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[Kirby Yarbrough]

I have to be the last guy on the planet to hear about this, but just in case.  I have a lot of the K&M mic stands with boom arms, and over time they begin to droop, especially when fully extended.  The simple trick is to disassemble the clutch and wash all the parts, especially the rubber washers (I used a household cleaner), wipe dry, reassemble and hey presto, it no longer takes Hercules Unchained to keep them in position.

[Geoff Doane]

And while you're at it, replace those hateful "wingnut" things with the "bar-bell" part that the more expensive stands use.  You can get some real torque, and it supports the mic cable as it comes down the boom and drops down to the floor.  The part number is 6-30351-1-55, and should be available from your K+M dealer.  The threads are the same size.

GTD

[Geert Friedhof]

All parts are readily available for K&M stands, and cost next to nothing. I recently refurbished most of my K&M 200's. I ordered like 30-40 parts, and it cost me maybe $35...

[Helge A Bentsen]

K&M are great.
I still have some stands marked «Made in W-Germany»

[Taylor Hall]

And while you're at it, replace those hateful "wingnut" things with the "bar-bell" part that the more expensive stands use.  You can get some real torque, and it supports the mic cable as it comes down the boom and drops down to the floor.  The part number is 6-30351-1-55, and should be available from your K+M dealer.  The threads are the same size.

GTD

Those are usually the first thing I replace on any piece of equipment, if for no other reason than the press-fit threaded metal insert usually strips out after the second use or so...

[John Halliburton]

I have to be the last guy on the planet to hear about this, but just in case.  I have a lot of the K&M mic stands with boom arms, and over time they begin to droop, especially when fully extended.  The simple trick is to disassemble the clutch and wash all the parts, especially the rubber washers (I used a household cleaner), wipe dry, reassemble and hey presto, it no longer takes Hercules Unchained to keep them in position.

You can order parts from their U.S. distributor(Connelly Music I believe), or Full Compass has a pretty good selection of K&M parts on hand.  I just replace the rubber/fiber washers, as usually they get hard over time, which contributes greatly to the slipping problem. 

I also have preferred the barbell type elbow tighteners too.

And as stated elsewhere, costs are pretty darned reasonable.


Best regards,

John

[Eric Snodgrass]

You can order parts from their U.S. distributor(Connelly Music I believe), or Full Compass has a pretty good selection of K&M parts on hand.  I just replace the rubber/fiber washers, as usually they get hard over time, which contributes greatly to the slipping problem. 

I also have preferred the barbell type elbow tighteners too.

And as stated elsewhere, costs are pretty darned reasonable.


Best regards,

John

Agreed.  I purchased a K&M clutch replacement kit from Full Compass for $11. 

[W. Mark Hellinger]

Over the decades I've replaced the plastic (?) friction washers with home-made leather washers.  This wasn't my idea... as I recall back in the '70's was when I discovered leather friction washers were seemingly common (back then) in boom arm tilt adjustment clutches.  Anyhoo:  the leather washers seem to work great, decade after decade... for me anyway.

[Les Kanekuni]

You can also pick up some of these:
https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/543227-kandm-21105-counterweight-for-boom-arms]https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/543227-kandm-21105-counterweight-for-boom-arms[/url]

[Riley Casey]

I just want a quick and easy way to re-tap to a larger size all the boom extender nuts that ham fisted musicians and stagehands strip out routinely.

[ProSoundWeb Community]