Mad Mixer wrote on Mon, 26 April 2004 16:33 |
So the band got a crossover and apparently the instructions aren't enough for me cuz here I am. First off we purchased a cx2310 behringer. It's 2 way stereo 3 way mono with a seperate sub woofer input. Right now I run 3 way mono and have the jbl 18's plugged in to the low input, 15's for mid and the 12's for the high's. I'm wondering if I should plug my subs into the sub woofer input instead of the low input or if there's even a difference at all.
Also my Yamaha S115IV's say crossover at 1.7 KHz. should I just go with that. And one last thing is the frequency response of the S115IV's is from 55 Hz to 16 KHz. and on my Yamaha s12e's the frequency response is 65 Hz. to 14 KHz. To me it seems the 15's would make better tops. Should I leave them set up the way they are, switch them over and have the 12's for the mids or just run the subs and the 15's and ditch the 12's.
...................Thanks Reggie...............................
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Reggie,
I have one of those crossovers and I think they are the best bang for the buck new under $200, especially at $80 ;>)
You have a combined problem. First, you should NOT use a 2 way cab as a mid cab NOR should use a 2 way cab designed for mids & highs as a high cab WITH the other 2 way. The Yamaha IV series have a horn driver that is MUCH better than the E has, one of the reasons it costs 2/5rds more. NEITHER are bi-ampable from the factory so you can't avoid going via the internal crossovers. Lots of other reasons, too much to waste bandwidth, not worth rewiring for that.
Relagate the S12Es as a practice PA, monitor duty, or as delayed cabinets out in the crowd for an outdoor venue.
Simply use the S115IVs over the subs. You'll have MUCH better highs in this case. That means CLEARER vocals, since the horn driver is carrying most of the vocals. Let the Yammy internal passive crossover do it's job, it's fairly effecient AND effective.
Next, the crossover. Select 2 way stereo mode. Use one side IF you want a mono system or both sides for stereo. Select the lower range (X1 on BACK) for the high/low frequency selector knob. Turn that to about 100Hz to start with (both sides for stereo). Turn the Mono Summed Sub out frequency knob to as low as it goes. Otherwise it will act as a low CUT filter sending the frequencies below that to an unused output. (Yes, you CAN use it as such.) CAREFULLY check the multiple use silkscreened markers for the mode you select. Use the (stereo mode) HIGH output to the Yamaha tops and the LOW output to the JBL 18" subs. The CX2310 is the one cheap crossover than has the range to do this. There you have it, a simple tops to subs split out.
Yes, the high/low frequency knob isn't as well marked for this range as desired. But you should further tune the crossover frequency by ear or pink noise or, better, both, for the best sound ESPECIALLY with mismatched brand speakers. Don't know about the JBLs but Yamaha had a PASSIVE (yup, passive) standalone crossover for the IV series that was at 90Hz. I would NOT go above 120Hz crossing with your speakers. Keep in mind the output levels will affect the "apparent" heard crossover point from the SPL summation around the crossover point. So that will affect the heard sound, along with the fact that subs are often less effecient than tops, it just takes more power to hear lower frequencies, AND the tops aren't wasting power or cone range with those lower freqs going to the subs. And variations between the sub and tops' amps at to that.
Settings on MY CX2310 (pros bear with me, cobbed together bar band system SLOWLY being upgraded):
Previously, OLD, OLD, (did I mention, OLD!) Peavey SP2 tops powered with 235 watts each, Behringer B1800X subs powered with 500 watts each, Crossed at 105Hz, Crossover outputs set with high out 4dB down.
Currently, NEW Yorkville U15 tops, same subs, same amps but the U15 is 4 ohm for 350 watts to each, dropped crossover freq to 85-90Hz.
And for those in the know (OH, MY, those U15s underpowered! but so are the subs!) New PLX3002 on the way, first on the subs for 700 watts at 8 ohms each (till a PLX3402 or a bridged 1602 is afforded for 800 watts each) and the old sub's amp, RMX2450, to the tops for 650-700 watts each at 4 ohms.
boomerweps