Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Mike Caldwell]

What era EV Eliminator speaker are you talking about?
Pictured is a pair of the original era Ev Eliminators that would give that 70's sound and more
volume than you could stand in a one car garage on top of an SB1000.

The more recent version is what is called a point source box, basically a woofer and a horn
in box with cost ranging from a couple hundred to a few thousand dollars.
Some have suspension points and can used as a "ceiling mounted top".
The newer'ish and now discontinued EV Eliminators have a 60 X 40 horn, not exactly
what you need in a one car garage!

Is this all for party playback music or a band practice PA?

How are you powering processing all of it.

[Mike Henderson]

What era EV Eliminator speaker are you talking about?
Pictured is a pair of the original era Ev Eliminators that would give that 70's sound and more
volume than you could stand in a one car garage on top of an SB1000.

The more recent version is what is called a point source box, basically a woofer and a horn
in box with cost ranging from a couple hundred to a few thousand dollars.
Some have suspension points and can used as a "ceiling mounted top".
The newer'ish and now discontinued EV Eliminators have a 60 X 40 horn, not exactly
what you need in a one car garage!

Is this all for party playback music or a band practice PA?

How are you powering processing all of it.

I have the newer Eliminator i series which are very heavy and powerful

https://av.loyola.com/products/audio/ev-eliminator-i.html

powered with a Crown 3600, DBX 2231 EQ and Ashly XR 1001 crossover.

Just mp3 playback when I or us here are hanging out.

[Dennis Wiggins]

... too harsh ... tried ...  equalize ... not much improvement ... analog and non-powered ... 70s ...  so looking for something with warm mids and highs ...

Find a Klipsch Heresy.  Good "Old School" sound.

My $.02

Ceiling mount?   

[Craig Hauber]

Ok guys, so I now that I have my bass settled I need to do something about my Tops. I am currently using a pair of EV Eliminator i speakers but being on top of my EAW SB1000 sub in my small one car garage is close and too harsh for my ears. No matter how I tried to equalize them not much improvement.

So I want to try a ceiling mounted top like a line array but need something analog and non-powered to try to maintain that analog tone. I can't remember line array speakers being around in the 70s so looking for something with warm mids and highs.

I was thinking of trying maybe a Community Top but was told that those usually tend to be very loud and harsh so any recommendations please?

Your boxes use the DH2010a driver on a larger 60x40 horn.  Some people may not like that particular combination, but I have had plenty of success over many years with that particular component.
Make sure they are actually working correctly and there hasn't been any damage to the diaphragms or passive crossover.
Bi-amping can also improve things as well as reveal any issues.
My inventory of stick-mount speakers for smaller jobs use very similar components and I still get many compliments on the clarity, smoothness and accuracy of my product and the speaker boxes themselves are probably over 30 years old (cones and diaphragms are way more recent of course)

Are you sur you're "EQ"-ing them properly?  Perhaps you don't like the more narrow directivity?
Most smaller "affordable" line arrays are very wide and have quite a number of tweeter-like devices with quite a bit of that interference between devices that Ivan mentioned.
-could be your looking for that large "hi-fi" speaker type tone?  cone midrange with direct radiating tweeters? (they tend to not last as long with microphones though)

[Chris Hindle]

What era EV Eliminator speaker are you talking about?
Pictured is a pair of the original era Ev Eliminators that would give that 70's sound and more
volume than you could stand in a one car garage on top of an SB1000.

The more recent version is what is called a point source box, basically a woofer and a horn
in box with cost ranging from a couple hundred to a few thousand dollars.
Some have suspension points and can used as a "ceiling mounted top".
The newer'ish and now discontinued EV Eliminators have a 60 X 40 horn, not exactly
what you need in a one car garage!

Is this all for party playback music or a band practice PA?

How are you powering processing all of it.

Here's my first "real" PA.
8 home built eliminators (using EV build plans) and a couple of 2441's on Community BHR90 horns. Bi-amped,  150W per bottom, 200 w per top. I think I crossed it just under 1K.
Amp rack ran on a single 15A circuit. Efficient, bulky, and heavy.
System eventually reached 12 eliminators, and 4 horns.
That was a LOT of sawdust. 3 4x8 built 2 boxes....

That system made me a ton of money.
Chris.

[Tim McCulloch]

Here's my first "real" PA.
8 home built eliminators (using EV build plans) and a couple of 2441's on Community BHR90 horns. Bi-amped,  150W per bottom, 200 w per top. I think I crossed it just under 1K.
Amp rack ran on a single 15A circuit. Efficient, bulky, and heavy.
System eventually reached 12 eliminators, and 4 horns.
That was a LOT of sawdust. 3 4x8 built 2 boxes....

That system made me a ton of money.
Chris.

No pics that I can find... but each side of my first 'real' PA was Community RH-90 w/Renkus-Heinz HF, Community M-80 (a mid-bass repurposed as a mid horn) with a JBL "I don't remember the number" 12", Community 4896 bass-ish horn loaded with an EVM15L, and 3 reflex loaded 18" subs that used a variety of transducers.  Lots of sawdust in that rig, for sure.

It was a good sounding rig for the day, and I still have the RH-90s and M-80s in storage.  The 4896s got left in Wyoming following an epic transportation failure and I wasn't able to retrieve them.  I think I still have a pair of the sub cabs, empty.  Maybe resurrecting this rig from the remains and some modern DSP amps will be my hobby project down the line.  Big horns make me smile.

[Tim Weaver]

I have an old computer speaker set inmy garage and thats plenty for me.


We used to call them "Humiliators" when I worked for the university. Those things are nasty.



OP, I'm not sure what you are after for this garage system, but you should look for some Yamaha ClubV's. That'll sort you out right quick. There's more crappy bar band history in a set of Yammy's than in ten other systems combined.....

[Mike Caldwell]

Here's my first "real" PA.
8 home built eliminators (using EV build plans) and a couple of 2441's on Community BHR90 horns. Bi-amped,  150W per bottom, 200 w per top. I think I crossed it just under 1K.
Amp rack ran on a single 15A circuit. Efficient, bulky, and heavy.
System eventually reached 12 eliminators, and 4 horns.
That was a LOT of sawdust. 3 4x8 built 2 boxes....

That system made me a ton of money.
Chris.

AB International Precedents were good solid amps.

[Steve Eudaly]

OP, I'm not sure what you are after for this garage system, but you should look for some Yamaha ClubV's.

And they make flyable versions for your "ceiling mounted" desires. We flew a pair of C112VAs for an ultra-budget school auditorium system powered by a Behringer NU3000DSP. After implementing the Yamaha recommended EQ settings, I was rather impressed for a rig that cost roughly $1k retail.

[John L Nobile]

Glad you got yours sorted! Can you tell me if yours is ceiling mounted or on top of your sub please?

I had thought many times of facing not only the tops but especially the bass towards the wall as the best bass for me is the bass I hear at the sides and back of the subs. Only reason I never tried it was I don't know if doing this would cause any damage to the woofers.

Regarding facing the tops towards the wall I can try that.

It all depends on your application. I have SH96HO's flown in a permanent installation. I roll out the subs when we do a show. It's a multifunction room so the stage and subs get setup and torn down for each gig.

Facing your subs against the wall doesn't seem right to me. But depending on the room, there may be a small chance of improvement.

Facing the tops backwards doesn't seem like a good idea either. Unless you wand the "Bose" effect of non-directional sound. If the tops are biamped, turn down the volume on the highs and eq the harshness out as best you can.

[ProSoundWeb Community]