Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Ted White]

I'm using 18mm Birch 13 ply and getting chipout. I have a 40 tooth carbide table saw blade. Great blade for wood, wondering if I should move to a specialty blade for the ply.

I'm getting that needle-like chip out that you expect with Birch, but want to minimize it.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Ted

[John Halliburton]

There certainly are more appropriate blades for cutting baltic birch plywood(and other types).  Typically I use a 60 tooth ATB grind blade(for a 10" diameter blade).  This seems to give me the best combination of smooth cut vs. speed.  Two other very important accessories to get are blade stabilizers and a "Zero clearance" table saw inserts.

For inserts, here is one of the makers:
http://www.internationaltool.com/leecraft.htm

You can make your own from thinner baltic birch plywood or machinable plastic like LeeCraft.  I feel it's almost a wash vs. what the LeeCraft ones cost.

Blade stabilizers can be found at:
www.woodcraft.com

I made an insert for my dado set from some baltic birch, and I can't stress enough about how much cleaner cuts are-very little blowout. They also make miter cuts much straighter.

I would consider special inserts for the miter cuts as well, they will just be cleaner. The stabilizers will make a cheap blade better, but I never compromise when buying blades.  I have had very good results with Freud, and my dado set is a Systematic.  I have seen good reviews on DeWalt's new table saw blades, and everybody has great things to say about Forrest saw blades, although I have not used either.

Best regards,

John Halliburton

[Ted White]

Hi John,

Thanks a lot. Actually I was able to find a 60 tooth carbide crosscut as you suggested. I only have a 8 1/2" table saw.

I'm using a sled, so zero clearance is out for now. No matter, the edges get buried in a dado groove or covered in epoxy.

Thanks for the recommendations!

Ted

[Brad Litz]

I used a Forrest Woodworker II with a blade dampener. No splinters anywhere. Cuts perfectly smooth.

[John Halliburton]

Ted,

Without knowing which saw you're using, I'd suspect that the power behind the 8 1/4" blade is insufficient for really great cuts.  Adequate power behind the blade is another component to good cuts.

Another trick is to score a line through the veneer of the plywood on the underside if you need to have a clean cut.

Best regards,

John

[Too Tall (Curtis H. List)]

Ted White wrote on Sat, 11 December 2004 10:51

I'm using 18mm Birch 13 ply and getting chipout. I have a 40 tooth carbide table saw blade. Great blade for wood, wondering if I should move to a specialty blade for the ply. I'm getting that needle-like chip out that you expect with Birch, but want to minimize it. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ted

>From: "Ted WHite" <tw@chartermi.net>
>To: "Curtis List" <clist@airadv.net>

>Subject: Sawblades
>Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2004 10:47:59 -0500

>Hi Curtis,
>  
>How's the snowy Saturday lookin' to ya?
>  
>Curious what sawblade you fellas use to cut the birch. I'm using a 40 tooth woodworker carbide, but getting a lot of chip out. You're going to get that with Birch, I realize, but I'm wondering about switching blades.
>  
>Any great insights?
>  
>Thanks,
>  
>Ted
>

I use all professional grade blades.
14" combination Freud
10" Planar blade Freud

I can't remember the number of teeth the planar blade has, but it's a lot.
   Its called a "planar" because it cuts so smooth you do not have to put it through a joiner to get rid of teethe marks. It does this by having the carbide inserts over 3/4" long.
   When we cut Baltic Birch with either it looks like it's snowing wood. Very light and no chips at all.
   Of course the saw might have something to do with it. Mine is a 5HP motor.

   Usually you won't get a "rip" or "chip" unless the blade is dull or the ply is very thin. On Birch and Oak doors where the outside ply is thinner then paper you put masking tape where you will cut on the face of the door that goes on the saw (the face you can't see when you are pushing it through). This works if you don't have a "zero clearance" insert like John suggested. Its works for cutting down a few doors, but it's a pain if you have a lot of cutting to do.
Too Tall

[danfowler]

Hi Ted,

I have a 5 H.P. 10" Unisaw. It's as old as I am (40 something)and was made when tools were "keepers" and yes, it weighs half a ton. All cast iron. Heck, the Biesemeyer fence weighs about 50#!
When I cut birch with a new blade, it looks like a laser did it.
Like Too Tall says, not really sawdust, it's more like powder.

More teeth = more horsepower = smoother cuts. Simple as that.
The blade speed needs to stay stable as well as the feed rate.
A blade stabilizer helps since it's more precise than the blade washer, but really good quality blades are the key. The lateral run-out (surface flatness) is almost zero on the good ones. That is hard to achieve since the carbide tips are brazed on and the steel gets a good bit of heat (which shinks it, thereby stressing it). The steel needs to be as stress free as possibe (the expensive stuff) to start with. It takes time to make good blades. You get what you pay for.

Some good blades I've used are Freud, Oldham, Forrest (my favorite), but the selection is limited in 8.5" sizes. Woodworker's Supply (800.645.9292) has a Freud LU91 compound miter blade (48 tooth, -5 degree hook, ATB grind) that looks as good as you'll get. Use DriCote blade lubricant on the new blade, the stuff works. Use it especially on your router bits as well. You'll love the smell to.

The "zero clearance" insert is a must, if possible. Looks like the sled is keeping you from that option.

Try this, take the blade all the way up. Lay a framing square lightly against the end-most carbide teeth and run your fence up to it. Is there run-out or toe-in?
Good news is if the fence can adjust, eliminate it there. Bad news is, on cheaper saw/fences the motor bolts will have to loosened and you take it out that way. A real PITA. Takes two people. Hope your saw is not like that.

stay sharp,
keep your fingers,
make sawdust often.......
rinse and repeat.

Dan 0;)

[Ted White]

Thanks for all of the fabulous replies! I have a cheesy Makita table saw. I could really use a new one. I might try and find a good used one somewhere. Any thoughts anyone?

[Weogo Reed]

Hi Ted and Dan,

I have the little Makita saw and can get good cuts on it.
Sure hate the blade raise/lower setup!

The fence check is important when running against it.

For sled use, you want to check and make sure that the mitergage guide slots are parallel to the blade.

I don't know which one it is, but I have good results with a Freud blade.

Good health,  Weogo

[Jim York]

If you're only using it for plywood you can save a lot of $ by using a fine tooth 8-8.5" blade on your 10" saw instead of a 10" blade. A 40 tooth 8" blade is the equivalent of a 60 tooth 10" blade at a considerable saving.

[Tim Padrick]

40 teeth on an 8.5" blade would be about .67" per tooth or 1.5 teeth per inch.  60 teeth on a 10" saw would be about .52" per tooth or 1.9 teeth per inch - a small advantage to the 10".

At a given arbor speed, the 10" would run the teeth through about 19 percent faster than the 8.5", which would likely give a smoother cut if the feed rate is the same.  I expect that the motor would drag down less with a 10" than with an 8.5", widening the advantage of the 10".