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Author Topic: Need help with this...  (Read 6108 times)

Michael_Elliston¶

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Re: Need help with this...
« Reply #30 on: June 10, 2005, 11:12:23 pm »

Justin Lawless wrote on Sat, 11 June 2005 14:23

  its using a model, i dont have the equipment to measure it for RTA. i do know this, with what it sounds like in person, i would say the model is close, its just using Hornresp so. but like i said, in person, i would say in personal opinion its modeling pretty accurate. at first i played it inside, and then after puting about 700 or 800 watts into the driver, i decided to take it out side because i decided the windows couldnt take much more. but we took it outside and i was able to get 1,200watts into it safely without damage. and ill tell ya, it was about the same as it was when it was inside at that point and it kicks hella hard. i would say it would be safe to say i could keep throwing 1,200watts maximume witch is 200watt over its rms. but ill keep it at or below the rms. witch reminds me, id like to make a LED power meter for this so i can measure the powerinput to the horn by the hundread to 1000. and then have a 1200watt LED and i want to try to get it so if it stays solid for too long, a braker or fuise goes off so it protects the driver from over powering. any thoughts?


Easy in theory,difficult in practise.
see VU and PPM
www.sound.westhost.com

Question : if you set your gains correctly,wont it be fine?

Aslong as the real unit is being modeled correctly,hornresp seems to stand up quite well.

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Justin Lawless

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Re: Need help with this...
« Reply #31 on: June 11, 2005, 12:45:51 pm »

  ya i think i had it about right, the low end starts cuting out at about 28Hz, well thats good for my standerds (35hz no lower then 100dB at 1W/1M) and stands pretty good, almost gets to that point where you can only here a rumble, somthing around 25-30hz. thats one reason why i had to take it outside, because it was shaking the windows toomuch. but ya i spent much time trying to make sure i had everything just right and it seems to be prety damn close Smile .
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Ivan Beaver

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Re: Need help with this...
« Reply #32 on: June 12, 2005, 07:01:49 pm »

Justin Lawless wrote on Fri, 10 June 2005 22:23

  i want to try to get it so if it stays solid for too long, a braker or fuise goes off so it protects the driver from over powering. any thoughts?

Trying to protect speakers (espically woofers) is a real challenge.  Fuse offer two problems.  If you use a fast blow (it will defanitly protect the driver) the damping factor will be lower for the system and you will blow fuses VERY often.  A slow-blow will raise the damping factor and you will not go through as many fuses.  Choosing the right value is VERY hard.  If you choose the rating based on driver wattage and impedance (calculate current) you will not be able to get the most out of the system, because you are limiting the peaks (by blowing fuses) which the speaker would otherwise be able to handle.

Circuit breakers are another issue.  You still have to figure which value you want to use and hope it is available).  They offer a longer time before blowing (ie greater peaks can pass safely), but they tend to blow at less and less current over time.  One idea that I had many years ago and did not persue properly, was to use a self-resetting circuit breaker in parallel with a large lamp ( I was planning on using ACL's), this pair in series with the speaker.  That way if the circuit breaker blew-the lamp would still allow sound to go to the speaker-although it would be a compressed signal (therefore giving the operator an idea to turn it down).  When the breaker cooled down it would re-engage and the level would pop up.  Since I was a reconer, it was not that big a deal to simply recone the speaker.  I always wanted the max available for my systems.  It is an idea you can try however.

In your calculations be sure to use the measured impedance of the speaker in the cabinet.  It is almost always higher than the rated impedance of the speaker alone. Sometimes twice depending on the loading of the horn.
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For every complicated question-there is a simple- easy to understand WRONG answer.

Can I have some more talent in the monitors--PLEASE?

Ivan Beaver
dB Audio & Video Inc.
Danley Sound Labs

Justin Lawless

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Re: Need help with this...
« Reply #33 on: June 12, 2005, 10:47:34 pm »

  sounds simular to some ideas i was thinking about, i was thinking of having somtype of cool down failsafe. mabey having a failsafe light to turn on (incase i cant tell the diffrence that a singal driver has gone out while the rest are fine). i remember a freind of mine has these older house hold speakers. my guess is thier about 100-150watt each and running at 8ohm. not exactly sure what brand it is, but its got these small cast iron labals with the letters "RTR" on them. when my freinds dad had gotten them, he had spent over $1,500 during the time they were sold. and on the back of these "RTR"s they had a small failsafe on them, where if overpowered, a push pin would pop in the back and the speaker would cut off. thats somthing like i was thinking about. any thoughts?
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Ivan Beaver

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Re: Need help with this...
« Reply #34 on: June 13, 2005, 04:56:42 pm »

That is jsut a simple circuit breaker-again how to choose the correct value to get the most out of the speaker without the breaker tripping all the time.
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For every complicated question-there is a simple- easy to understand WRONG answer.

Can I have some more talent in the monitors--PLEASE?

Ivan Beaver
dB Audio & Video Inc.
Danley Sound Labs
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