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[Joel T. Glaser]

Recently I had asked for input on some trussing ideas I was tossing about. I received some very helpful replies and I am quite grateful for those. You can read that thread here - https://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/topic,172665.0.html

I finally gathered all the parts and pieces to move forward with this project and have gotten it all assembled. I've taken some pictures and thought I'd share what I did, in the hopes that it might help someone else thinking of doing something similar.

As I stated in the original post, I wanted to build a setup where I could use I-Beam truss in smaller clubs where my 12" box truss would be too big and bulky. You all know the stages that I'm talking about, ..... barely deep enough for a drum kit! I had considered buying one of those cheap I-Beam setups, but every one that I found, used 1 1/2" pipe (or the metric equivalent). All of my trussing is 2" (F34) and so all my clamps (which I leave mounted on the lights) are for 2" truss. Doesn't make sense to own multiple sizes of clamps if I don't need to.

My initial thought was to purchase I-Beam truss to use as the verticals as well as the horizontals, but Jeff Lelko cautioned me about building on top of I-Beam truss (Thanks, Jeff). I have 4 pieces of 2 meter F34 box truss, so decided that I'd use those as verticals instead. First thing to get was the bases. I ended up buying a pair of 26" x 39" aluminum bases from Cedarslink. What interested me initially in these is the multitude of pre-drilled holes. I can move the connectors around to suit my needs. That sounds like it might come in handy over time. The second thing that caught my eye was the price. It was that time between Thanksgiving and the New Year. Every seller is looking to make sales. Lucky me!!

First picture is the Bases.

Next purchase was the 90 degree corners. I had initially thought about getting corners for I-Beam truss, but decided to get F34 box corners instead. That opens up the possibilities of using them for larger setups where I want to use box truss as horizontals. AND I found a pretty decent sale on a pair, so I went that route.

Second picture is the truss corners.

First thing I discovered in trying to attach I-Beam truss to box truss: The pin holes don't line up. WTH!! Pin holes in I-Beam truss are straight up and down (180 degrees?). Pin holes in box truss are at a 45 degree angle to straight up and down. THAT'S not gonna work!! OK, so I scour the internet looking for a solution. I don't know about anyone else, but I have never had any luck with the Global Truss website. It's just not helpful in finding anything. Some time ago I had run across a video on YouTube by DJ Brian S. Redd, where he built some custom clamps out of parts he had. Got me thinking I could do the same.  Off to the 'net to find and purchase parts. After much research and several trips to the big box hardware store 45 miles away, I finally had what I needed.

Next 2 pictures are of the half conicles and the fuzzy picture of the socket cap screw and nut that I used to attach the two to make my connectors to attach I-Beam truss to box truss. Of course I had to cut off the little tit and it took some doing to get the holes lined up and the bolt tightened. but it worked perfectly.

I'm going to post this and continue in another post, before I run out of room and I loose this whole thing!

[Joel T. Glaser]

OK, here are pictures of the I-Beam horizontal with box truss verticals on the bases that I bought.

[Joel T. Glaser]

As I want this setup to be as flexible as possible, the next step in the project was to figure out how to attach the I-Beam to my smaller light stands. I figure I will use these medium duty tripod stands where I need the height adjustment and where I can't use the big bases and box truss for verticals.

The first hurdle was finding clamps with connectors that fit into 2" truss and will also clamp around 1 1/2" pipe on my light stands. Off to search the internet. If they're out there, I COULDN'T find 'em! Well, fine, I'll just make my own. Back to idjnow for more parts. AND the big box hardware store for more M10x16mm socket cap screws and nuts. Again, it worked out like I had planned (hoped??!!??).

First picture is of the clamps that I assembled. Other pictures are of the I-Beam truss mounted on my smaller tripod stands.

Again, thank you to all who have helped me with this project. When (if) I get pictures of this setup with lights strung, I'll come back and post them here.

 

[Mark Cadwallader]

The 1/2 conical couplers for base plates that Global sells do not have a locating pin, and already have 10 mm x 1.5mm internal threading. That would have saved you the hex nut and grinding down the locator pin on one of the two pieces.   You would still need one of the UJB pins (with locator pin) in order to get a connector counter-bored for the socket head ("Allen") cap screw.

If you don't already know about blue Loctite (# 242), now is the time to find out. Loctite is an anaerobic thread adhesive, which cures in the absence of air (when threaded together). Blue Loctite (also sold by other brands) is removable with ordinary hand tools.  Red Loctite, on the other hand, is not readily removed. (It usually takes heat as well.). An assembly threaded together with blue Loctite will not vibrate apart or otherwise loosen from mere use.

