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[Debbie Dunkley]

I used my fly point light set up last night for the first time. Overall, good results - it was a tiny bar with absolutely no room for a light stand whatsoever. I can see what Mike was saying though about the outside lamps being obscured by the front ones if connecting each one directly to the fly points. So I'll investigate using a bar again to prevent this.
I usually use 8 Blizzard Q12's which are nice and bright for larger stages - 12 x 10w. I didn't want to remove the fixtures from the T bars they are wired up to so I used 4 no name Chinese brand lamps that I got cheap and had been using around the drum kit. These are only 7x10w but were more than enough last night.
I controlled them wirelessly with my Luminair software just like I do my Blizzards and they worked like a charm.

[Mike Karseboom]

Debbie, I took on small project a few years ago to reduce the footprint of the band. I took the tripod legs off some unused stands,  cut some angle aluminum, and took some clamps from par cans and put together a stand that attaches to the SOS. I know there have been concerns regarding its stability but it has worked out quite well for us.  They have remained upright and have never leaned or failed after more that 30 gigs.  Sure, if one really pushes on it then it could lean.  However, it will not fall or come unattached as long as the clamps are tightened accordingly.

Brent - very creative! 

[Steve Garris]

Been down similar paths with many of you.  Started with the round bar and the ADJ O-clamps and realized it was more weight and complexity than I wanted.  So went with 2x fixtures bolted directly into the M10 holes. 


Some things to test in the shop before you take them out:


- Check if you can focus the fixtures where you want  without interference from the top of the speaker.  If the speakers are up fairly high and you want to aim them downward, usually at least one of the mount points will result in the light mostly hitting the top of the speaker. 


- If you run your speakers "toed in", The inboard fixture is usually easy to focus.  But the outboard one might actually end up pointing right into the back of the other if you aim it where you want.


- if you tilt your speakers  the added weight on top can reduce the stability as well as increase torque on the top of the speaker pole.  Steel stands with a reasonably wide tripod base can feel safer.


I ended up making an 18" long flat bars that has a hole at each end.  One end bolts into the outboard M10 insert and then the fixture bolts to the other end.  Then bar can be swiveled around to hang off the back of the speaker and greatly improves your  ability to focus that fixture where you want it.  Since it usually pushes the weight toward the back of the speaker, it can help a little with stability on a tilted speaker as well.


Looking at the commercial offering linked in one of the posts above, it has multiple problems for a stage light setup.  Too much weight is one thing.  But if you toe your speakers in the outboard fixtures won't really be usable as stage lights.  They would probably work for blinders, though.  Check out the marketing picture - all the lights are pointing toward the crowd.


Just my 2 cents.

This is exactly my plan to add & widen my front wash.

[Rob Spence]

This is exactly my plan to add & widen my front wash.

I would expand it to say use aluminum flat bars. Less weight but a bit more cost. Also, no rust. Any good welding shop could cut up some 1/4" aluminum plate into a few 4"x18" ish parts. Might be able to use 3/16" for even more weight savings.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Mike Karseboom]

I would expand it to say use aluminum flat bars. Less weight but a bit more cost. Also, no rust. Any good welding shop could cut up some 1/4" aluminum plate into a few 4"x18" ish parts. Might be able to use 3/16" for even more weight savings.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I put some 1/16 inch self stick dense foam on one side of the bar to protect the top of the speaker.  Those EWI amp racks always come with a big sheet of that stuff for some reason.  I never used it in the amp rack but it has proven useful for lots of other things.

[Nathan Vanderslice]

I'll add my 2 cents FWIW. First, I've dealt with this problem in doing lighting in a high school for their concerts (eons ago). The one thing I found was that the angle needs to be fairly steep. In that one example photo, everything is fairly close so that won't be as much of a problem. However, the question is whether you can get the height to get that angle? Also, a bit of color helps a lot even if it's something like a light straw color. Another thought is that if you are using the DMX, run the lights at a little below 100%. You'll still get plenty of light on the performers, but will help with the glare that they object to.

There's one thing that I also want to remind you of. Safety. That goes for all of you. You need to make sure that all supporting pipe etc., is solidly attached, and anything such as the fixtures themselves that are clamped on have safety cables to a secure anchor point. This may sound ridiculous given that the pars and the LED's are fairly light, but the extra steps may save you a lot of grief if something happens and a light falls on someone and hits them or burns them. If you are mounting poles, or other brackets on the speakers, make sure that the base is as wide as possible, and that you have sand bags on the tripods to further stabilize them, especially if they are powered speaker units.

[Graham Spice]

I controlled them wirelessly with my Luminair software just like I do my Blizzards and they worked like a charm.

Can you explain how your hardware connects to the iPad running Luminair software? Thanks

[Debbie Dunkley]

Can you explain how your hardware connects to the iPad running Luminair software? Thanks

I use enttec ODE

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ODE?adpos=1o1&creative=55686349801&device=t&matchtype=&network=g&product_id=ODE&gclid=CNqD4LKAmNECFUE6gQodnWsFJg

I then have to use a 5 to 3 pin DMX adapter and then to DMX cable attached to first fixture.
It has been completely reliable.

I just got one of these:

https://dmxking.com/artnetsacn/edmx1-pro

to use as my back -up / spare so I can leave the enttec in the van when checking programming at home.

It was much cheaper than the Enttec and it worked out of the box without any configuration ( I did have to do a bit with the enttec)... It also works flawlessly and doesn't need an adaptor.

[Stephen Kirby]

I've been looking into this on Debbie's advice.  Note that you have to hook those gadgets to a wireless access point.  Looking into getting one.  Just freed up a old iPad that I can use primarily for lighting.  Will have to try running the lighting and mixer programs on one since I don't do a lot with either.  Not a lot of lighting scene changes, just a few pre-programmed chases.  And I just do minor mix tweaks from the iPad while walking around.  And save the more involved stuff for being at the surface.  If I end up with two tablets I'll probably get another AP so I can have it at the stage instead of running 150' of DMX cable like I do for the hardware controller now.

[Debbie Dunkley]

I've been looking into this on Debbie's advice.  Note that you have to hook those gadgets to a wireless access point.  Looking into getting one.  Just freed up a old iPad that I can use primarily for lighting.  Will have to try running the lighting and mixer programs on one since I don't do a lot with either.  Not a lot of lighting scene changes, just a few pre-programmed chases.  And I just do minor mix tweaks from the iPad while walking around.  And save the more involved stuff for being at the surface.  If I end up with two tablets I'll probably get another AP so I can have it at the stage instead of running 150' of DMX cable like I do for the hardware controller now.

Yes - I should have mentioned that I connect my Enttec ODE to the same router I use for my QU PAC.

[ProSoundWeb Community]