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[Joel T. Glaser]

Jeff, Thanks for the ideas.  I have a truck that is 92" wide on the inside.  I have come up with a 84" or 7' bar which will leave me enough room to turn the meat rack around in the truck.  I am going to have a meat rack built to handle 6 bars of lights. 
......

William, I'd love to see pictures/plans of whatever you end up with for your racks. Been thinking about building something for my light bars. Any input is much appreciated. - Joel

[William Schnake]

William, I'd love to see pictures/plans of whatever you end up with for your racks. Been thinking about building something for my light bars. Any input is much appreciated. - Joel

Joel, it will be a couple of months before we get this project done.  I will make sure that I post pics back to this post.

If the .063" wall tubing works for you, that's cool. FWIW, Innote that even light-duty truss like Global is .080" (2 mm) wall thickness.  Standard truss is .125" (3 mm).  Because of the way aluminum fails (suddenly, compared to steel) you might want to inspect those bars more frequently to look for stress risers in the tubing.

Mark, we will definitely be using aluminum.  I am thinking .125 due to the weight of the 4 lights to a bar.  Safety first.


Because my bars were hold-outs from my days of using pre-rigged truss and a 120 can PAR 64 "standard rig".  I chose the 15" center to center spacing that was used for the 6 light Socopex PRT bars.  I use only 4 LED "cans" per bar on a 58" bar to keep it from being too heavy.  My LED's are not as large or heavy as yours are.

Don, I use 15" on center for my 7 x 18 pars and that works great.  However, as you point out that is not enough room for the larger 18 x 18 lights that we use.

Thanks to all of their help.

Bill

[Don T. Williams]

If the .063" wall tubing works for you, that's cool. FWIW, Innote that even light-duty truss like Global is .080" (2 mm) wall thickness.  Standard truss is .125" (3 mm).  Because of the way aluminum fails (suddenly, compared to steel) you might want to inspect those bars more frequently to look for stress risers in the tubing.

Noted.  This could be a concern if this was structural in nature.   In my case, there are only four light-weight led "pars" (about 6 lbs ea.) attached to the bars.  The bars are clamped to my truss using two "double cheeseburger" clamps rated at 250Kg each with safety cables around the truss.  The "double cheeseburgers" are between the outer and inner pairs of "pars" - par-clamp-par-par-clamp par.  Pre wired and in sets of four it saves time and labor.  I would never consider using even a small "mover" or heavier light on this tubing.

[William Schnake]

I would never consider using even a small "mover" or heavier light on this tubing.

Don, good point.  We would only attach movers directly to the truss, never to a light bar.

Bill

[Mark Cadwallader]

Noted.  This could be a concern if this was structural in nature.   In my case, there are only four light-weight led "pars" (about 6 lbs ea.) attached to the bars.  The bars are clamped to my truss using two "double cheeseburger" clamps rated at 250Kg each with safety cables around the truss.  The "double cheeseburgers" are between the outer and inner pairs of "pars" - par-clamp-par-par-clamp par.  Pre wired and in sets of four it saves time and labor.  I would never consider using even a small "mover" or heavier light on this tubing.

Very good. You guys think about what you are doing before you do it.  My point was mostly for more casual (or new) folks who might be looking for a shortcut or a cheap "solution" without knowing all of the important caveats.

[ProSoundWeb Community]