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[Mal Brown]

3 m lengths, 3 to 4 across the front on dl3900L (Thanks Mike Pyle). 2 in back, goal post style

3 to 4 led pars per segment.

Movers need to come off to survive no doubt.
Leave non movers on ? 
Use a quick disconnect clamp ?  If so, which ?

I’m thinking hard mounted 4 way box centered in each segment power and dmx zipped in place. 

[Tim Weaver]

I don't actually see a question there.


Plenty of touring acts travel with movers in the truss. They are usually locked down somehow. Either with factory locks or bungee nets just to keep them from swinging around and bouncing off the endpoints.

[Jeff Lelko]

As Alex Trebek would say, could you phrase this in the form of a question please?  Or at least provide enough coherent details to start a discussion?

But yes, as Tim correctly stated there are many solutions to moving truss with fixtures still attached.  In industry the product actually designed for this is called Pre-rig Trussing - usually available in both single and double hung flavors.  I’ve seen some neat designs by Tait that allow large moving lights to swing up into the truss for transit as well.

Assuming you’re talking 12” box here, there are ways to fabricate truss dollys that give the necessary spacing to leave fixtures attached.  Just be careful when you carry it since the fixtures will be outside of the box.  Hope this helps!

[Steve Garris]

3 m lengths, 3 to 4 across the front on dl3900L (Thanks Mike Pyle). 2 in back, goal post style

3 to 4 led pars per segment.

Movers need to come off to survive no doubt.
Leave non movers on ? 
Use a quick disconnect clamp ?  If so, which ?

I’m thinking hard mounted 4 way box centered in each segment power and dmx zipped in place.

Mal, have you selected the lights? That truss setup will look very cool. I'd look for very lightweight led pars to be fixed in the truss, and mount your movers separately due to the overall weight. Look forward to seeing a pic of this rig.

[Mal Brown]

Mal, have you selected the lights? That truss setup will look very cool. I'd look for very lightweight led pars to be fixed in the truss, and mount your movers separately due to the overall weight. Look forward to seeing a pic of this rig.

I have 22 9x10 RGBW watt color mixers from MonoPrice.  This will be the fourth season on them.   The lights are pretty light construction.  I’ve done a few repairs.  Also a couple of 30 watt movers from them which are OK.   I’m adding in some 60 watt movers from Marq. 

12” Triangle truss.  Ordered the stands and base plates from Mike Pyle.

Trying for the quickest deployment but safest transport.   

My inclination is to build a couple of fixture specific crates or the led pars and some additional for the movers.  Deploy and strike per show. 

One question is,  If I do that, what is the best clamp out there supporting ‘quick’ deploy and quick strike.

Now I need to go review some of the materials mentioned above.  If I can figure out how to safely leave the pars attached, that would be awesome.

[Jeff Lelko]

One question is,  If I do that, what is the best clamp out there supporting ‘quick’ deploy and quick strike.

There are several types of quick-release clamps available.  A quick Google search will turn up plenty of results.  Just make sure you get the right size to match the truss you bought.     

[Mal Brown]

There are several types of quick-release clamps available.  A quick Google search will turn up plenty of results.  Just make sure you get the right size to match the truss you bought.     

Sure, already done that... on the other hand I trust the info I gather here so when there are favorites, I tend to weigh that heavily...  my decision to go with DL-3900L’s rather than the default ST-132 was informed by the opinions of folks here.

I do tend to ask a bunch of questions here.  Generally to confirm what google has informed  me.  No sense in ignoring the experiences of respected colleagues.

...and from you I leaned to look at Tait and for Pre Rig Trussing.

My truss is 12” triangle.  Aluminum.  Global Truss F33

[Jeff Lelko]

Sure, already done that... on the other hand I trust the info I gather here so when there are favorites, I tend to weigh that heavily...  my decision to go with DL-3900L’s rather than the default ST-132 was informed by the opinions of folks here.

I think that was an excellent decision!  I would have done the same thing if I was in the market for an ST-132 replacement.  As far as clamps go, it all really depends on what you want out of it.  If you want a basic quick release I vote for this.  I don't think you can really beat those in terms of up/down time since there isn't anything to screw tight and there are no tools required.  Some folks prefer the snap/trigger clamps, and the advantage there is that you don't have to hold up the weight of a (potentially) very heavy fixture while you tighten the clamp down...  You can even tighten or release them single-handedly.  Safety first though!

If you can swing the lights into the truss for transport that'll probably be your best bet, but I don't think your truss is big enough for that.  You can either build dollies to support the truss with fixtures still attached or you can take them off and case them.  It all depends on how gentle you are with your gear.  Cables can also be prerigged, but keep in mind that I've seen more cables get mangled in transit than I have fixtures.  There's no right or wrong way to do this per say so long as everything makes the trip intact and that your load-in/out is smooth and professional.  Hope this helps!

[Mal Brown]

Thanks Jeff, that one had caugh my eye.  The super basic clamp from global has as well.  About $7 per unit.

I am very careful with my gear and emphasize that with crew.  I’m beginning to think that a custom dolly or two and leaving them loaded - at least the fixed led pars would be best.  Dollies might become cradles that ride on top of my subs in the truck...

I had fun looking through Tait!  I’m not quite there ...  Those guys have it going on for certain!  The Phish pics are amazing to me.

[Terry Martin]

I have clamps that remain on the truss.  I added short stubby all thread with a wing nut.  We mount 8 scanners to the truss each show.  Clamps staying on the truss allows consistent placement show to show, so we don’t have to modify scenes.  We only adjust angle of the fixtures depending on trim height. 
LED pars have S hook style clamps and the just hang is approximate same spot each time.  DMX and power is pre-rigged (zip ties) and we use the Donner wifi DMX dongles on the first fixture in the truss. 
I don’t have any pics handy if the rigging but could get some if needed. The truss goes up quick if everyone is on their game. 




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[Mike Pyle]

For lights that hang under the truss I prefer this style clamp:

http://globaltruss.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ItemNumber=547&MainId=9&Category=16

Obviously it's best to have case lids tall enough to leave the hardware on the lights.

[Dave Garoutte]

Or mine, if I can ever get time to produce them.
Bolt-on or quick release.
Fail-safe hang, no tools to tighten, doesn't dent the truss, clamps from 1" to 2 1/4" diameter.

[Rob Spence]

I like the clamps from “the light source”.



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[Terry Martin]

For simple 1x led pars, these work well and are more than adequate in my experience.  They are not great for “hanging” over the truss, but do the job for hanging under.  Very quick to deploy and recover.   



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[Terry Martin]

So do I, Ive got quite a few of them. 

I like the clamps from “the light source”.



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[Steve Garris]

So do I, Ive got quite a few of them. 


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Same here, not quick release though..
https://goo.gl/Y71WJf

[Dave Garoutte]

Same here, not quick release though..
https://goo.gl/Y71WJf

I hate these.
This type of clamp can't help but damage your truss, plus you will drop the wrench at some point.

[Jeff Lelko]

I hate these.
This type of clamp can't help but damage your truss, plus you will drop the wrench at some point.

I'm not a huge fan of these either but own buckets of them!  They're more or less standard issue in theatrical environments, especially when the the venue is very old and the "stuff" you have available to hang lights from isn't standard diameter.  On the bright side, they don't have a pan bolt like many other similar clamps, so it's one less opportunity to drop the wrench!  Dropping the fixture or yourself is still an option though. 

[ProSoundWeb Community]