As much as I try to shop locally in my small town (30,000 pop), McMaster-Carr is a good source of specialty fasteners. They are on the web, and often sell fasteners in less than a box of 100. MSC Direct is another good source.

Good luck with your endeavors.

Edit: correct thread size to M10

[Jeff Lelko]

These look great Joel, thanks for sharing!  I definitely like the look of what you built compared to the usual box truss straddling a pair of tripods...not to mention the ability to uplight as well.  These look solid, stable, and professional.

Mark is correct - the half-couplers made for baseplates don’t have that pin on them (which then makes them a bit of a pain to get oriented correctly), but it’s something to keep in mind for future purchases.  Also, just make sure you socket head screws you bought are of sufficient strength.  I know that both Class 8.8 and Class 10.9 are commonly found in trussing, though I’m not sure which Global prescribes for use in these connectors (I always double-check when buying inventory and don’t want to accidentally misspeak).  Glad to see it all worked out for you!

[Mark Cadwallader]

IIRC, all of the black oxide treated metric socket head cap screws I've ever bought have been ISO grade 12.9.  That's not the case with stainless steel fasteners, however, or some flathead socket cap screws.

[Jeff Lelko]

IIRC, all of the black oxide treated metric socket head cap screws I've ever bought have been ISO grade 12.9.  That's not the case with stainless steel fasteners, however, or some flathead socket cap screws.

Exactly - all the more reason to double-check before buying!

[Scott Holtzman]

As I want this setup to be as flexible as possible, the next step in the project was to figure out how to attach the I-Beam to my smaller light stands. I figure I will use these medium duty tripod stands where I need the height adjustment and where I can't use the big bases and box truss for verticals.

The first hurdle was finding clamps with connectors that fit into 2" truss and will also clamp around 1 1/2" pipe on my light stands. Off to search the internet. If they're out there, I COULDN'T find 'em! Well, fine, I'll just make my own. Back to idjnow for more parts. AND the big box hardware store for more M10x16mm socket cap screws and nuts. Again, it worked out like I had planned (hoped??!!??).

First picture is of the clamps that I assembled. Other pictures are of the I-Beam truss mounted on my smaller tripod stands.

Again, thank you to all who have helped me with this project. When (if) I get pictures of this setup with lights strung, I'll come back and post them here.

Those cheesborough clamps are not designed to hold the load attached like that.  Need to use truss adapters for the top of your stands.

[Jeff Lelko]

Those cheesborough clamps are not designed to hold the load attached like that.  Need to use truss adapters for the top of your stands.

You bring up an interesting point Scott.  My understanding is that Joel is trying to build this because one is not available to match the OD of his light stands.  Now about the cheesborough clamps...

*** Disclaimer - Always Consult the Equipment Manufacturer for Appropriate SWLs and Applicablity to Intended Usages ***

Yes, the typical published SWL of a cheesborough is in the up/down grid configuration such as when hanging lights below a truss.  Oftentimes the manufacturer will have a rating for the “goalpost” shear configuration as well, though they usually tend not to publish it.  I know at least The Light Source does this, but I don’t think I’ve ever asked Global...hence my disclaimer of always consulting the technical support folks when wanting to use a product outside of its usual intended application.  The SWL is substantially less in this configuration though (I believe The Light Source’s equivalent is about 200 pounds), hence my question if the bolt is of sufficient grade/class.  Going off that (which again needs to be verified), that’d give the setup an 800 pound SWL.  Certainly nothing crazy, but I’d consider that within scope for the intended purpose. 

All of that said, YouTube is generally never a good source when building DIY structural solutions...  I’ve got a folder of bookmarks to show why my insurance goes up every year!

[Mark Cadwallader]

Joel,

Your project has answered a question I had about mixing and matching box and I beam "euro" style truss. Thank you.

If you decide to add a second pair of corners to your rig, you might consider using the Universal Junction Block ("UJB"). You could have the UJB ever so slightly modified to allow the locator pin to be offset 45 degrees so you could align with either the I beam or the box truss holes.  A machine shop could add a second alignment spot on the UJB faces with an end mill (to give you a nice flat-bottomed blind hole).

The UJB is only 290 mm wide, vs. the 500 mm length of the 90 degree corners, so that's something to keep in mind if you try that idea at some point.

[ProSoundWeb Community]