the pair of Labs. I know with 4 Labs the output is much greater, but a pair is less impresssive outdoors. Still better than a pair of dual 18's, more powerful and much cleaner with better extension.
When I mentioned wide variety of drivers for the Tuba36, I mean to say there are a few very important parameters that matter, Fs, Xmax, Xmech, Bl, the rest are less important and make little or no difference. This allows me to get the same performance from a pair of 15" Audiopile drivers as the Emminence Magnum, up to a point, the Magnum will be take much more abuse, but you pay three times the price. Depends totally on your application.

If I were building more Labs for heavy outdoor use, I would use a minimum of 4.
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peter.golde

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Re: Which ones to build? 2-LABhorn, 4-Tuba36, or 4-Tuba30
« Reply #12 on: March 30, 2006, 11:21:23 am »

I am all for it. I dont have the software and mics yet to do this kind of testing, hope to very soon.
If anyone in the area is interested, I am providing for an outdoor DJ event on April 29th in Chandler,AZ using a pair of Tuba30's powered by a Peavey 4080Hz, and a pair of DR250 tops powered by an EV P1250.


http://www.nightowlent.com/mainmenu.html

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"You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer" - Frank Zappa

Chris Coleman 2

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Re: Which ones to build? 2-LABhorn, 4-Tuba36, or 4-Tuba30
« Reply #13 on: March 30, 2006, 02:00:01 pm »

peter.golde

a pair of DR250 tops


Did you build those dr250's?  

Why did you decide to go with them versus the dr280's or dr300's ??

peter.golde

I ran a pair of Labs outdoors, half space, I ran DR250's on top, very efficient horn loaded design. The sound was balanced with recorded music, I think we played some Tool at full power. The 250 needed everything from the pair of Labs.


Do you think the dr280's or dr300's would have easily overwhelmed the pair of LABs ??
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peter.golde

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Re: Which ones to build? 2-LABhorn, 4-Tuba36, or 4-Tuba30
« Reply #14 on: March 30, 2006, 09:41:16 pm »

Did you build those dr250's?
Yes I was on the builders list for Bill Fitzmaurice before I moved to AZ.

Why did you decide to go with them versus the dr280's or dr300's ??
The 280 and 300 were not yet available

Do you think the dr280's or dr300's would have easily overwhelmed the pair of LABs ??
No, the 280 has similar output to the 250, but has a larger mouth area, so it loads better down lower. The 300 is a different animal, horn loads to 80Hz and narrower dispersion, like 60 deg vs the 250 at 120 deg. The DR boxes have amazing midbass punch and clarity. They will not outrun a pair of Labs (assuming you have a few kw per Lab available), but will combine nicely.
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"You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer" - Frank Zappa

Chris Coleman 2

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Re: Which ones to build? 2-LABhorn, 4-Tuba36, or 4-Tuba30
« Reply #15 on: March 31, 2006, 09:39:54 am »

peter.golde

No, the 280 has similar output to the 250, but has a larger mouth area, so it loads better down lower. The 300 is a different animal, horn loads to 80Hz and narrower dispersion, like 60 deg vs the 250 at 120 deg. The DR boxes have amazing midbass punch and clarity. They will not outrun a pair of Labs (assuming you have a few kw per Lab available), but will combine nicely.


Which DR would you build if you were building them today to go with your subs ??

And... which other DIY mid/high box, apart from the DR series, would you consider building ??

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peter.golde

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Re: Which ones to build? 2-LABhorn, 4-Tuba36, or 4-Tuba30
« Reply #16 on: March 31, 2006, 11:18:03 am »

There aren't many boxes horn loaded from 80Hz to over 800Hz. Walt's XTRO seems expensive and a complex build. I have been playing with hornresp with ideas about a dual 10 or 12 horn box for that range and a DDS horn on top with a B&C Driver. The box ends up pretty large, been done before, not very practical. Danley has got the shit, his boxes are almost impossible in DIY approach, the xovers and physical placement of drivers and holes are very complex. The DR300 is a real bang for the buck horn, even as a midbass, and is very portable relative to it's performance.
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"You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer" - Frank Zappa

Craig Leerman

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Re: Which ones to build? 2-LABhorn, 4-Tuba36, or 4-Tuba30
« Reply #17 on: April 01, 2006, 07:39:47 pm »

Quote:

I would put my pair of Tuba30s up against any box on the planet of equal size, including a single Lab. The only ones that would give it any competetion would probably be someones DIY, I am not sure if Danley has a box that small, but if he does, it would be interesting.



Danley has a few small boxes in their product line already, and some more coming soon.

Their LAB SIZE touring box is the TH-115. I have heard 4 of these together and they are fantastic!  Singly, they are conservativly rated from 28 - 280 Hz @ -10.  

In the "small" range, Danley's TH-112 is only 38" H, 18" W, and 30" D.

 http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/downloads/Danley_TH-112_Spec_ Sheet.pdf

In the "VERY SMALL" range the TH-28 is only 20.5" H, 30.5" W, and 11" D. There is a relocatable output port so you can use the sub standing up, or laying down for only an 11" high unit!

 http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/downloads/Danley_TH-28_Spec_S heet.pdf

In addition, I have been told that they have a new smaller lower cost single 15" subwoofer that will be introduced at the next trade show they will be participating in.  Its supposed to be a little smaller than the TH-112.   No specs are on their site yet.
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I'm so old, when I was doing FOH for Tommy Dorsey, to balance out the horn section I would slide their chairs downstage and upstage to mix!


Craig Leerman

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Re: Which ones to build? 2-LABhorn, 4-Tuba36, or 4-Tuba30
« Reply #18 on: April 01, 2006, 07:58:56 pm »

Quote:

The way I priced them the Lab will cost about $12.00 more than the T36/24"

The drives for Lab are $146 each and need two = $292.00
The (recommended)driver for T36/24" wide is $282.00

best I can tell both take about 3 - 4 X 8 sheets although the t36 uses some of it 1/2". The best price I can find it is only one dollar different in price.


At first, I thought the same as you -- build two for the price of one. That made the decision easier. Now that they are the same price I don't know which to build.



You need to recalculate a little.

First, A Lab is designed to be build from 3/4 BALTIC TYPE VOID FREE BIRCH, not standard plywood. Baltic Birch does not usually come in 4X8 sheets, but instead comes in 5X5 sheets. To build a lab will require about 6-7 sheets depending on how well you layout the job.  Plywood prices fluctuate, and are different in many parts of the country.  But on average,  you will pay WAY MORE for a 5X5 sheet of BALTIC than you will for a 4X8 sheet of GOOD PLYWOOD from a lumberyard/home center.

Second, the LAB has to use heavy but thin SIDE PLATE COVERS. The original design called for Aluminum plates, but some folks have used other materials. 4 Aluminum plates cut to size can run a few hundred bucks.

Last, the LAB is harder to build!  Even experienced woodworkers have posted on here about how hard it is to layout and build the throat modules.  If you figure in your time or the cost of your time, the LAB will take significantly more time to build than a Tuba.

When you factor in all the real costs, you can basically get 2 Tubas for the price of 1 LAB SUB.

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I'm so old, when I was doing FOH for Tommy Dorsey, to balance out the horn section I would slide their chairs downstage and upstage to mix!


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