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[Alan Searchwell]

For those of us working with Peter's plans there is a free view/print application available at the following URL:

https://fastcad.com/n-view7.html

Once you've downloaded it you can download the ps_lab.fcw fastcad drawings. This file includes several layers among them, layouts for 18mm plywood, as a matter of fact I think all the drawings on Peter's web site were generated from this one file! The program allows you to display the dimensions in metric or imperial measure. It also allows you to zoom in and print portions of a drawing as well as calculating distances and angles between points. It really opened up a whole new world for me in terms of working with Peter's plans. Only drawback is that I had to fill out their registration form but hey, if they want to call me or send me junk mail it'll cost THEM and I really have found the software useful.

I was supposed to start making sawdust on Friday at a friends workshop but hurricane Ivan had different plans. Damage around my location wasn't very bad so the phones have been working all along and I've got water, power and cable tv back already with Internet being the last service to return to normal just this evening! I guess you could say I've been really lucky. Once we get power back at the workshop and I get the first one done I can report on the handles, wheels, T- nuts etc.

[Chris Parsons]

Thanks for that info!

[Chris Parsons]

I just got my LAB 12 drivers in! WOO HOO!


...now I just need to build the cabs  

[Chris Parsons]

It begins...

I've got baffles under glue right now.  I'm about to get the other module peices cut but I want to double check some things.  

Module peices, as well as all other internal peices are 21" wide right?  That's what the notes say (V.2).

For the dados that the baffles go into:  The inside of each dado should be 7" apart and centered in the module peices right?  


thanks for dealing with me  


-Chris Parsons

[Al Limberg]

Yep  - dados are cut so the facing surfaces of your baffles are 7" apart.

Carry on!

Al

p.s.  21" is the magic number

[Chris Parsons]

So yesterday I finally finished all four of my baffles.  Then I realized that they were all identical!  DOH!  Well, at least I had enough 1/2" stock to fix the problem.

Tonight I started to glue one of the modules together.  I got everything to fit pretty exact, except for the bottom piece is only flush with the corner of one baffle, not both.  The other side is about a 1/16" off.  Hopefully the expanding qualities of guerrilla glue will solve this problem.  

Biscuit-Joiner... used it for the first time today.  Does anyone have any tips about this tool.  I've got the dewalt type.  When I cut slots on two pieces without moving the guide, the pieces don't line up perfectly flush.  They're about an 1/8" off.  Also, my biggest question is about angled pieces of wood.  Should the biscuits be in straight, or at an angle?  How do you guys approach this?


Thanks to all of you for helping me out here.  

-Chris Parsons

[Too Tall (Curtis H. List)]

 

Chris Parsons wrote on Thu, 07 October 2004 23:24

So yesterday I finally finished all four of my baffles.  Then I realized that they were all identical!  DOH!  Well, at least I had enough 1/2" stock to fix the problem. Tonight I started to glue one of the modules together.  I got everything to fit pretty exact, except for the bottom piece is only flush with the corner of one baffle, not both.  The other side is about a 1/16" off.  Hopefully the expanding qualities of guerrilla glue will solve this problem.   Biscuit-Joiner... used it for the first time today.  Does anyone have any tips about this tool.  I've got the dewalt type.  When I cut slots on two pieces without moving the guide, the pieces don't line up perfectly flush. They're about an 1/8" off.

I have a Porter Cable so it might be slightly different, but the principle is the same.

Typically the guide is set so it is NOT dead center on 3/4" so that you can tell when you put the pieces together with the wrong face up. (This is what you did) In any case when you use the guide you press it up to a surface and then cut the slot. Whatever face you have pushed the guide against should be marked to remind you which surface was used as a reference and which face is "up".

So before picking up the biscuit cutter start by putting the two pieces together without glue the way you want them when your done.

If you are making a right angle joint start by making some "x" marks with a pencil on the edge or end grain near the joint and then on the face of the other piece right next to it.

When you make the biscuit cuts the "guide" must be placed against where these "X" marks are.

This is why you are 1/8" off. You did not pay attention which side of the piece the guide used as a reference.

For doing this kind of work I don't use the guide. I take it off.
I use the bottom of the biscuit cutter as a reference or guide. I place the piece I want to biscuit on a flat surface and place the bottom of the biscuit cutter on the same surface.

If I'm cutting into the edge I lay the piece flat.

If I'm cutting into the face I stand the piece on edge. For the piece standing on edge you must put something behind it as a backstop and to keep it at right angle to the flat surface. Al uses the table saw fence.

So in this case when you cut the biscuit you make sure the "x" marks are face down to the table you are using as a surface. And of course the bottom of the biscuit cutter faces the same table or surface so the distance the biscuit is cut above the table is always the same.

Also if you need to put a piece in the middle of another to make a "T" you can not use the guide.

Chris Parsons wrote on Thu, 07 October 2004 23:24

Also, my biggest question is about angled pieces of wood.  Should the biscuits be in straight, or at an angle?  How do you guys approach this? Thanks to all of you for helping me out here.   -Chris Parsons

Unless it is a 45-degree angle you do not use a biscuit cutter. It is possible if you make some kind of custom "fixture" or guide for that particular angle and joint, but its not worth the trouble. Your biscuit cutter SHOULD come with a guide for 45 degrees.

Too Tall

[Brad Litz]

Chris Parsons wrote on Thu, 07 October 2004 22:24

The other side is about a 1/16" off.  Hopefully the expanding qualities of guerrilla glue will solve this problem.

Gorilla glue has almost no strength when expanded to the point that it foams in a gap, however, it will provide a good air seal.

[Chris Parsons]

Problem:

I installed the horizontal flare pieces on one module tonight.  It was the most difficult part of the project so far.  I made a mistake with their placement.  I lined them up flush with the front of the module and not the side.  I hope that makes sense.  
Is this a big deal?  What affect will it have on performance?  

Thanks!

[Chris Parsons]

bump