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[jeffhtg (Jeff Kenney)]

I know this has been beat to death with a stick.. but pretty much all anyone - myself included has said is "this is how it works for me".. I would kinda like to revist this and get some more debates going on. heh.

I've used several configurations.. And im about to try the rmx1850HD bridged to 1 sub.. my concerns with this is all rmx is made in china and throw away when broke right? how does an RMX hold up compared to a PLX/PL? Bob you around on that one? For that matter is a RMX1850HD going to play bass better than a PLX because of the switching powersupply and smaller rail capacities? Is the rmx5050HD a better choice to run stereo than a single bridged 1850HD? Should we be concerned about 35hz 3ohm 0 phase or 75ish? Will a bridged amp see this and can it hurt it over long periods of playing hard? at around 500$-650ish a sub to power this is the most cost effective.

My current favorite configuration is a vz5000 stereo 1 lab per side.. run it right up to .1% lights up.. sounds damn good.. shakes the hell out of things miles away.. sounds great amps dont get hot.. however its not very price efficient 2500$ an amp thats 1250$ per lab to power it. I have NOT yet tried to run 2 labs per side.. however I can imagine it just wont be enuff.. I could be wrong.. If someone swears enuff that its good ill check it out

I know there are many amps that will get the job done or sound good.. so its mostly a configuration issue.. 1 smaller/cheap amp per lab seems to be a pretty common setup.. alot of people here use rmx/plx that way and alot swear by them.. I guess by the time you add cable and wear the 3ohm thing isnt much of an issue at the few spots it may occur with a sine wave right? I guess im just looking for a more touring friendly setup.. i have a feeling the best way is something like a PL9.0 or some other monster to run 4.. but at 3500$ an amp 800-900$ a sub to power isnt terrible but its also not great.

Another thing.. is all this talk about 3ohm minimum.. well most pro cabinets are rated at nominal correct?? so what does say.. a double 18 JBL 2241 hit minimum?? or a pair of earthquakes.. dcs2's.. etc etc..

I think all of us are looking for the same thing.. longevity, efficency, and good sound.

[Michael_Elliston¶]

Another thing.. is all this talk about 3ohm minimum.. well most pro cabinets are rated at nominal correct?? so what does say.. a double 18 JBL 2241 hit minimum?? or a pair of earthquakes.. dcs2's.. etc etc..

I think all of us are looking for the same thing.. longevity, efficency, and good sound.[/quote]

Youd have to measure them to see exactly what happens.

[Elliot Thompson]

jeffhtg wrote on Mon, 06 June 2005 20:59

My current favorite configuration is a vz5000 stereo 1 lab per side.. run it right up to .1% lights up.. sounds damn good..

Just to let you know all Macrotech's IOC lights instensifies
at 0.05% THD. Thats why it still sounds good to you when
the lights flicker. You are not clipping the amplifier.

Quote:

I guess im just looking for a more touring friendly setup.. i have a feeling the best way is something like a PL9.0 or some other monster to run 4.. but at 3500$ an amp 800-900$ a sub to power isnt terrible but its also not great.

If you want a tour friendly setup, your going to need to
invest in tour friendly gear. Have you forgotten about the
used market? You can get some great used tour friendly gear,
that will open more doors, than, Mi Grade new gear that will
slam the door in your face.

Its going be hard to find a new QSC 9.0 (Discontinued a few
years ago) muchless a used one. The QSC PL 6.0 II is their
biggest amp in the QSC line.

Quote:

Another thing.. is all this talk about 3ohm minimum.. well most pro cabinets are rated at nominal correct?? so what does say.. a double 18 JBL 2241 hit minimum??

You can contact JBL for an impedance chart, or scale the box
in a speaker cabinet program to find out. Its a matter of reverse engineering.

Best Regards,

[Phil Pope]

one thing worth noting about a bass reflex design compared to a horn is that in the BR design the impedance minimum is right in the middle of the operating range whereas in a horn design the minima are at the bottom and top of the operating range with some very large peaks within the operating range too.

I am just about to start on a horn that will have an impedance minimum of about 2.3ohms.  If the amp's protection circuitry cuts in due to the low DC resistance then I guess I will have to try higher impedence drivers but I don't think music program material will over-heat the power supply.

Phil