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[Caleb Dueck]

I looked up those RCF subs. Slow day at work.

They're about twice the price and over 100 pounds heavier. They should perform better than the DBH218.

On paper yes, in the real world no.  I had both for about a week, and did direct A/B a couple times.  In the end, the higher cost and extra weight only got us - a more mushy sound.  And they aren't flyable.

[Robert Piascik]

Yes I do have 12x TH118 as well as 4x TH115 as well as 4x SM80 and 4x SH50 and 4x fa22ac. Happy to demo any and all for you. Email me at [email protected]

I don’t have experience to compare all the subs listed here but 2x SM80 over 4x TH118 is a GREAT combination. I have Powersoft X4 amp for subs.

And the Danley stuff replaced my 8x EAW KF650 over 8x EAW SB750 rig (really two rigs). My first comparison was TH115 vs SB750 side by side. I was completely astounded that it was.not.close. Then bought some TH118 and they are even better.

I’m in Columbus area.

[Randall Cook]

I went from 650's to SM 80's and the lack of midrange is negligible . There's always the SM80M that is rated somewhat lower and can have a second use if needed

What is the difference in the SM80 and the “M” version aside from aesthetics and lower frequencies?  I see it’s also possible to bi-amp?  If I went with the “M” version, am I sacrificing anything over the standard “SM80” if I want to use it mostly for FOH?

[Scott Olewiler]

What is the difference in the SM80 and the “M” version aside from aesthetics and lower frequencies?  I see it’s also possible to bi-amp?  If I went with the “M” version, am I sacrificing anything over the standard “SM80” if I want to use it mostly for FOH?

Entire thread on that:

https://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/topic,171951.0.html

[John L Nobile]

On paper yes, in the real world no.  I had both for about a week, and did direct A/B a couple times.  In the end, the higher cost and extra weight only got us - a more mushy sound.  And they aren't flyable.

But at twice the price, you'd get twice as many DBH218's. What box would have the same performance in that price range?

[Caleb Dueck]

But at twice the price, you'd get twice as many DBH218's. What box would have the same performance in that price range?

Rather than price per sub, price per come, watts per dollar, etc - it's about total cost (subs plus amps) to get X dB output.  Along with truck pack size, weight, low extension, and tonality.  Which variables are more critical than others, which variables have a limit.

Cost per sub is meaningless, only total cost of subs and amps to get X performance is a valid cost metric.

The short list of subs, for my mix of uses, happen to be horn loaded and flyable.  That by default mostly means Danley.  BC218, BC415, DBH, TH118XL, sometimes TH212.

Other options that check some of the boxes, depending on application, are Fulcrum TS221,TS215, JTR Orbit Shifter, VTC ELS118, Martin SXH218, Bassboss SSP218, and likely others. 

Compared to DBH218:
SXH218 (haven't heard in real life yet)is supposedly very similar, a touch more mushy sound, and higher cost.

TS221 - smaller, touch lower cost, not quite as easily flyable, more mushy sound.

Orbit Shifter - needs to be in multiples, 1.5 or so per 1 DBH.

ELS - more like a lower cost, "super TH115".

SSP218 - another one I haven't heard, great price, supposedly comparable to the "big boy" dual 18" options.  I thought about doing a comparison demo a few times, but even if it's a great, powered, dual 18" sub - it doesn't fit many applications for install where passive, horn loaded, flyable options already exist. 

Most common dual 18" subs just sound mushy to me now. 

[Frank Koenig]

Before deciding on an amp take a look at the control apps. Most can be downloaded and run without being connected to an amp. You're likely planning to use presets, but you might decide to use multiple types of speakers, or different configurations, going forward. To me, at least, the features and usability of the control app matter -- a lot. May your GAS give you pleasure.

--Frank

[Ivan Beaver]

What is the difference in the SM80 and the “M” version aside from aesthetics and lower frequencies?  I see it’s also possible to bi-amp?  If I went with the “M” version, am I sacrificing anything over the standard “SM80” if I want to use it mostly for FOH?

In short, the M version has the same guts, driver/horn/xover etc.

It was originally designed for monitor usage (hence the M suffix), and therefore tuned lower (the SM80 is sealed in a small back chamber.

The biamp reason is because of many riders they insist on "biamped".  Most people using the SM80M use them passive.

The older SM80Ms did not have a pole cup.  The current ones do.

The current versions also have fly points on them.

Both versions have the Sentinel HF protection circuit in them.

[Randall Cook]

...hello again... lol... I think we are going to go with four of the TH118XL.   I currently have a QSC PL340 bridged for each of my current subs.  I know the power rating is good for the TH118XL subs, but I’m looking for opinions whether these amps will be sufficient/efficient for them?  Is there an amp(s) that would be beneficial to have for them that could still be run off of 20-amp circuits/wall plugs?  We’re in a lot of places where standard wall outlets are our only option.  I’ve seen where someone has run 4 of them off of one Powersoft X4; which has a lower advertised power rating.  Sooo...?

[Tim McCulloch]

...hello again... lol... I think we are going to go with four of the TH118XL.   I currently have a QSC PL340 bridged for each of my current subs.  I know the power rating is good for the TH118XL subs, but I’m looking for opinions whether these amps will be sufficient/efficient for them?  Is there an amp(s) that would be beneficial to have for them that could still be run off of 20-amp circuits/wall plugs?  We’re in a lot of places where standard wall outlets are our only option.  I’ve seen where someone has run 4 of them off of one Powersoft X4; which has a lower advertised power rating.  Sooo...?

Contrary to popular opinion you do NOT need megawatts to drive subs unless you're doing EDM with subs designed for that 10Hz-30Hz range, and even then it depends on the impedance curve of the loudspeaker.  If you can put 600Watts, continuous into the TH118xl, you'll find them very loud.  Decide if your program material requires more current for peaks, or not.

The more subbage you need, the more current it draws.  TANSTAAFL.  You can either turn down the level and not trip breakers or the venue/promoter can hire in a generator or pay an electrician to install the proper service.

I don't buy into the bullshit of venues and promoters claiming nothing can be done - it sure can, they just don't want to pony up the $$ to make it happen.  Why should you compromise the system and event (it's YOUR name if the power fails, not theirs) because they're cheap bastards?

[ProSoundWeb Community]