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[GT Hill]

You can try going direct to see if anything changes. I'm convinced that there is a connection error somewhere. I'm thinking that the stereo unbalanced tip-ring-sleeve (Left-Right-Ground) is getting plugged into a balanced connector Hot-Cold-ground and the Left and Right channels are being cancelled in some way. When you use the "aux cord" (which is an 1/8 in or 3.5mm TRS) does it break out into two separate left and right connectors or is it 3.5mm on both ends? Where does the aux cord connect?

Also with a phoenix connector is it 3 pin or 5 pin. 5 pin is usually balanced 2 channel with L+,L-,Ground,R+,R-. What connections do you have to the processor? More detail here might help hunt down the issue.

LOU

Not sure if we are talking about the same thing; I don't use the Aux cord anymore but b/c it sounded like the speakers were blown (I was scared for a bit actually). My current setup is the Apple TV one.

But, there's a lot between the source and the speakers so eliminating some of that for testing seems smart.

Its 3 pin on the processor. I found a pic online (below).

Thanks!

GT

[Lou Kohley]

Not sure if we are talking about the same thing; I don't use the Aux cord anymore but b/c it sounded like the speakers were blown (I was scared for a bit actually). My current setup is the Apple TV one.

But, there's a lot between the source and the speakers so eliminating some of that for testing seems smart.

Its 3 pin on the processor. I found a pic online (below).

Thanks!

GT

OK so for clarification the chain looks like this.

Apple TV connects with either HDMI or Optical to
Yamaha Receiver out via?? RCA stereo? to
Mixer plugged into two channels?
Output from stereo out via? to two inputs of Ashly DSP.

Can you fill in the gaps here to see if there is any issue?

LOU

[Jeremy Young]

Hi GT. 

You mentioned the processor crossover settings as being "what Danley recommends" but I believe they only make a recommendation on the high-pass filter (removing extremely low-frequency content that's outside the cabinet's effective range and therefore increasing amplifier headroom and avoiding damage to the drivers by over-excursion). Edit: Just confirmed, manufacturer recommends 25Hz HPF @ 24dB BW.  For the crossover between the 15" in the tops and the sub, do you have any overlap (as in, what are you using for a subwoofer LPF and top box HPF frequency)?

A lot of the perceived "punch" of a kick-drum comes from the area typically covered by both cabinets (low mids) to some degree (with the "whack" of the beater coming from the horns), so getting it to "hit hard" with authority requires some time-alignment (signal delay) to ensure that both impulses meet the listener at the same time and in-phase.  This is especially important with horn-loaded cabinets, since the length of the horn adds time of flight to the signal.

Spending some time with an analyzer like SMAART or similar would allow you to adjust your crossover slopes for a summed-flat magnitude response, do some polarity tests, and determine the best delay to use to align the two cabinets. 

Flying the tops away from the subs means that they will never be perfectly time aligned throughout the whole area (since the difference in distance between the two sources will change with positioning more-so than if they were co-located).  You'll just have to find a setting that gives you the best possible alignment for the largest possible part of the listening area (or most important section IE: VIP seats).


FWIW, it's unlikely that the level you would get from your aux-cord would give you enough level to drive your amplifiers to full output.  But again, i am not intimately familiar with your particular gear.  Generally speaking, the signal coming from your headphone amplifier will be somewhere around mic-level, and you'll need something more around line-level for your amps, which is what the mic-preamp in the mixer is doing for you.


Sounds like quite the venue....  and definitely not worth hauling the gear outside. Let's try to fix it in the space, but we need to rule out an interconnect problem or level-problem before stepping into system tuning 101.

[Rob Spence]

You say the tops are flown and pointed down a little.

How high are they and where is the speaker actually aimed?
At only 37’ max distance, I would think you need to point em down quite a bit to keep the sound off the back curved wall.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

[Mike Caldwell]

Just to cover all our bases.  What is the connection from the airplay receiver to the dsp and then to the amp. Is the stereo signal getting summed properly. Could it be cancelling due to a polarity inversion there?

Good luck.

LOU

This was going to be one of my first suggestions to look at as well.

In short, you can not take a stereo source and have the left and right channels going into a single balanced input as in wiring the right to + and left to - or visa versa. You need to use a proper stereo summing adapter/DI box to provide you with a true balanced output......or wire the left and right to two separate balanced inputs an connecting those inputs as an unbalanced input connection. To do that take your + stereo line and connect it to the + balanced input and then take the shield and connect it to both the - and the ground on the balanced input.
On an XLR connection pin 2 is +, pin 3 is - and pin 1 is ground.

You may indeed have other issues but that will not matter if the input is not correct.