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[Mark Wilkinson]

Dan, IMO, the powered 218 with ice-amps is home theatre...
Just go passive ...then concerns melt away...

[Steve Litscher]

Regarding the rain covers, the covers I've seen have been nylon, and I presume the amp modules generate heat. Don't they melt nylon if in direct contact?

The rain shields I've seen are made of stiff plastic or metal and bolt on with ventilation, but I'm not in a mood these days to design and build something like that which would indeed protect the modules from weather and handling, but which would add depth to an already deep box (aren't the 212's 3' deep when in use? And the 218's as deep if not deeper? I confess that after making a decision not to look further into them, that info has exited my brain) if the shields were left on permanently, and if left off expose an amp module with protruding switches and knobs, or maybe one of each, to damage that I'd then have to design something to protect that situation.

These boxes seem like they'd be fine for unpowered use, but then in my specific case I'm replacing something I already have and like which works fine (old unpowered Bag End double 18's) with essentially the same thing, except I've spent $10,000+ to do so and get enough of them.

If I didn't already have a solution, these boxes do seem better in that they're lighter and newer technology.

YMMV, of course.

Sounds like you've got a good solution that you're happy with.

Regarding the heat of the amplifiers... From what I've experienced, they get warm, but never so hot that you can't touch them, so I seriously doubt that anything would melt if it cam in contact with them. We've used UnderCover NYC covers with zero issues and zero degradation in performance.

The warmest I've ever seen the amplifiers get was on an early September day, full sun, 103-104F ambient... the amps were quite warm, but not so hot as to melt nylon or plastic or anything else. Two of our DSR112s shut themselves off because of the heat; the C218Pro kept pounding away.

Regarding depth/size, the C212Pro are 22" deep and the C218Pro are about 32" deep. The C218Pro are *serious* subs. I'd put them up against the 9006 all day long, and they'll still play lower than the 9007. I've mixed on all three, and I'd have zero concerns using the C218Pro in almost any situation.

The "protruding knobs" still sit flush with the back of the cabinet; no different than the 9006 and 9007 with their DSP controller knob. It's not like the amplifier plate is bolted to the back of the box; it's recessed into the cabinet, just like any other pro sub design.

The only real gripes, IMHO are the lack of PowerCon and the extra switches. In terms of power and reliability, I've had 3 RCF amplifier failures, zero with the JTR. SpeakerPower builds some pretty reliable and robust stuff.

I sound like a broken record, I'm sure... but Jeff has got some killer subs here. A little more tweaking, and they'd be game changers. Heck, they already are, as they cost 1/2 as much as the 9006 and will keep-up, if not out-run it, all day long.
 

[Ron Ventour]

Does anyone have the passive version of the Cap 218 pro? would like to know how the input connections are set up in the back, is it one connection for both drivers or 2 separate connections for each drivers?

 Is there a through connector for another sub? How much power would you throw at this sub? I think someone mentioned the passive version come in 8 and 2 ohm loads only.

Do the Cap 218 have the same output or similar of a Orbit Shifter?

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[drew gandy]

So, does this mean the pendulum has swung back to vented boxes again?  Horns are out? 

[John Schalk]

So, does this mean the pendulum has swung back to vented boxes again?  Horns are out?

From conversations that I have had with some forum members regarding the Orbit Shifter specifically, some owners have had trouble getting it accepted on riders.  I can't say that is why JTR came out with a double 18" sub in their Pro range, but....  I will add that David at Bassboss, formerly BassMax, builds primarily self-powered, vented boxes now, possible for the same reason.

[Steve Litscher]

Does anyone have the passive version of the Cap 218 pro? would like to know how the input connections are set up in the back, is it one connection for both drivers or 2 separate connections for each drivers?

For the passive versions, there are two metal Neutrik NL4 connectors on the back and they can be wired as either:

a) Direct to each driver (no parallel) for a 4-ohm load per input
b) In parallel for a total load of 8-ohms load

How much power would you throw at this sub?

Jeff recommends 1200-watts RMS per driver. I'd probably look for something with more juice and then limit accordingly.

Do the Cap 218 have the same output or similar of a Orbit Shifter?

This is by no means a scientific measurement.... but, my experience has been that one C218 is equal to about 1.5 OS in terms of total output. Keep in mind, the C218 goes 12Hz lower than the OS, too. From 60Hz-80Hz, they're probably very similar in output per box.

[Ron Ventour]

For the passive versions, there are two metal Neutrik NL4 connectors on the back and they can be wired as either:

a) Direct to each driver (no parallel) for a 4-ohm load per input
b) In parallel for a total load of 8-ohms load


Jeff recommends 1200-watts RMS per driver. I'd probably look for something with more juice and then limit accordingly.


This is by no means a scientific measurement.... but, my experience has been that one C218 is equal to about 1.5 OS in terms of total output. Keep in mind, the C218 goes 12Hz lower than the OS, too. From 60Hz-80Hz, they're probably very similar in output per box.

Thanks Steve, but in parallel wouldn't it be 2-ohms since the drivers are 4-ohms each?

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[Steve Litscher]

Thanks Steve, but in parallel wouldn't it be 2-ohms since the drivers are 4-ohms each?

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I talked directly with Jeff this morning to confirm, and that’s what he said. 8-ohms with parallel connection.

I’m guessing he could do 2-ohm as well.




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[Ron Ventour]

I talked directly with Jeff this morning to confirm, and that’s what he said. 8-ohms with parallel connection.

I’m guessing he could do 2-ohm as well.




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Ok, so @8-ohms parallel, you can throw 2500w at it?

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[Mac Kerr]

I talked directly with Jeff this morning to confirm, and that’s what he said. 8-ohms with parallel connection.

I’m guessing he could do 2-ohm as well.

I'm guessing that's series not parallel. With 4Ω drivers, 2 in series is 8Ω, 2 in parallel is 2Ω.

Mac

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