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Author Topic: Slobber: is 63/37 really any better than 60/40?  (Read 1710 times)

Jeff Bankston

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Re: Slobber: is 63/37 really any better than 60/40?
« Reply #10 on: June 16, 2018, 04:37:39 am »

ask the audiophile guys if they can hear a difference

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Bob Leonard

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Re: Slobber: is 63/37 really any better than 60/40?
« Reply #11 on: June 16, 2018, 06:20:57 am »

I can only presume this is Bob's morning coffee of choice.

It is now Henry!!
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BOSTON STRONG........
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I did a gig for Otis Elevator once. Like every job, it had it's ups and downs.

John Roberts {JR}

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Re: Slobber: is 63/37 really any better than 60/40?
« Reply #12 on: June 16, 2018, 09:58:22 am »

I can only presume this is Bob's morning coffee of choice.
I don't know about that brand but there was at least one health safety recall of cold brewed coffee that was not free of pathogens, something we can take for granted from hot brewed coffee.

JR

PS: Its easy enough to make cold brewed coffee. I just let a batch sit in the fridge over night, the grounds mixed with water, then filter it the next day.
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Don't tune your drums half-ass. Listen to what a properly "cleared" drum sounds like.   http://circularscience.com/

Hayden J. Nebus

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Re: Slobber: is 63/37 really any better than 60/40?
« Reply #13 on: June 17, 2018, 08:03:20 pm »

I don't know about that brand but there was at least one health safety recall of cold brewed coffee that was not free of pathogens, something we can take for granted from hot brewed coffee.

JR

PS: Its easy enough to make cold brewed coffee. I just let a batch sit in the fridge over night, the grounds mixed with water, then filter it the next day.

I do this with a French press. Coffee intelligencia be dammned, the beaker and mesh press is a quick easy way to make decent good coffee.

I find keurigs of all sorts make amber piss no matter what. I'd rather tank up from a $12 Mr coffee than a $189 whizzer.
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Hayden J. Nebus

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Re: Slobber: is 63/37 really any better than 60/40?
« Reply #14 on: June 17, 2018, 08:54:12 pm »

Solder joint reliability withstanding strain or vibration is all about grain size.  Eutectic solder gives a smaller and more uniform grain during solidification.  There are always other things in the solder, even when not deliberately adding silver.  So the intermediate plastic phase allows for grains of other alloys to grow.  Where with eutectic they tend to be frozen in place.

Lead free doesn't really have any true eutectic alloys so it's always a compromise.

The fatigue failure is a bit different between leaded and lead free solder.  Lead based solder creeps.  Grains enlarge, micro fractures develop at the boundaries and get larger as the grain size grows.  Eventually a fracture will propagate across the micro fractures and you have a failure.  Lead free solder is stronger initially and doesn't creep.  Which means that grain growth comes from stress and fractures develop more quickly when they happen.  You can look at a leaded joint and see a rough almost blistered appearance.  It's starting to develop fractures and will go soon.  With lead free it's hard to tell from the outside until a fracture appears, in which case it's often too late.

Disclaimer, back in the '80s I did a bunch of reliability testing on the then new SMT technology at a defense contractor I worked for.  I was part of writing the book on how to make this work.  I was the first to present to the DoD a successful run of 1000 cycles of thermal cycling from -54 to 125C on an LCC44, which was kind of a benchmark at the time.  The pictures of LCC joints in Mil-Std-2000 and the copies in the current commercial industry standard IPC610 came from me and that research.

Thanks Stephen! Fascinating that the toxic stuff does in fact always work better!

One of the ancient Chinese secrets I picked up from the   Non-chlorinated brakleen will do a hell of a job cleaning not just car parts,  but tape heads too, and if used sparingly even resurfacing rubber rollers. It also contains substances known to the state of California to cause cancer and birth defects. Good thing I don't live in California!
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Stephen Kirby

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Re: Slobber: is 63/37 really any better than 60/40?
« Reply #15 on: June 18, 2018, 04:26:08 pm »

It's only toxic if you eat it.  It's not absorbed though the skin and it takes 800 something degrees to vaporize such that it could be inhaled.  If you get it into your system it's an embryotoxin and affects brain development.  Just ask some Romans.  ;)

But, out of an abundance of caution...
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Hayden J. Nebus

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Re: Slobber: is 63/37 really any better than 60/40?
« Reply #16 on: June 22, 2018, 07:58:55 am »

It's only toxic if you eat it.  It's not absorbed though the skin and it takes 800 something degrees to vaporize such that it could be inhaled.  If you get it into your system it's an embryotoxin and affects brain development.  Just ask some Romans.  ;)

But, out of an abundance of caution...


Wait, so you're not supposed to eat it?
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Re: Slobber: is 63/37 really any better than 60/40?
« Reply #16 on: June 22, 2018, 07:58:55 am »


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