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[Jonathan Kok]

I guess I wasn't clear.  What I have is 0-10V dimmable fixtures-the "dimmers" that were installed actually incorporated a switch plus a 0-10V output for dimming.

The DFD comes closest what I am thinking.  I will likely replace the dimmers with simple switches since if the 0-10V is disconnected it puts lights at full brightness-and will allow normal use of the switches most of the time-simply adding in the dmx dimming when dimming is desirable.  The only question I need to get the answer to is if the DFD stuff can drive eight 0-10 volt sinking loads in parallel-and the fixture manufacturer can't tell me what that load is-guess its experiment time.  So much easier when the design is done correctly before the build.

Makes sense. I would double-check that, on loss of DMX, the DFD will drive the 0-10V to 100%, as disconnecting DMX will not 'disconnect' the 0-10V. I suspect the fixtures require a complete disconnection (no continuity between poles) in order to drive them to 100% automatically. Disconnecting DMX--even turning off the DFD completely--will not accomplish that, I suspect.

I've used Pathway's to drive nine 0-10V lines of dimming without issue, though those were LED drivers. Can't say what the load was.

With the ETC or Lightronics devices, this isn't an issue, however control is only over DMX for the ETC one. You can use a Merge box to LTP the console vs an alternative DMX input that works with switches (multiple ways to skin that cat). The Lightronics box will take DMX directly, and/or store presets that can be recalled via their button panels.

0-10V dimming is how I request electricians install house lights these days. Dimmers are unreliable when it comes to LED, whereas 0-10V works great, and can be easily incorporated via the ETC Foundry or Lightronics box. Plus, Electricians know what 0-10V is. DMX? Not so much.

[Stephen Swaffer]

I requested 0-10V-they did fine on the fixtures which is what I had specs for-the controls-not so much, but I didn't want to try to get them to install what I knew pastor/staff wanted because I knew they wouldn't have a clue.  Perhaps the most frustrating thing is that I went and added a raceway into the dimmer j-box to get me the flexibility to change things in the future-the contractor used my raceway to pull his wires. Obviously proper communication was lacking.

[Caleb Dueck]

I guess I wasn't clear.  What I have is 0-10V dimmable fixtures-the "dimmers" that were installed actually incorporated a switch plus a 0-10V output for dimming.

The DFD comes closest what I am thinking.  I will likely replace the dimmers with simple switches since if the 0-10V is disconnected it puts lights at full brightness-and will allow normal use of the switches most of the time-simply adding in the dmx dimming when dimming is desirable.  The only question I need to get the answer to is if the DFD stuff can drive eight 0-10 volt sinking loads in parallel-and the fixture manufacturer can't tell me what that load is-guess its experiment time.  So much easier when the design is done correctly before the build.

There's 2.5 different types of lighting control. 

Dimmers in a rack or on the wall.  DMX or other low-voltage control goes in, high voltage goes in, "squeezed" high voltage comes out and goes to the fixtures. 

LED drivers ("dimmers") inside each fixture.  Low voltage control into each fixture, and high voltage non-dimmed power also into each fixture.  If the low voltage control is DMX, everything is pretty simple.  This is how all LED stage lights work.

The 0.5 option is LED drivers in each fixture, with low voltage 0-10V analog control and high voltage power in, similar to DMX.  The main difference is - 0-10V doesn't hard-cut the high voltage typically, so as the 0-10V drops (dims the lights), when it gets to full off - it also has to automatically trip a relay to hard cut the high voltage power. 

Thus for 0-10V systems, you'll want the device that outputs the 0-10V control voltage - to also have relays for the high voltage.  The one I've used most is made by ETC and relatively inexpensive. 

If you ONLY use a 0-10V controller, or DMX to 0-10V converter, without integrated relays - get ready for frustration. 

For the projects I work on (installations) - almost every time now it's DMX fixtures, with DMX control and high voltage power run to each fixture.  The only other type which is getting more common involves rack or wall mount drivers (DMX in, high voltage in, dimmed DC power out).  It's dimmed DC from the drivers to the fixtures themselves; the concept is the same as LED lights, but the drivers are remote from the physical fixture. 

[Scott Hofmann]

This device from Dove Systems could be handy if you need to control architectural "current sinking" LED 0-10 fixtures from a standard 0-10 theatre controller.

[Stephen Swaffer]

This device from Dove Systems could be handy if you need to control architectural "current sinking" LED 0-10 fixtures from a standard 0-10 theatre controller.

I looked at their website and found a device closer to exactly what I wanted-when I inquired, I got a very quick response from Rich who suggested a product they did not yet have listed that will work exactly as I need-providing both a 0-10 V sink and a relay to cut lights completely as needed.  Yes, I could get this another way-but this is a nice clean solution.

[ProSoundWeb Community]