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[RaySoly]

I was called in a small venue where we did a PA design/install several years ago to see if we could solve an issue with some extra pole mounts speaker systems they purchased recently. They now have several pairs of SRX812P/SRX 818sp subs, (these are usually rented out) mounting on the subs is done with Gator id sub poles (gas piston)...it fits nicely with the threaded end (M20) on the sub but the 812 is quite unstable on the top end, it does not fit neatly actually leans quite a bit to the side with the "straight" mounting hole and try as they might they can't get them to stay straight and keep the directional angle, they just pivot as if the hole is too large (it actually flares out at the bottom of the 812) it also rattles  ..other speakers usually have a screw of some type to tighten the speaker to the pole but these don't...Any tricks/suggestions ? in this case the cheaper the better as they don't have a technical crew,  it's usually operated by volonteers or on a "bring your own crew "format.....simple would be nice too.

thx

Ray

[Kemper Watson]

We have several pairs of SRX812P/SRX 818sp subs, mounting on the subs is done with Gator id sub poles (gas piston)...it fits nicely with the threaded end on the sub but the 812 is quite unstable on the top end, it does not fit neatly actually leans quite a bit to the side with the "straight" mounting hole and try as we might we can't get them to stay straight and keep the directional angle they just pivot as if the hole is too large for the pole which also rattles at the pole/cabinet junction ..other speakers usually have a screw of some type to tighten the speaker to the pole but these don't...Any tricks/suggestions ?

thx

Ray

A pair of these work really well.


https://produkte.k-m.de/en/Speakerlighting-and-monitor-stands-and-holders/Accessories-for-speaker-stands/21441-Adapter-sleeve-Ring-Lock-black

Or you can do away with the adaptor.


https://produkte.k-m.de/en/Speakerlighting-and-monitor-stands-and-holders/Distance-and-extension-rods/21340-Distance-rod-with-hand-crank-and-Ring-Lock-black

[Tim McCulloch]

Wooden toothpicks used as wedges between pole and cup.  Extra goodness if you can find the "World's Fair" brand of tapered, square toothpicks.

EDIT ps - the Worlds Fair toothpicks are now collectors items, it seems.  There are other square picks with tapered, rounded points.  Forster, the "World's Fair" maker is still in business and make what looks like the same item without the WF name.  Diamond makes a similar pick, too.

[Debbie Dunkley]

I try to use my tilters that Dave Garoutte makes even if I don't need the angle because they fit so nicely and tighten every thing up.
However, if I am not using them, as I mentioned in another thread, I use my home made shims.
I take large empty plastic containers like vinegar or milk containers and I cut them up into pieces 1" x 3". The curve of the bottle makes them perfect to slot between the pole and the outer edge of the cup leaving a small piece exposed to pull out at the end of the night.
I place them at the back so the speaker tilts slightly down at the front and they cannot be seen. I keep a little baggie of them in my kit and because I lose one or two of them along the way, every 6 months or so I make more - free and effective.

[Steve Garris]

A pair of these work really well.


https://produkte.k-m.de/en/Speakerlighting-and-monitor-stands-and-holders/Accessories-for-speaker-stands/21441-Adapter-sleeve-Ring-Lock-black

Or you can do away with the adaptor.


https://produkte.k-m.de/en/Speakerlighting-and-monitor-stands-and-holders/Distance-and-extension-rods/21340-Distance-rod-with-hand-crank-and-Ring-Lock-black

The top K&M clamp-on unit will eventually dent you poles from the set screw.

The second link is what I would do if you require crank stands. I have the K&M poles that don't have the crank, and they are excellent for my heavy SRX815p tops.

I've messed around with shims with limited success. The expanding mandrel type from K&M works really well. I wish more speaker poles would address this issue.

[RaySoly]

thanks all for the suggestions, we tried shims and tape also =not great...anyone tried these? k&M

Ray

[Debbie Dunkley]

The top K&M clamp-on unit will eventually dent you poles from the set screw.

The second link is what I would do if you require crank stands. I have the K&M poles that don't have the crank, and they are excellent for my heavy SRX815p tops.

I've messed around with shims with limited success. The expanding mandrel type from K&M works really well. I wish more speaker poles would address this issue.

This is the main reason I stopped using my K&M tilters. They mess up stands so bad - I tried using gaffer tape to stop the damage but it didn't really work well. In the end I didn't tighten them at all to avoid damage but this didn't hold them in place. This is where Nimrod and Dave's tilters are very kind to speaker poles.
I find the home made shims work great and take 2 seconds to install.

[Debbie Dunkley]

thanks all for the suggestions, we tried shims and tape also =not great...anyone tried these? k&M

Ray

YES these do work well but you can't get them tight enough. I find the plastic ones work better than the metal ones for this though.
adaptor

Just to clarify - I use these on my lighting stands to better marry 1-1/2" T clamps to 1-3/8" poles.

[RaySoly]

YES these do work well but you can't get them tight enough. I find the plastic ones work better than the metal ones for this though.
adaptor

Just to clarify - I use these on my lighting stands to better marry 1-1/2" T clamps to 1-3/8" poles.

ahhh, ok thanks Debbie, so plastic then  :K&M plastic

Ray

[Mike Pyle]

ahhh, ok thanks Debbie, so plastic then  :K&M plastic

Ray

That sleeve won't work. 38 mm is nearly 1.5" diameter. I have used these little K&M rubber rings before, and keep some in stock. For quite a while they were out and I thought discontinued, but I see them again on the current product list.

K&M 85890

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