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Author Topic: Suspending a Small Line Array System... the "proper" way....  (Read 2556 times)

Ryan McLeod

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 Hey All - just as a matter of debate between myself and a few other locals, we've been having some interesting words regarding the "correct" way to connect a fly frame to truss structure for the purposes of suspending a small line array.

In this case, we're talking 4-6 dB Technologies DVA4T boxes with their standard array frame - when purchased from the manufacturer includes anchor pin shackles. The truss is 12" box suspended with Applied Electronics L16 stands or similar.
Chain hoists or motors for the sake of this discussion are out of the question.

The question:    To connect the flyframe to the truss, what method is the "correct" or "best way"?

- a single spanset, in a "basket" around the truss, "looped thru" at one point to prevent slipping, leading to a single point, with the anchor pin shackle conecting at the point on the frame as recomended by the EASE software?
(the issue they had is that the top of the array is rarely "flat" even when EASE says it should be, and the whole array tends to angle to the left or right)


- a single spanset, over the truss looped thru at one point to prevent slipping, leading to TWO points on the frame (somewhat evenly spaced from the EASE recomended single point, each connected with an anchor pin shackle to the frame, one near the front and one near the rear of the frame
(the issue here was that the truss tended to warp slightly, no matter how hard you tried to get it "level" as it's being forced to a position)

- a Proper Trigger clamp with an eye-bolt connection, where the pin of the shackle runs thru the eye of the bolt, conecting to the point on the frame as recomended by the EASE software?
(here the system would again angle itself to he left or right, requiring a tie-back of some kind)

- TWO Proper Trigger clamp with an eye-bolt connection, where the pin of the shackle runs thru the eye of the bolt, conecting to TWO points on the frame
(the issue here again was that the truss tended to warp slightly, no matter how hard you tried to get it "level" as it's being forced to a position)

The Manufacturer (and it appears, none of the manufacturers) make any offical recomendations as to how to do this, at least that I could find..... I am already aware of all of the usual arguements regarding rigging safey, insurance, and the like - I am NOT asking for any official advice, I'm just curious to hear how others would do this if they had to  ;D



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