Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Sean McKinley]

I have four of these cabs and none of the 10-in drivers have output. I'm running in Passive. I've tested the drivers with a 9 volt and they all function. They're the '97 factory original 4 ohm wired in series. All the protection bulbs are good and I could not find any bad solder joints. I also can't find a single repair video on the speakers or a wiring diagram. Any input what I should test for? I feel like this series has been gatekept since day 1.

Edit: added picture of the connectors.
1+ is at the bottom of image.  I didn't do that splicing, it is a solid connection however atrocious. It's the only 1 of 4 with splicing. All are wired the same.

[Riley Casey]

Not familiar with these boxes but if you've tested all of the drivers and the protection have you tested the crossover components? Have you tested continuity from the crossover output + side to the crossover - side to be sure no wires have come loose? Is there a passive / bi-amp switch that could have been moved? It would seem odd that all four boxes have failed in the same way without some change further up the chain.

I have four of these cabs and none of the 10-in drivers have output. I'm running in Passive. I've tested the drivers with a 9 volt and they all function. They're the '97 factory original 4 ohm wired in series. All the protection bulbs are good and I could not find any bad solder joints. I also can't find a single repair video on the speakers or a wiring diagram. Any input what I should test for? I feel like this series has been gatekept since day 1.

[Dave Garoutte]

I have four of these cabs and none of the 10-in drivers have output. I'm running in Passive. I've tested the drivers with a 9 volt and they all function. They're the '97 factory original 4 ohm wired in series. All the protection bulbs are good and I could not find any bad solder joints. I also can't find a single repair video on the speakers or a wiring diagram. Any input what I should test for? I feel like this series has been gatekept since day 1.

Does it have an NL4 input?  If they're bi-amped, they might be on 2+ and 2-.

[Sean McKinley]

Not familiar with these boxes but if you've tested all of the drivers and the protection have you tested the crossover components? Have you tested continuity from the crossover output + side to the crossover - side to be sure no wires have come loose? Is there a passive / bi-amp switch that could have been moved? It would seem odd that all four boxes have failed in the same way without some change further up the chain.

I've tested the drivers, every driver functions. I have not started testing the crossover yet, sitting down figuring which trace would be the LF, assuming the white trace from the NL4.
Is there drop box links or otherwise allowed? Compressing these photos is distorting the image badly to upload others.
It is a biamp passive switched PA. It's set to passive and should be running through all of its internal crossovers. I'm buying a new ohm reader tomorrow harbor freight sent me a coupon yesterday. Water damage.

[Scott Holtzman]

I've tested the drivers, every driver functions. I have not started testing the crossover yet, sitting down figuring which trace would be the LF, assuming the white trace from the NL4.
Is there drop box links or otherwise allowed? Compressing these photos is distorting the image badly to upload others.
It is a biamp passive switched PA. It's set to passive and should be running through all of its internal crossovers. I'm buying a new ohm reader tomorrow harbor freight sent me a coupon yesterday. Water damage.

Go to imgbb.com -  upload you hires photos then post the BB code.

[Paul G. OBrien]

No output from all the low-mids suggests the boxes were modified for biamp only operation.. probably because the built-in bi-amp switching didn't completely bypass the passive crossover. Convention would put the lows on 1+/1- but maybe they are on 2+/2- here, easy enough to find out.

[Sean McKinley]

Go to imgbb.com -  upload you hires photos then post the BB code.

So I decided to hook it all back up after testing with my friends meter after finding no issues. A thought popped into my mind and cranked a pair to 100+db. Wouldn't you know, hahaha. Thy driver worketh! Seems the crossover wants a minimum of around 500 watts before they will even move. Looks like only one LF driver won't run in series but will run alone. Assuming it's shorting. Since otherwise it'd kill the whole series signal. I'll have it reconed since it's the '97 original part.

[doug johnson2]

I don't have any experience with the SLS speakers but, the black rectangular component to the right of the left hand set of bulbs is a thermal breaker.  I don't recall off hand if it was typically only on the hf band.  They do go bad and Community did recommend replacing them if you blew the protection bulbs as well.

[Sean McKinley]

I don't have any experience with the SLS speakers but, the black rectangular component to the right of the left hand set of bulbs is a thermal breaker.  I don't recall off hand if it was typically only on the hf band.  They do go bad and Community did recommend replacing them if you blew the protection bulbs as well.

That! Would explain the one that has a nonfunctioning m200  horn. Fuse was blown, straight wired it and still nothing. I'll see if I can order that part. Thank you for the info!

[Ivan Beaver]

So I decided to hook it all back up after testing with my friends meter after finding no issues. A thought popped into my mind and cranked a pair to 100+db. Wouldn't you know, hahaha. Thy driver worketh! Seems the crossover wants a minimum of around 500 watts before they will even move. Looks like only one LF driver won't run in series but will run alone. Assuming it's shorting. Since otherwise it'd kill the whole series signal. I'll have it reconed since it's the '97 original part.

That sounds like a faulty connection to me. That connection could be almost anywhere, the drivers themselves, the circuit board, a defective xover component and so forth

It does seem odd that in all 4 cabinets, 1 driver is having an issue.

