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[Mark Chrysostom]

What's the best way to make the holes bigger? Uni-bit?

[Dave Barnett]

What's the best way to make the holes bigger? Uni-bit?

A Greenlee hole punch would be the "best" way.

[Mark Chrysostom]

What's the best way to make the holes bigger? Uni-bit?

A Greenlee hole punch would be the "best" way.

Well played. What about the best way that costs less than buying a snake with XLR returns?

[Chris Davis]

What's the best way to make the holes bigger? Uni-bit?

Hi, actually I think a uni-bit would probably be just about the worst way.  It seems you wouldn't have any control over the size of the hole, and the end result would be quite variable. 

I'd just get a little box of drill bits from Sears or similar.  It sounds like the "pilot" holes are already drilled for you.  So just match up the correct size drill to what you actually need.

[duane massey]

Definitely a Unibit. Faster, cheaper, and more versatile. I have both, and only use the Greenlee's if I'm working with an electrical box and need a really big hole.

A unibit, or step-bit, drills very precise holes. Not sure why you would think otherwise.

[Mark Chrysostom]

Now, to decide if it's worth the trouble... Thanks homies.

[duane massey]

Jared, it will be worth the trouble. You might even consider installing XLR's next to the TRS connectors and wiring them in parallel if there is room.

[Dennis Awrey]

Well played. What about the best way that costs less than buying a snake with XLR returns?

A Greenlee 15/16" chassis punch is 41.33 at Mouser Electronics...is that going to break the bank? Will you never in your life time need to punch XLR holes again?

[Mark Chrysostom]

Well played. What about the best way that costs less than buying a snake with XLR returns?

A Greenlee 15/16" chassis punch is 41.33 at Mouser Electronics...is that going to break the bank? Will you never in your life time need to punch XLR holes again?

Good point.

I've been doing this (with my own gear) for 4 years now. I haven't needed to punch 15/16" holes yet, but I might in the future...

[Bob Leonard]

Well played. What about the best way that costs less than buying a snake with XLR returns?

A Greenlee 15/16" chassis punch is 41.33 at Mouser Electronics...is that going to break the bank? Will you never in your life time need to punch XLR holes again?

Having been a machinist for over 20 years;
 
1) A larger drill will lead to torn sheetmetal and possibly injury.
 
2) A step drill will work if it's high quality AND has the right size on it.
 
3) A Greenlee punch will last forever, won't hurt you, makes a clean hole, and costs about the same as the step drill.
 
Use the Greenlee punch.

[Mark Chrysostom]

I found the Greenlee punch for under $40.

Harbor Freight has a knockout punch set, but it jumps from 3/4" to 1". Damn.

[Dennis Awrey]

I found the Greenlee punch for under $40.

Harbor Freight has a knockout punch set, but it jumps from 3/4" to 1". Damn.

Even if Harbor Freight had the correct size, you want the Greenlee punch. I purchased my first Greenlee punch in 1977 and it is still going strong

[Mark Chrysostom]

Honestly, if Harbor Freight had it I would absolutely buy it there. Sockets, wrenches, things I use often: no way. Something I may or may not ever need again: sure.

[Dennis Awrey]

Honestly, if Harbor Freight had it I would absolutely buy it there. Sockets, wrenches, things I use often: no way. Something I may or may not ever need again: sure.

Have you heard the term "buy once, cry once"....it applies here.

Also, you are looking for a chassis punch rather than a knock out punch. A chassis punch is measured in actual hole size while a knock out punch is for electrical conduit sizes...a 1/2" conduit connector actually requires a 7/8" hole to mount in  so a 1/2" knock out punch does a 7/8" hole.

[Mark Chrysostom]

Honestly, if Harbor Freight had it I would absolutely buy it there. Sockets, wrenches, things I use often: no way. Something I may or may not ever need again: sure.

Have you heard the term "buy once, cry once"....it applies here.

Also, you are looking for a chassis punch rather than a knock out punch. A chassis punch is measured in actual hole size while a knock out punch is for electrical conduit sizes...a 1/2" conduit connector actually requires a 7/8" hole to mount in  so a 1/2" knock out punch does a 7/8" hole.

I saw that in the specs... Either way, it's not the right size. Greenlee it is.

[duane massey]

Things to consider:

a draw-thru will only be accurate if you already have a 1/2" hole (for the smaller sizes). If you have a larger hole it can be challenging to center the punch in the hole. In this case the existing hole is probably 1/2" already. I can drill a pilot hole (3/16") and then use a good step bit much faster than using a draw-thtu if I am doing multiple holes. And, trust me, I've punched and drilled a lot of holes over the years. Either way will get the job done, just a matter of what you're comfortable with.

[Bob Charest]

A Greenlee 15/16" chassis punch is 41.33 at Mouser Electronics...is that going to break the bank? Will you never in your life time need to punch XLR holes again?

 
Having been a machinist for over 20 years;
 
1) A larger drill will lead to torn sheetmetal and possibly injury.
 
2) A step drill will work if it's high quality AND has the right size on it.
 
3) A Greenlee punch will last forever, won't hurt you, makes a clean hole, and costs about the same as the step drill.
 
Use the Greenlee punch.

+1

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