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[Christian Ekren]

I have to make some panels coming up soon.  When connecting the connectors to the panel, I’ve always used a screwdriver in one hand, and a pair of needle nose pliers in the other hand.  Was never able to get a socket around it.  Anyone else ever have a better way than needle nose pliers?

The nuts for the panel connectors we use are the same size as our multi-bit screwdrivers without a bit inserted, so I just use my Stanley 62-574 as a nut driver on one side, and a normal screwdriver on the other. Can be a tight fit with the Stanley, but still much better than using a pliers.

[Tim Weaver]

Interesting, how do you see them fail?

I started riveting because of wanting to rear mount Powercons and Speakons and pan head screws would bind on the plugs when inserting/removing so I was looking for a low profile solution.
I've rivited 500+ Neutrik connectors on my gear and never had one come loose or fail.
Plastic connectors like Powercons get a small washer at the back for the rivet to grab onto so as not to deform the plastic.
I must admit having to drill them out if you change things around is a minor inconvenience.

Considering rivets are all that holds flight cases together and they take way more abuse than any panel should they've got to be fit for purpose  .

Either way for the screw approach the spanner I suggested or something similar in imperial if you're using odd screw sizes is a real help.

When I worked at the big University we built all our panels with rivets.

If a panel was going in to a "high use" (like 3-4 times a week) situation we used steel rivets. They never came apart. Ever.

Aluminum rivets would get loose over a long time, but if the panel was going to see light use we would use aluminum anyway since they are so much easier to work with.

[Steve-White]

^^^ Exactly, 304 stainless rivets don't come loose - but, who wants to argue.  I had to buy a pneumatic gun to pull the steel rivets.  We have all seen numerous loose fasteners of all types and fastener failures.  It happens, particularly if poor workmanship is involved.  It comes down to proper application.  Pop rivets were developed by manufacturing engineers in the aerospace industry.  They work and work well.  Hand an idiot the keys to a Ferrari, do we blame Enzo for the results or blame the car?

I've encountered instances of loose pop rivets over the years just like everyone else has. 

[Luke Geis]

I was going to say Stainless Steel Rivets as being the end all be all to NEVER coming undone. But you will want a pneumatic tool to do it.

You can go crazy and insert blind nuts or Nutserts as they are called. The Keps Nuts are pretty nice though. You can go finger tight until they bite and then tighten like normal without another tool.

[Steve-White]

^^^ Keps nuts are great!  Very well suited for panel work.  Much easier to remove than SS pop rivets as well.

[Ales Dravinec]

I have to make some panels coming up soon.  When connecting the connectors to the panel, I’ve always used a screwdriver in one hand, and a pair of needle nose pliers in the other hand.  Was never able to get a socket around it.  Anyone else ever have a better way than needle nose pliers?

What about these :
https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/mfd

Respectfully !

[Mike Caldwell]

What about these :
https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/mfd

Respectfully !

Those look they are formed for rear mounting D series connectors and would be a handy solution for that.

[drew gandy]

What about these :
https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/mfd

Respectfully !

Ales! Haven't seen you post in a long long time! Hope you are doing well.

[Steve-White]

What about these :
https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/mfd

Respectfully !

Clean.

[Uwe Riemer2]

Those look they are formed for rear mounting D series connectors and would be a handy solution for that.

Neutrik MFD´s can also be used for front mounting.
If you never tried these, don´t do it. You will never go back.
Only drawback in your world: MFD work with metric screws ( M3 )

[ProSoundWeb Community]