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[Kemper Watson]

After clicking aroung the Peavey web site, I believe the CS800 as we knew them are history, The new CS800 listed is a whole new animal, nothing like the 3 I own.

[John Roberts {JR}]

LOL... If you want to have a chuckle, call up service and say you need some replacement parts for your CS800.... Ummm which one?

I've heard rumors that in some SA countries CS800 is generic for "power amp"... of course that was years ago, but I remember in central Mexico hearing from dealers that it was nicknamed "el burro" (the mule).

I can't speculate on the new one... your guess is as good as mine.

JR

[Kemper Watson]

Really, I hope I can still get the front plastic cover for an 800X. Mine's broken and looks like it fell off a truck (it did) Still works like a charm though. Very robust amps.

[[x]]

So...

I have a Peavey CS-800 that has the cast aluminum face plate. At least I think it's aluminum, but it's definitely some cast metal. The Peavey lettering and all the trim is gray but the rest is black, and it looks really ghetto. It just says Peavey CS-800, and has switches and knobs on the front. I think it is the one that is just set up to drive 4 ohm loads. Could this be bridged into 4 ohms?

[Bud Bolf]

 Hi,
Just wanted to chime in and say that Peavey is the best
when it comes to Parts. I have ordered parts for my 70's PV 700S
Mixer and Bass Head, and Speaker Cabs, I never have had a problem!
They keep Parts for Everything! No other Manuf. is like that!!!!
Thanks,
  Bud

[Elliot Thompson]

BHFProfessional wrote on Fri, 29 April 2005 12:06

So... I have a Peavey CS-800 that has the cast aluminum face plate. At least I think it's aluminum, but it's definitely some cast metal. The Peavey lettering and all the trim is gray but the rest is black, and it looks really ghetto. It just says Peavey CS-800, and has switches and knobs on the front. I think it is the one that is just set up to drive 4 ohm loads. Could this be bridged into 4 ohms?

In one word, no.

Peavey CS 800 4 rack space = 8 ohm bridged mono minimum

Peavey CS 800 3 rack space = 8 ohm bridged mono minimum

Peavey CS 800X 3 rack space = 4 ohms bridged mono minimum

Peavey CS 800S 2 rack space = 4 ohms bridged mono minimum

Best Regards,

[John Roberts {JR}]

Elliot's list is accurate regarding minimum impedance. One change that doesn't show up on data sheets is duty cycle or continuous power handling. The old 4U CS800 weighed a lot more because of heavier power transformer and heat sinks. It would put out it's full power somewhat longer than the newer smaller lighter models. The transformers are not that simple to compare just by weight since the "S" used switching technology and the new one may (I don't know for a fact) use toroid vs. EI.

The heat sinks have also evolved somewhat with less mass but more airflow to compensate. The most obvious pair to note is the transition between 3U CS800 and CS800X. The primary difference is recalibrating output current limiting for 2 ohm minimum, and protecting the power transformer with a thermal breaker. The "X" will put out exactly the same amount of average power as the previous model, it just allows you to pull it faster (1200W vs 800W).

The success of this strategy is precisely because music is not continuous tones but a dynamic mix of peaks and lulls. As the power market has matured value amps with less duty cycle and serious pro amps with more duty cycle capability have found their market niches.

I would love to see this metric (duty cycle) quantified although I fear the unintended consequence that amp designers will maximize their designs for whatever this standard test signal becomes. A good thing if the test signal is representative of your needs, no so good if not.

JR  

[Ivan Beaver]

Actually it can, BUT the power will drop to 600 watts @4 ohm bridged.  It is rated for 300 watt/channel @ 2 ohms.  Also the damping will be halved (due to bridging).  I would not recommend it, even though you can do it safely.  That old model is the one that you can drive into a shorted load with no problem (see my earlier post).  The power delivered to the load just keeps going down.

[John Roberts {JR}]

Ivan Beaver wrote on Fri, 29 April 2005 19:33

Actually it can, BUT the power will drop to 600 watts @4 ohm bridged.  It is rated for 300 watt/channel @ 2 ohms.  Also the damping will be halved (due to bridging).  I would not recommend it, even though you can do it safely.  That old model is the one that you can drive into a shorted load with no problem (see my earlier post).  The power delivered to the load just keeps going down.

Sure you can hook it up that way but it will current limit because it was designed for 4 ohms min. I have heard of some folks going back in and changing the current limit values because it was conservatively designed, but it was designed for 4 ohms min... Trust me, I didn't design it but I know Jack....... Sondermeyer (the designer) and he didn't have 2 ohms on his radar screen in those days.

Regarding driving a short circuit, any modern amplifier that's worth it's salt should heat up your screwdriver, or shorting implement of choice, before hurting itself. This is a routine QA test during production, because customers short outputs all the time and despite the "justice" in releasing smoke they would only deny that they did it and blame the manufacturer, so shorting the output is no big deal.

Some of the new kids on the block may not have this "detail" figured out, and I recall one home brew A-B test box that would inadvertently short the amps during switching that managed to blow up more than one competitor's amp, but I repeat... AFAIK this is or should be pretty standard for all amps. Short the output and it will get hot, then shut down. (Boys and girls... this isn't license to go do that... only you should be able to tolerate such mistakes when they happen without catastrophe.)

JR

PS.. FWIW I've heard sundry anecdotal reports of mistakenly running CS amps into 1 ohm loads and not realizing until after the show... Of course I don't advise ever running below the rated impedance.

[Ivan Beaver]

I never ran mine below 4 ohms (and never had a failure of any of mine).  The 2 ohm I was refering to come straight out of the owners manual (or spec sheet-something like that-it was from peavey)  It is obivious by the reduction in output power that this is not a wise configuration.  I don't reccomend it either.