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[David Allred]

I had a cheap broken 700w fogger given to me to poke around on.  I spent $6 to replace the bad pump, then the heater clogged.  Tried pumping vinegar though it.... no help.  The fluid line is SS.  The ID is less than .043 (an .042 drill bit will not go).  Two .018 wires will fit, so I am guessing .038-ish.  90-ish psi rubber tipped blower with a "high-pitched fart" seal won't pass air.

The aluminum block is 3 1/4" long and 1 5/8" w.  From what I gather, the tube snakes thru the block, so I estimated between 4 - 5" of length inside the block.  The exposed part of the tube is about 7" with a couple of loop bends.

I have been able to snake an .018 wire about 1/2" in to the block on the entrance end, and about an inch on the exit end.  I presume to the first internal turns. 

I don't want to buy a fog machine (I haven't used one at a gig in a dozen years - alarms and all), or buy a heater.  This is a project.

Would an ultrasonic cleaner breakup the blockage?  Will the cleaning solution (which I assume has to contact the blockage for the waves to do their thing) be able to travel up such a small channel (even on the exit end)?

I would consider buying a cleaner if it will unclog the heater, because I could then use it to clean the wife's jewelry and maybe other stuff too.  But I would not buy it to clean other stuff if it won't do the trick for the heater.

I thought about taking it to a jewelry store, but I don't know if they would do it.

Final question:  Any danger to ceramic coating on the elements?

Thanks,
David

[Jason Fultz]

I had a cheap broken 700w fogger given to me to poke around on.  I spent $6 to replace the bad pump, then the heater clogged.  Tried pumping vinegar though it.... no help.  The fluid line is SS.  The ID is less than .043 (an .042 drill bit will not go).  Two .018 wires will fit, so I am guessing .038-ish.  90-ish psi rubber tipped blower with a "high-pitched fart" seal won't pass air.

The aluminum block is 3 1/4" long and 1 5/8" w.  From what I gather, the tube snakes thru the block, so I estimated between 4 - 5" of length inside the block.  The exposed part of the tube is about 7" with a couple of loop bends.

I have been able to snake an .018 wire about 1/2" in to the block on the entrance end, and about an inch on the exit end.  I presume to the first internal turns. 

I don't want to buy a fog machine (I haven't used one at a gig in a dozen years - alarms and all), or buy a heater.  This is a project.

Would an ultrasonic cleaner breakup the blockage?  Will the cleaning solution (which I assume has to contact the blockage for the waves to do their thing) be able to travel up such a small channel (even on the exit end)?

I would consider buying a cleaner if it will unclog the heater, because I could then use it to clean the wife's jewelry and maybe other stuff too.  But I would not buy it to clean other stuff if it won't do the trick for the heater.

I thought about taking it to a jewelry store, but I don't know if they would do it.

Final question:  Any danger to ceramic coating on the elements?

Thanks,
David

I have used a syringe and CLR successfully a number of times.
Syringe on the inlet side with a silicon tube over it sealed with a couple of small zip ties.
Pressured up a little in a catch pan over night should get it cleared.
I have used this method a lot and restored heaters to like new condition.

[David Allred]

I have used a syringe and CLR successfully a number of times.
Syringe on the inlet side with a silicon tube over it sealed with a couple of small zip ties.
Pressured up a little in a catch pan over night should get it cleared.
I have used this method a lot and restored heaters to like new condition.

CLR?  That crossed my mind.  Good idea about the pressured sirringe.

Thanks.

[David Allred]

I have used a syringe and CLR successfully a number of times.
Syringe on the inlet side with a silicon tube over it sealed with a couple of small zip ties.
Pressured up a little in a catch pan over night should get it cleared.
I have used this method a lot and restored heaters to like new condition.

 
Success.  Same principle, but I went in reverse.  This heater had a 1/8 straight pipe on the exit.  I got a fem-fem and a plug.  Teflon taped them up.  Screwed on the coupler loosely and filled with clr then screwed in the plug then tightened them to act as a hydraulic piston.  Started getting output almost instantly followed by flakes of stuff.  Several refills of clr, then vinegar, then distilled water.  I tjink tjis metjod would fix any heater clog as long as it has threaded inlet or outlet.

Thanks to Jason for the pressure concept.

[Jason Fultz]

Cool man! Good luck with your toy!

[Tim Weaver]

Cool man! Good luck with your toy!

You can also chuck a guitar string up into a drill and run it inside the tube. Sometimes that action will get it unplugged.

[Rolando Saenz]

CLR?  That crossed my mind.  Good idea about the pressured sirringe.

Thanks.

what is CLR ??

