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[Matt Vivlamore]

I have a FOH (SQ5) console and an Stage Rackcase (DSP & Enttec DMX, but plan on adding more to the stage rack) and want to connect both spots without running a network cable from FOH to Stage and run under 1 Wifi connection.  I’m hoping to mount something in the case bottom. 

Is this possible?

How would I do this?

But If I need to, I can tape another Cat5e line to my drive snake. 
I tried plugging my Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC directly into my SQ5 and it couldn’t make a full connection. 

[Corey Scogin]

Another AP in client mode should work.
Here's a guy that goes through it with Ubiquiti APs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCB61jc0PUA

[Russell Ault]

I have a FOH (SQ5) console and an Stage Rackcase (DSP & Enttec DMX, but plan on adding more to the stage rack) and want to connect both spots without running a network cable from FOH to Stage and run under 1 Wifi connection.  I’m hoping to mount something in the case bottom. 

Is this possible?

How would I do this?

But If I need to, I can tape another Cat5e line to my drive snake. 
I tried plugging my Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC directly into my SQ5 and it couldn’t make a full connection.

What you're describing is often referred to as a Wi-Fi "bridge". There are a few different ways to achieve this, but if you're using UniFi APs you can configure them to use "wireless uplink" (sometimes know as "mesh"), which will allow them to act as both normal APs and as a Wi-Fi bridge simultaneously. (Note that wireless uplink functionality comes with a couple trade-offs: it reduces the number of SSIDs the APs support by half, and it requires enabling the "uplink connectivity monitor", i.e. the first thing most of us disable on UniFi APs).

IMHO, though, this is the wrong way to solve your problem. Since you're already running cable from stage to FOH, looming a couple chunks of Cat5e onto your FOH run will cost peanuts, add nothing to the setup time, and will be way more reliable than using a wireless link. (The more time I spend working with RF, the more I've come to really love and appreciate wires...)

-Russ

[Brian Jojade]

To achieve what you are trying to do, you need a device that supports mesh networking.  Essentially, one device will connect to the other device's wireless network, then create another network access point with the same name.

2 major problems with mesh networks, especially in the way you want to use it.  First, each wireless link introduces latency as well as reduces maximum throughput.  That may not matter much for basic control function, but it's important to be aware of.

The second issue is that for the mesh network to function, that means the wireless signal needs to be strong enough between the two access points.  Well, if your second access point is at FOH, and you're looking to access from FOH, that means the wireless signal from the first access point is already getting there. For the mesh to really provide any advantage, you'd need to position the repeater somewhere in between where you want access.  If you're already right on the edge of the signal strength, you're going to just see stronger signal on your device as it can connect to the nearby access point but the connection between may be spotty and unreliable and just be a constant frustration.

Easy answer is attach a cat 5 to your snake.  Run EVERYTHING WIRED THAT YOU CAN.  Proper mesh networks will hand off device connections gracefully.  'poor man' mesh networks that simply utilize access points with the same name/password work ok for devices that don't move around, but you may find that your device holds on to a signal from an access point further away until the connection drops and re-connects to the closer access point.

Oh, and while you're at it, add EtherCon patch points to your road cases.  They can still accept RJ45 cables, but unless you like putting new ends on constantly, EtherCon hoods make life way way easier.

[John Schalk]

Matt,

If you end up going with the EVERYTHING WIRED solution, consider getting shielded Cat5e.  That way you can use the extra runs for "Cat Tails" if need be.  You need the shield for phantom power or to run DMX through the Cat5/XLR adaptors.  Unshielded Cat5 will pass audio for good old dynamic mics though. 

[Matt Vivlamore]

Matt,

If you end up going with the EVERYTHING WIRED solution, consider getting shielded Cat5e.  That way you can use the extra runs for "Cat Tails" if need be.  You need the shield for phantom power or to run DMX through the Cat5/XLR adaptors.  Unshielded Cat5 will pass audio for good old dynamic mics though.

Most consoles require shielded Cat5e, I'd rather run the tactical/ultimate/tour-grade CAT cables over a generic store type.

[Andrew Broughton]

Most consoles require shielded Cat5e

Do you know of others besides the Behringer and (non-pro) Midas consoles?

[Mac Kerr]

Most consoles require shielded Cat5e, I'd rather run the tactical/ultimate/tour-grade CAT cables over a generic store type.

Which non-Music Tribe consoles require shielded CAT cable?
Mac

[David Sturzenbecher]

Which non-Music Tribe consoles require shielded CAT cable?
Mac

Allen and Heath recommends shielded cable.  No idea if it requires it.
https://support.allen-heath.com/hc/en-gb/articles/4403615333009-General-Recommended-cables

[Russell Ault]

Most consoles require shielded Cat5e, I'd rather run the tactical/ultimate/tour-grade CAT cables over a generic store type.

Do you know of others besides the Behringer and (non-pro) Midas consoles?

In fairness, judging by how many X32s have been sold, it's possible at this point that "most consoles require shielded Cat5e" is a technically-accurate statement.

-Russ

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