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[Caleb Dueck]

(snip)
It gets uncomfortably loud; and you could always get a pair.

Everyone has a different definition of "uncomfortably loud" when it comes to subs.  I've had (4) TH118 subs running full tilt from an X4 amp in a small room not much larger than a large living room, and still could have doubled the quantity. 

[Matthias McCready]

Everyone has a different definition of "uncomfortably loud" when it comes to subs.  I've had (4) TH118 subs running full tilt from an X4 amp in a small room not much larger than a large living room, and still could have doubled the quantity.

This is true (especially with you and subs  )

[Mike Henderson]

Everyone has a different definition of "uncomfortably loud" when it comes to subs.  I've had (4) TH118 subs running full tilt from an X4 amp in a small room not much larger than a large living room, and still could have doubled the quantity.

Yes that's right. Loud bass for me is certainly not what it means to the average person. I like 2 types of bass, depth to shake the ground and punch to hit your chest but that's for outdoors or large halls e.t.c. I have always been on the lookout for one cab design which can do both but could never find one, it's either or.

[Art Welter]

1)It's not at all the bass output of the SB1000 guys or any wiring or processing issues, it's dead spots at different places in that small room which is the issue.
2)Yes I love the sound of that SB1000 the most of all the different types of Cabs I have ever tried but that Sub was not designed for a one car garage as we all know.
3)Yesterday I had put it in the middle of the room and cranked it up and it shook every inch of that garage but that is the only spot where I can get that effect and I can only hear the bass best when standing in front of it and not anywhere at it's side.
4)If I did not like heavy bass that much I would have looked for a good pair of Full range speakers which would give the heaviest bass with some throw but I could never find such a speaker.
5)Also, I am not "happy" with the EV's, as mentioned it does not give me the depth of the EAW, I was saying that they now give me more even bass at the different spots in room because of their placements and positioning.

Mike,
1)Good to hear that.
2)Subs have three basic attributes- clean SPL output capability, bandwidth, and size.
3)Any sub level will drop 6 dB SPL each doubling of distance outdoors, but your listening position is not outdoors, levels can change twice that in a few feet indoors. At 40Hz, a drop of 6 dB will sound about half as loud.
4) "Throw" is a meaningless term- any sub of the size you would consider putting in your room will loose almost exactly the same SPL with distance.
5) In your 8'h x10'w x25'L room, the four foot depth of the SB-1000 is half the ceiling height and almost half the width. It will probably work best (reducing two reflections) set on a few 2x4s with the speaker end pointed up or down against a wall or corner. 
I'll repeat, you could test positioning much easier with a smaller sub that is equalized to the same response as the SB-1000.
Another tip: Reciprocity- if you want the loudest response to be in a certain place in the room, put the sub there, with the noise-making end where your ears/chest will be, then walk around the room until you find the loudest/ best sounding place. Put your loudest sub there, then repeat with your flanking subs.

Good luck,
have fun!

Art

[Mike Henderson]

Mike
5) In your 8'h x10'w x25'L room, the four foot depth of the SB-1000 is half the ceiling height and almost half the width. It will probably work best (reducing two reflections) set on a few 2x4s with the speaker end pointed up or down against a wall or corner. 
I'll repeat, you could test positioning much easier with a smaller sub that is equalized to the same response as the SB-1000.
Another tip: Reciprocity- if you want the loudest response to be in a certain place in the room, put the sub there, with the noise-making end where your ears/chest will be, then walk around the room until you find the loudest/ best sounding place. Put your loudest sub there, then repeat with your flanking subs.

Good luck,
have fun!

I appreciate all of the help and advice from you guys here. I now have a much better understanding of my situation, it is what it is.

Art

[Tim Weaver]

Whoever recommended the Dayton flat pack was a great on point economical option.  He can have a speaker with usable response below to close to 20hz. 

That was me. 

