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Author Topic: Electrician Fee  (Read 11227 times)

Stephen Kirby

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Re: Electrician Fee
« Reply #10 on: October 25, 2016, 02:22:13 PM »

Around these parts I still run into places with a box and a 30A or 50A breaker that's hanging unlocked for tie-ins.  So having a pigtail off a CS connector is handy.  Usually I have a 14-50 on it that I just take off when confronted with a tie-in box.  Given the questions the OP asks (including the threads on putting together his rig) I wouldn't advocate tying in.  And if I was going to leave things behind I like the idea of a 14-50.  The CS connector is far too expensive.  Maybe over time he can similarly populate his likely venues with 14-50s.

CS connectors are popular here.  At my work, they're all over the place for pop up events.  Most of the larger cities have them where they have events and so on.  The biggest problem I've had has been hotel ballrooms.  They want you to rent their distro so they often have some oddball Ceeform connector that's really expensive to collect the variations of.  Sometimes you can get them to dig up a CS outlet adapter to their internal standard but it often takes some arm twisting.
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Josh Evangelista

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Re: Electrician Fee
« Reply #11 on: November 05, 2016, 02:21:29 PM »

Around these parts I still run into places with a box and a 30A or 50A breaker that's hanging unlocked for tie-ins.  So having a pigtail off a CS connector is handy.  Usually I have a 14-50 on it that I just take off when confronted with a tie-in box.  Given the questions the OP asks (including the threads on putting together his rig) I wouldn't advocate tying in.  And if I was going to leave things behind I like the idea of a 14-50.  The CS connector is far too expensive.  Maybe over time he can similarly populate his likely venues with 14-50s.

CS connectors are popular here.  At my work, they're all over the place for pop up events.  Most of the larger cities have them where they have events and so on.  The biggest problem I've had has been hotel ballrooms.  They want you to rent their distro so they often have some oddball Ceeform connector that's really expensive to collect the variations of.  Sometimes you can get them to dig up a CS outlet adapter to their internal standard but it often takes some arm twisting.

Thanks Stephen. How does a temporary breaker looks like?
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Ray Aberle

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Re: Electrician Fee
« Reply #12 on: November 05, 2016, 05:41:28 PM »

Thanks Stephen. How does a temporary breaker looks like?

It's the same as a permanent breaker. ;) It's a separate 50A breaker you are bringing in to pop into the panel. But, since all manufacturers have different style breakers, you will want to advance to ensure you bring the right style.

-Ray
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Kelcema Audio
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Jeff Bankston

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Re: Electrician Fee
« Reply #13 on: November 05, 2016, 09:01:52 PM »

It's the same as a permanent breaker. ;) It's a separate 50A breaker you are bringing in to pop into the panel. But, since all manufacturers have different style breakers, you will want to advance to ensure you bring the right style.

-Ray
Make sure it has the same symmetrical rating as the other breakers. It will be a number on the label something like > 10,000 , 15,000 , 20,000 etc.

http://peguru.com/2011/06/what-do-symmetrical-asymmetrical-momentary-interrupting-close-latch-ratings-mean/
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Jonathan Johnson

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Re: Electrician Fee
« Reply #14 on: November 07, 2016, 12:04:36 PM »

It's the same as a permanent breaker. ;) It's a separate 50A breaker you are bringing in to pop into the panel. But, since all manufacturers have different style breakers, you will want to advance to ensure you bring the right style.

-Ray

Also note that while a particular breaker may look like what's in the panel, and it may fit in the panel, and is probably safe to use, if the type designation on the breaker does not match what the panel is listed for (read the nomenclature label), then it's technically a violation of the UL listing to use that breaker in that panel.

For example, Schneider/Square D "Homeline" breakers and panels have a type code of HOM. And Siemens/ITE have a type code of QP. And Eaton/Cutler Hammer has a type code of BR. Even though they all look and seem to fit exactly the same, a studious inspector will likely fail the installation.
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Stop confusing the issue with facts and logic!

Ray Aberle

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Re: Electrician Fee
« Reply #15 on: November 08, 2016, 10:28:59 AM »

Also note that while a particular breaker may look like what's in the panel, and it may fit in the panel, and is probably safe to use, if the type designation on the breaker does not match what the panel is listed for (read the nomenclature label), then it's technically a violation of the UL listing to use that breaker in that panel.

For example, Schneider/Square D "Homeline" breakers and panels have a type code of HOM. And Siemens/ITE have a type code of QP. And Eaton/Cutler Hammer has a type code of BR. Even though they all look and seem to fit exactly the same, a studious inspector will likely fail the installation.
That's definitely a good point. (Jeff had a good point as well, but I've never looked at "symmetrical ratings" on breakers, since I always just make sure I am purchasing the exact same breaker that a panel requires...)  That being said, I've never had luck with trying to fit the wrong manufacturer's breaker into a panel, so I would HOPE that just wouldn't work at all!

-Ray
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Kelcema Audio
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Stephen Kirby

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Re: Electrician Fee
« Reply #16 on: November 11, 2016, 02:11:17 AM »

The temporary breaker suggestion was for the OP to have someone qualified put it in and pigtail out to a CS that he could plug a small distro into.  As with the tie-in, I wasn't advocating that he get into a breaker box and try to install anything.  His original question was for a dedicated 30A for his Danley amp and how to get an electrician put one in.  I merely suggested that he get a distro with the 30A circuit along with some regular 20A ones and have a real electrician provide the means for him to plug it in.  I do like the idea if the venues will let him of having a real electrician put stove plugs in for when he comes back to that place.
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Brian Jojade

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Re: Electrician Fee
« Reply #17 on: December 23, 2020, 12:30:26 PM »

We found it was actually less expensive to have an electrician install a NEMA 14-50R and 40 or 50A breaker than to install the cam-lock tails and then come back and take them out.  The return call (especially if it's late at night) costs more than the receptacle, wire and conduit that will get left behind.

+ 1 on this one.  If there's not a 14-50 receptacle and they let you install one, do it!  Now, you can hire the electrician to go in at any time prior to the show to do the install, vs being on a tight schedule for the install.  That can save you $$$.  Additionally, now there's a connection there for future use.  Even if it's not you, you get feel good bonus points for the next guy.

And, maybe, just maybe, someone would have done the same thing for you at your next location so you don't have to worry about it!
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Brian Jojade

ProSoundWeb Community

Re: Electrician Fee
« Reply #17 on: December 23, 2020, 12:30:26 PM »


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