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[Eric Lambert]

I recently bought a pair Chauvet Intimidator Spot Duo 155s that are rated @ 32W per bulb. I'm debating on taking them back because they do not throw a constant beam. Is there a general wattage minimum in order to achieve this?

I'll be running one on each side along with 4 LED Pars. I suppose I could purchase a faze machine to help but i'm worried most venues my band plays will not allow smoke or faze.

[Dennis Wiggins]

...i'm worried most venues my band plays will not allow smoke or faze.

I have not used any fog or haze effects since the smoking ban in January 1, 2008. I find it pretentious to try convince bars or banquet facilities, let alone the patrons,  that I should be able to create "mist for effect" when finally the air is clear.

Back in the day, I did love lighting up a good smokey bar.  I definitely don't miss it now.

I would be interested to hear how fog/haze is being implemented in the non-touring/stage world, not the least of which is the interaction with smoke detectors and sprinkler systems.

Today, I light up "things" (walls, floor, ceiling) but longer try to light the atmosphere.

-Dennis

[Jeff Lelko]

Hi Eric, this question is a bit tricky to answer.  Assuming that you mean “produce a beam that’s persistent enough to be visible and impressive on top of any additional stage or ambient light in the venue”, that will depend on many factors.  This is similar to asking how many watts of sound system do I need to play venue xyz - wattage doesn’t correlate to properly sizing a sound system.

As Dennis has already mentioned, you’re going to need some type of atmosphere enhancement to give the light something to hit and be seen.  In terms of the fixtures themselves, their output should be determined based on the size of your venue, the desired effect, additional stage and ambient light they need to compete with, and any logistical concerns (power/weight/etc.).

The type of fixture and the associated optics play a large roll in perceived brightness as well.  While it’s impossible to give you an actual number, I can say that the fixtures you bought will only really work in a dark smokey venue with little ambient light.  You’d probably be best served by returning these and getting something much more capable or switching to an entirely different fixture type based on your concern about using fog/haze.  Hope this helps!

[Jeff Lelko]

I would be interested to hear how fog/haze is being implemented in the non-touring/stage world, not the least of which is the interaction with smoke detectors and sprinkler systems.

You’re fine on sprinklers, but just the other week I was working a job where the venue’s fire alarm didn’t like the Radiance hazers being used.  That’s why you get a tech/rehearsal day and the show went on with the local fire department providing fire watch while the system was disabled.  So in other words, nothing has changed!

[David Allred]

I have not used any fog or haze effects since the smoking ban in January 1, 2008. I find it pretentious to try convince bars or banquet facilities, let alone the patrons,  that I should be able to create "mist for effect" when finally the air is clear.

Back in the day, I did love lighting up a good smokey bar.  I definitely don't miss it now.

I would be interested to hear how fog/haze is being implemented in the non-touring/stage world, not the least of which is the interaction with smoke detectors and sprinkler systems.

Today, I light up "things" (walls, floor, ceiling) but longer try to light the atmosphere.

-Dennis

If venues would opt for the temp rise style instead of photo switch style the problem would fix itself.
Big Clive said that there is a theory in the UK that atomized glycol effectively inhibits the conference of the flu virus in hospitals.  So, win win.

[Mark Cadwallader]

To follow up on what Jeff said, there are ways to get an idea of how much illumination a given ligthing fixture will produce, and how it will look.  Look for the "photometric" specifications for the fixture. Compare the beam (in degrees) with the field numbers. The closer they are, the less "spill" of light outside the concentrated beam there will be.  Also look at the illumination (in lux or foot-candles) at a given distance. The narrower the beam angle, the more illumination for a given light source.  The closer the light to the surface being lit the greater the illumination, too. It is the inverse square law at work.

How much is enough is a different question, but you can at least get a sense of the magnitude of intensity from the specs. You can always dim a light that is too bright.

[Paul G. OBrien]

I recently bought a pair Chauvet Intimidator Spot Duo 155s that are rated @ 32W per bulb. I'm debating on taking them back because they do not throw a constant beam. Is there a general wattage minimum in order to achieve this?

No, unless there is something in the air for the light beam to reflect off(dust, moisture, fog/haze) then the beam won't be visible no matter how powerful the fixture is.

[Steve-White]

No, unless there is something in the air for the light beam to reflect off(dust, moisture, fog/haze) then the beam won't be visible no matter how powerful the fixture is.

+1

Do you use DMX control or just free run the 155’s?

[Eric Lambert]

+1

Do you use DMX control or just free run the 155’s?

Yes, i've been using DMXIS and just recently upgraded to Show Buddy.

[Dave Garoutte]

A 32 watt LED mover isn't very bright.
How much you need depends on the beam angle, the 'throw' required, and as stated, any haze.

[ProSoundWeb Community]