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[Spenser Hamilton]

Hey guys,
 I have been busy in the woodshop, taking a crack at the Smithers Wedge, loaded with B&C 12FCX76.

 I have two questions:

• Does anybody have any experience comparing the B&C crossovers versus biamping the cab.
• Looking at LG IPD series for power. Would an IPD1200 be sufficient, or should I spring for the 2400? (My instinct says to bone up for the 2400)

Thanks Guys!

Pictures:
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoDBcT5XoTZzxmzIgf53U1Vd7C69
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoDBcT5XoTZzxm1jt43rXdcDbE-q

[Don Davis]

Hey guys,
 I have been busy in the woodshop, taking a crack at the Smithers Wedge, loaded with B&C 12FCX76.

 I have two questions:

• Does anybody have any experience comparing the B&C crossovers versus biamping the cab.
• Looking at LG IPD series for power. Would an IPD1200 be sufficient, or should I spring for the 2400? (My instinct says to bone up for the 2400)

Thanks Guys!

Pictures:
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoDBcT5XoTZzxmzIgf53U1Vd7C69
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoDBcT5XoTZzxm1jt43rXdcDbE-q

Hi Spenser,
A five years ago I built 4 coax wedges using B&C 12FHX76s. I have them set up to run either biamp or passive using the B&C crossovers. I find the passive works very well. I prefer biamp but coming up with the right DSP settings is tricky.
I've had a lot of artists comment on how good they sound.

[Mal Brown]

Spenser, if you don’t yet have a grill, Reliable Hardware does nice work with bends for the stand off of you like.   Coating wise, a pint. Of Duraatex from Leland Crooks at SpeakerHardware.com is easy to work with and quite durable.  It also outgasses water vapor and no nasties while curing.

[Rick Powell]

If you use the recommended B&C X0-4 crossover, there are 2 ceramic capacitors. One of them is awkwardly mounted on part of the board where there is not much holding it on, and the leads are prone to breakage after the cap starts working loose; I had 2 of them fail and then replaced all 4. If you get the crossovers, I suggest you de-solder and remove the caps, Goop the crap out of them and remount and re-solder. Also, if I had to do it all over again, I would spring for the lighter Neo version of the coax.

[Chris Grimshaw]

 I have two questions:

• Does anybody have any experience comparing the B&C crossovers versus biamping the cab.
• Looking at LG IPD series for power. Would an IPD1200 be sufficient, or should I spring for the 2400? (My instinct says to bone up for the 2400)

The 1200 will do 300w/ch into 8ohm, and the 2400 will do about 600w/ch into 8ohm.
Since the midbass section alone will handle 350w continuously (and then consider crossover losses and a second driver to power), I'd go for the bigger amp.

That said, if you can hold off purchasing those amps, the Powersoft T-series (which they've only just started talking about) is worth a look. I've had a set for a little while now and they get a thumbs-up for sure.

Chris

[Spenser Hamilton]

Thanks all. In no particular order

• Don, did you happen to get any measurements with the XO-4?
• Mal, I typically get my Grills from Penn. I have a good friend that handles a lot of their Canadian distribution. One of these days I am going to take the plunge and try Duratex, currently it is covered in Behr latex paint.
• Chris, do you have any inclination of where that is going to land price wise vs. the Labs?

[Chris Grimshaw]

Huh, the Powersoft T-series amps are now on their website.

With regards to pricing, I'm seeing the IPD2400 online for about £1300. My Powersoft dealer here in the UK is offering a T304 for similar money, which is 4x 750w with some very nice processing.
If you know a Lab Gruppen dealer, you'll probably be able to get below the £1300. YMMV.

Chris

Edit - Here's my review of the T-series - https://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/topic,169899.0.html

[Don Davis]

Thanks all. In no particular order

• Don, did you happen to get any measurements with the XO-4?

I did not have a chance to. They rarely come out of the trailer these days since we went to IEMs.

[ProSoundWeb Community]