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[Brian Adams]

I just picked up some single phase Prostar hoists and I'm considering connector options for them. These are the only single phase motors in my inventory, or in the inventory of any company I know in the area, and I got them so I'd have motors I could use in places you normally can't.

I'm leaning towards using Neutrik True1 connectors for power rather than twistlocks, due to their smaller size, weather resistance, and the fact that they actually lock. I'm in the process of moving my stage power over to True1 quads, so it would be consistent with that cabling. If I go the True1 route, I'll probably go XLR for control.

Can anyone think of a reason I shouldn't do this? I don't have a whole lot of experience with True1 connectors yet, but they seem like they'll be durable. And it seems like it would be easy enough to have a controller built using those connectors as well, or to modify an existing one.

[Taylor Hall]

It really comes down to whether the motor's power requirements fall within the specs of the powercon connector (250V 20A) and that the cable being used will fit through the strain relief. The latter will probably be the main concern as people have run into that issue a lot in the past with beefier cables used in the speakon versions.

[Rob Spence]

If it were me, I would not use 3 pin XLRs for motor control. Perhaps 4 pin?

I get a bad feeling thinking about some worker plugging a mixer input or output into a motor.

[Brian Adams]

If it were me, I would not use 3 pin XLRs for motor control. Perhaps 4 pin?

I get a bad feeling thinking about some worker plugging a mixer input or output into a motor.

Thanks Rob, that's a fair point. I'm not sure exactly what that would do to the motor or the equipment, but it definitely wouldn't be good. 4 pin XLR is rated for 10A, 5 and 6 are 7.5A, and 7 pin is 5A. I think any of them would handle the control voltage and current, which is really low. Good idea!

Taylor, the motors spec a 2.7A draw at full load, so any normal power connector should handle the current.

[Weogo Reed]

Hi Brian,

We recently got an electrical car.
I bought an EVSE(charging management device) that is dual voltage  -  120V or 240V.  OpenEVSE.com
I terminated it with TrueOne.  The 240V socket at home is TrueOne, and I have a 120V Edison~TrueOne adapter cable for use at friends homes.
Am quite happy with it. 

In addition to cable OD, another possible fly in the ointment is the possibility of plugging a 120V-only device in to a 240V TrueOne socket. 
Label connections well, meter before plugging in. 

Thanks and good health,  Weogo

[Rob Spence]

Thanks Rob, that's a fair point. I'm not sure exactly what that would do to the motor or the equipment, but it definitely wouldn't be good. 4 pin XLR is rated for 10A, 5 and 6 are 7.5A, and 7 pin is 5A. I think any of them would handle the control voltage and current, which is really low. Good idea!

Taylor, the motors spec a 2.7A draw at full load, so any normal power connector should handle the current.

I don’t expect the sound gear to hurt the motor but I am sure connecting the motor control to a mixer would not be good.

[Mark Cadwallader]

Although Brian didn't specify, because he is making stage power quad boxes with True 1, I assumed he had a 120 volt system.

[Russell Ault]

Although Brian didn't specify, because he is making stage power quad boxes with True 1, I assumed he had a 120 volt system.

The fear would be that some day on some cross-rental you'd find a burnt-out motor plugged into a True1 with 208V on it. Assuming the motors are only 120V, the advantage of using an L5 connector is that the chances of it seeing the wrong voltage are smaller.

-Russ

[Josh Rawls]

A company I work for uses NL-8 connectors. Works great!

At the motor you have both power and control going into a NL-8. At the controller side you have a NL-8 breakout to power and control. Use couplers to join the NL-8 run to each end.

Just one cable to run, and cables you likely have on hand anyways.

[Tim McCulloch]

A company I work for uses NL-8 connectors. Works great!

At the motor you have both power and control going into a NL-8. At the controller side you have a NL-8 breakout to power and control. Use couplers to join the NL-8 run to each end.

Just one cable to run, and cables you likely have on hand anyways.

It's actually a Code-violating idea.  SpeakON connnectors are not Listed for this use.  And if using regular speaker cable, it's certainly not to Code.

[ProSoundWeb Community]