[Tim Weaver]

what is CLR ??

Go to your profile and enter your real name and we'll tell you.

[Rolando Saenz]

Go to your profile and enter your real name and we'll tell you.

Done

[Steve Litcher]

CLR = Calcium Lime Rust remover. Typically found in any big box/grocery/hardware store here in the States.

https://clrbrands.com/Products/CLR-Household/CLR-Calcium-Lime-Rust-Remover

[Rolando Saenz]

CLR = Calcium Lime Rust remover. Typically found in any big box/grocery/hardware store here in the States.

https://clrbrands.com/Products/CLR-Household/CLR-Calcium-Lime-Rust-Remover

Thanks

[Keith Broughton]

You can also chuck a guitar string up into a drill and run it inside the tube. Sometimes that action will get it unplugged.

Great idea Tim!

[Rich Grisier]

I picked up a couple used Chauvet RGB Geysers.  One has developed a clogged heater... oddly enough, this happened while I was running through a 50/50 Distilled Water/White Vinegar cleaning cycle.

I took the unit apart and verified there were no clogs leading up to the inlet of the heater. I also verified the pump was working.

I tried running a guitar string (tried E,  A and D) through the heater, but it appears the path takes a lot of twists and turns.  I ran the string into the inlet about 18" or so before I got scared of breaking it off inside the heater.  It never did make it all the way through.

I tried tried forcing air, water, and vinegar into the inlet with a squeeze bulb, but never got it to come out of the outlet.

So far, none of this has improved the situation.

The last thing for me to try (that I can think of) is what was mentioned here- to use CLR.  I pickup up some CLR, but it states on the bottle "Do not use on steam machines".  For those of you who have used CLR with success, have you had any problems? Is there anything else worth trying?

[Tim Weaver]

Just run distilled water through it after the CLR. You'll be fine.

The warning is for idiots who would put CLR in a steamer and try to huff it.

[Rich Grisier]

Update: I've been trying to run CLR through it for 4 days. The most I can get through is about 1 drop a day. I have a syringe filled with CLR attached to the inlet. Pressure is being applied to the plunger to force liquid into the inlet. I've tried putting a tire pump on the inlet while applying 120 lbs of air pressure.  I can't feel the air coming out the other side.  I've tried the guitar string many times, but it eventually reaches a point where it just won't go any further.

I'm beginning to think this one is a lost cause and I should just get a new heater.

[David Allred]

Update: I've been trying to run CLR through it for 4 days. The most I can get through is about 1 drop a day. I have a syringe filled with CLR attached to the inlet. Pressure is being applied to the plunger to force liquid into the inlet. I've tried putting a tire pump on the inlet while applying 120 lbs of air pressure.  I can't feel the air coming out the other side.  I've tried the guitar string many times, but it eventually reaches a point where it just won't go any further.

I'm beginning to think this one is a lost cause and I should just get a new heater.

Got any way to apply vacuum and draw cleaner backwards.

[Dave Garoutte]

Or blow from the output end.

[Rolando Saenz]

Or blow from the output end.

so what happened

bought a new heater ?
or a new machine

[David Allred]

so what happened

bought a new heater ?
or a new machine

I think I had a couple of fogger threads.  IIRC this one I got cleared by making a "hydraulic" pump with a brass fitting combo that would attach to the exit end and pushed the CLR through and the scale out.  So good results.  The other thread (fogger) I didn't have any luck.  Win some, lose some.

[Rolando Saenz]

I think I had a couple of fogger threads.  IIRC this one I got cleared by making a "hydraulic" pump with a brass fitting combo that would attach to the exit end and pushed the CLR through and the scale out.  So good results.  The other thread (fogger) I didn't have any luck.  Win some, lose some.

I hear you man

Hey, is there somewhere that is your go to supplier of parts for foggers ?

[David Allred]

I hear you man

Hey, is there somewhere that is your go to supplier of parts for foggers ?

ADJ, Chauvet, and other "name brand" manufacturers sell parts.  Pumps for generics are available on Ebay and Amazon if the number on them is present.  Often, they are simply sold by heater wattage and comparing inlet and outlet sizes, and voltage.

[Rich Grisier]

so what happened

bought a new heater ?
or a new machine

Never was able to get the heater line to clear. Ended up buying a new heater core and a few misc fitting parts from Chauvet Parts. Got it up and running.

[Rolando Saenz]

Never was able to get the heater line to clear. Ended up buying a new heater core and a few misc fitting parts from Chauvet Parts. Got it up and running.

ic
i guess that was cost effective instead of buying a brand new unit
sometimes we like to fix things although the repair route is more costly

[ProSoundWeb Community]