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[Erik Jerde]

I’ve got some 1” knockouts in my near future and I’m wondering if there’s a good reason why I shouldn’t use a power tool (impact driver/hole hog) to turn the draw stud.  I’ve used the powered Milwaukee KO tool before and it’s a beautiful piece but I can’t justify it for my own purchase so I’m using the Greenlee manual kit.

Google searches on this topic haven’t been helpful so I’m hoping one of y’all labsters will have some sage advice for me.

On a related note, the Harbor Freight KO set is a textbook case of getting what you pay for. 

[Geoff Doane]

How thick is the metal?

I've wrecked a couple 15/16" Greenlee punch sets from using too big a wrench on them (and an air wrench once), and just going too fast.  They get hot, and the threads seem to get distorted.  The same goes for oiling the threads.  A drop under the head of the bolt was OK, but putting oil on the threads themselves just worked like cutting oil.  Newer bolts have the ball bearing at the top, but I've almost destroyed the threads on one of them too.

The punch would still work, although with higher friction, but I couldn't reverse the die on the bolt, it would jam up, leading me to believe I distorted the threads.

The Greenlee hydraulic tool is slick (and uses the same die parts), but because it's not turning, there isn't the same wear on the threads.

I was punching 1/8" aluminum panels, and steel (electrical) junction boxes.  Slowing down and letting the die cool off between holes seems to be the prudent way to go for me.

GTD

[Rob Spence]

I have used my drills on occasion but only on small holes (up to 1 1/4 trade size).
Worked fine as long as I kept the speed down. My 18v Dewalt was fine for 1/2” & 3/4”.
I used my right angle Milwaukee for the bigger ones. The optional handles were mandatory to prevent wrist breakage.

[Frank Koenig]

A power driver should be fine if you take it slow. In fact, it will subject the bolt to pure torsion without the tilting force that results from using a one-sided (not T-handle) wrench. I'd test the process first with a hand wrench and stay away from any sort of impact driver. They have a way of destroying things without warning    --Frank

[Tim Padrick]

If you don't have the ball bearing driver bolt, get it.  Expensive, but worth every penny if you have a lot of work to do, especially in steel.

[Dave Garoutte]

Put heavy duty grease on the threads and cutting oil on the dies.  The dark sulphur based oil used for tapping pipe threads would be good, but any lube will reduce the cutting force.

[Craig Hauber]

How thick is the metal?

I've wrecked a couple 15/16" Greenlee punch sets from using too big a wrench on them (and an air wrench once), and just going too fast.  They get hot, and the threads seem to get distorted.  The same goes for oiling the threads.  A drop under the head of the bolt was OK, but putting oil on the threads themselves just worked like cutting oil. 

That's odd?  When I had to do several hundred holes in some commercial switchgear panels back years ago I noticed a significant heat reduction and less torque needed when greasing the threads.  That was fairly heavy guage steel and holes ranging from 3/4 to 2" trade sizes.  I just used whatever was in the grease-gun out on the truck and smeared it on the threads with my finger to minimize blobs of excess.  I had the ball-bearing washer so the bolt head didn't need any
I still have the punch set and they work just as good now as the day I bought them.

[Brian Adams]

I use a battery powered impact driver all the time with my punches. I oil the threads and cutting heads before each hole and I haven't ever noticed much heat or excess wear.

[Steve-White]

I use a battery powered impact driver all the time with my punches. I oil the threads and cutting heads before each hole and I haven't ever noticed much heat or excess wear.

Same here - I use moly grease on the threads - saves lots of time.

[frank kayser]

Same here - I use moly grease on the threads - saves lots of time.

Not quite the same thing, but using a collet die to size shotgun brass, that die heats a lot, and will start to stick if dry. I found that anti-sieze compound was the only stuff that would perform in that situation.  Maybe some moly grease designed for CV joints would hold up as well.

[ProSoundWeb Community]