A loudspeaker should make sound regardless of the input level.  The don't need a certain amount of level to make sound.

[Riley Casey]

Thats classic oxidized switch contact performance. Clean the passive / biamp switch

So I decided to hook it all back up after testing with my friends meter after finding no issues. A thought popped into my mind and cranked a pair to 100+db. Wouldn't you know, hahaha. Thy driver worketh! Seems the crossover wants a minimum of around 500 watts before they will even move. Looks like only one LF driver won't run in series but will run alone. Assuming it's shorting. Since otherwise it'd kill the whole series signal. I'll have it reconed since it's the '97 original part.

[John Chiara]

That sounds like a faulty connection to me. That connection could be almost anywhere, the drivers themselves, the circuit board, a defective xover component and so forth

It does seem odd that in all 4 cabinets, 1 driver is having an issue.

A loudspeaker should make sound regardless of the input level.  The don't need a certain amount of level to make sound.

I have 4 working 960's...they work on almost no power. There is something amiss in the crossover.

[Frank Czar]

Did you check with Community, they should have a schematic for you and possibly may still repair them. I had a large Community rig way back when and they were always great  with any questions or service I needed.

[Sean McKinley]

That sounds like a faulty connection to me. That connection could be almost anywhere, the drivers themselves, the circuit board, a defective xover component and so forth

It does seem odd that in all 4 cabinets, 1 driver is having an issue.

A loudspeaker should make sound regardless of the input level.  The don't need a certain amount of level to make sound.

I was thinking the same thing. I only retested it because I was thinking maybe it could be a possibility, when I tested them I probably only had the 3100w amp set to -6. To clarify every driver except for the low frequency drivers functioned at any volume level but the low frequency drivers would only come on at what I assume is around 500 watts. I also was thinking that I needed to retest them at higher volume because I wasn't entirely sure how the internal crossover functioned.
I'll clean the contacts for the biamp switch and report tomorrow night or Sunday.

[Tim McCulloch]

I was thinking the same thing. I only retested it because I was thinking maybe it could be a possibility, when I tested them I probably only had the 3100w amp set to -6. To clarify every driver except for the low frequency drivers functioned at any volume level but the low frequency drivers would only come on at what I assume is around 500 watts. I also was thinking that I needed to retest them at higher volume because I wasn't entirely sure how the internal crossover functioned.
I'll clean the contacts for the biamp switch and report tomorrow night or Sunday.

Also take a look at the crossover PCB with a bright light and magnification.  You're seeking broken or cold solder joints.  Pay attention to component lead solder pads.

Anything that needs a "jump start" has a bad current path.

[Riley Casey]

What's going on here is that oxidation has created a semiconductor state on a surface that should be a conductor. Increasing the voltage applied across that surface will eventually create enough potential difference to punch a literal hole thru the oxide and allow conduction for the current. It is often a very non-linear behavior. The mode switch is a likely candidate but if the crossover has any sort of connectors or even cold solder joints those could be suspect too. Even the input connectors to the box could be the problem if they haven't been used in some time.The fact that all four speakers exhibit this problem makes it more likely to be the switches or connectors. Seems unlikely they would all have identical cold solder joints.

... the low frequency drivers would only come on at what I assume is around 500 watts....

[Sean McKinley]

Also take a look at the crossover PCB with a bright light and magnification.  You're seeking broken or cold solder joints.  Pay attention to component lead solder pads.

Anything that needs a "jump start" has a bad current path.

https://ibb.co/n1cCGRB
https://ibb.co/WsctYYH
https://ibb.co/yqhkt3W
https://ibb.co/PCJ5YDr
https://ibb.co/JmY2Gh1

I can take more pictures Sunday after my shows. I'm only gonna use two of them for Friday for a country show with two EAW sb600e.
These cabs did sit in a warehouse for years. I'll look into best way to remove the oxidation. And I'll keep this all in mind as the seller has 14 more that I eventually want.

[Scott Holtzman]

https://ibb.co/n1cCGRB
https://ibb.co/WsctYYH
https://ibb.co/yqhkt3W
https://ibb.co/PCJ5YDr
https://ibb.co/JmY2Gh1

I can take more pictures Sunday after my shows. I'm only gonna use two of them for Friday for a country show with two EAW sb600e.
These cabs did sit in a warehouse for years. I'll look into best way to remove the oxidation. And I'll keep this all in mind as the seller has 14 more that I eventually want.

Please use imgbb.com it does not have obnoxious ads.  Use the BBCODE option.  Post the BBCODE fragment that is generated in your message where you want the pic.


BBCODE is parsed by the forum software for you.

[Mike Caldwell]

I would re flow the solder connections on the crossover board. A couple of the connections on the six pin connector kind of look questionable.

[Paul G. OBrien]

I see 2 areas that appear to be damaged or are the result of some very poor repair work. The 2 red wires above the red arrow look to be torn away from the circuit board directly below, and something seems missing in the area circled in Yellow.. looks like an empty hole with poorly flowed(cold) solder around it. I think you need to get some tech help to repair or replace these, Community should be able to supply a crossover schematic at least, then just about any electronics tech would be able to repair these.

[ProSoundWeb Community]