Have you ever seen this companies flat packs?  They look interesting.  https://shop.gsgad.com/collections/martysub-by-gsg-flat-packs/products/full-marty-by-gsgtm-flat-pack-retail-pricing-single-unit-local-pickup-only  I have been wanting to put one together and try in my home theater.

I have not, but then again I own a tablesaw. 


I suggested the flat pack from Parts Express simply because I think what Mike needs is a home theater type sub. It will be smaller than the SB1000 and the Eliminator, but it will dig a lot deeper than both. And a single 18 will be plenty for a 1 car garage. And if it isn't build another.

Mike also mentioned he wasn't interested in diy, but I don't count this as real DIY. The hard part is all done already and you glue and screw it together, add the driver and go. Doesn't even need paint.

The sealed single 18 form factor gives him the most options for placement since it's so small. Should be easier to experiment with.

[Mike Henderson]

That was me.  I have not, but then again I own a tablesaw. 


I suggested the flat pack from Parts Express simply because I think what Mike needs is a home theater type sub. It will be smaller than the SB1000 and the Eliminator, but it will dig a lot deeper than both. And a single 18 will be plenty for a 1 car garage. And if it isn't build another.

Mike also mentioned he wasn't interested in diy, but I don't count this as real DIY. The hard part is all done already and you glue and screw it together, add the driver and go. Doesn't even need paint.

The sealed single 18 form factor gives him the most options for placement since it's so small. Should be easier to experiment with.

I have had a Sony surround system in there for years now which I use only for FM listening whenever and that system does work for it's purpose.

I can agree that where bass is concerned that a home theater type sub would be the most effective way to go but this will not give me the overall sound and tone I need in an old school DJ system. Way I see it my choice will be to either keep the PA/DJ system and accept and live with the room acoustics situation or go with the multiple Subs Home theatre system. I will need to step back and think about this guys.

To cap off, should I decide to go with the flat pack of which I will need at least 2, the Parts Express version will be the better of the 2 mentioned in this thread?

[Tim Weaver]

I have had a Sony surround system in there for years now which I use only for FM listening whenever and that system does work for it's purpose.

I can agree that where bass is concerned that a home theater type sub would be the most effective way to go but this will not give me the overall sound and tone I need in an old school DJ system. Way I see it my choice will be to either keep the PA/DJ system and accept and live with the room acoustics situation or go with the multiple Subs Home theatre system. I will need to step back and think about this guys.

To cap off, should I decide to go with the flat pack of which I will need at least 2, the Parts Express version will be the better of the 2 mentioned in this thread?

Did you look at the sub kit I linked?

It is absolutely not comparable to a sony or bose HT system. Those are crap.


A pair of those Dayton subs would be usable for a small club DJ rig in my opinion. A single would be more than sufficient for your garage. I mean, it is a 18" driver. It just has a lot more excursion than most PA drivers.


But you do you man. It is beginning to look like all you want is some confirmation bias about your garage system.

To fix your problem of sitting in a null, you move your sub. There is no other option.

To fix the problem of not enough/bad quality of bass you get a different sub. There is no other option. Since you already have an SB1000 I'd look at restoring that back to 100% factory specs. It's can't be working right if you still have a problem with it.

I'm not sure what else you are searching for. The answers are here.

[Scott Holtzman]

I am not seeing any reviews on this item or it's application? Also when researching this item I am also seeing "G sub" which I have come across many threads on it on other forums, why is that Cab so popular?

I think you would want the Full Marty and use the Eminence driver.  19hz extension.  Audiogon forum I believe has lots of talk about these, the designs were created a while ago but this company took the time to put it together for CNC and easy assembly for those of us (like me) that are joinery challenged. 

[Mike Henderson]

To update guys, we put the eaw back where it was at the middle of the back wall facing forward as normal and together with the EV Sub at the middle of the side wall, this did the trick. So yes, the "flanking" method works. I can now hear the bass more evenly [not perfect but good enough] at the usual problem spots in the room.

[ProSoundWeb Community]