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[Debbie Dunkley]

I thought this was solved by using genuine Neutrik connectors?

Yeah - it was. Long story - this one got past me (helping hands) and as soon as I realized, I tried to remove it and it was already stuck. (This was even before the show started).
The connector used is not Neutrik but not cheap either and is a cable I have had for many years and was in my spare box at the show....I have mainly Neutrik, Switchcraft and Amphenol connectors but I do still have a few lesser brands that have always been reliable in every other application.
I am frustrated because I have been using Neutriks in the SRX boxes ever since the last time this occurred and this is the first time anything BUT Neutrik was used since.

With that said, I do feel I shouldn't have to stick to a XLR connector brand for this not to occur though - this is a problem with the SRX800 boxes.

So before I attempt the fix myself, how easy is it to get in there and repair/replace?  I'll use the other input for now till I can get the fix done.
If it is too difficult for me, I'll just remove the amp and take it into the shop.

[Scott Holtzman]

Yeah - it was. Long story - this one got past me (helping hands) and as soon as I realized, I tried to remove it and it was already stuck. (This was even before the show started).
The connector used is not Neutrik but not cheap either and is a cable I have had for many years and was in my spare box at the show....I have mainly Neutrik, Switchcraft and Amphenol connectors but I do still have a few lesser brands that have always been reliable in every other application.
I am frustrated because I have been using Neutriks in the SRX boxes ever since the last time this occurred and this is the first time anything BUT Neutrik was used since.

With that said, I do feel I shouldn't have to stick to a XLR connector brand for this not to occur though - this is a problem with the SRX800 boxes.

So before I attempt the fix myself, how easy is it to get in there and repair/replace?  I'll use the other input for now till I can get the fix done.
If it is too difficult for me, I'll just remove the amp and take it into the shop.

I don't think it's the JBL's.  We have had it happen with the QSC's and DL32 stage boxes, X32R mixers. 

[Dave Garoutte]

I don't think it's the JBL's.  We have had it happen with the QSC's and DL32 stage boxes, X32R mixers.

I have a fairly high end Chauvet fixture with a 5-pin dmx cable permanently attached.  I spent a couple of hours trying to remove it to no avail.  It's now the last fixture in the daisy chain.

[Debbie Dunkley]

So before I attempt the fix myself, how easy is it to get in there and repair/replace?  I'll use the other input for now till I can get the fix done.
If it is too difficult for me, I'll just remove the amp and take it into the shop.

So can anyone answer how easy this fix is?
If I remove ONLY the small XLR chassis connector securing screws from the outside, will it allow mw access to the other side or do I have no choice but to remove the amp and go inside?

[Scott Holtzman]

So can anyone answer how easy this fix is?
If I remove ONLY the small XLR chassis connector securing screws from the outside, will it allow mw access to the other side or do I have no choice but to remove the amp and go inside?

You have to go inside, the nut or backing plate will fall off.  More than likely soldered to the board too.  May have short wires.

Is the release button busted?   If so you may be able to use a feeler gauge to release.

[Debbie Dunkley]

You have to go inside, the nut or backing plate will fall off.  More than likely soldered to the board too.  May have short wires.

Is the release button busted?   If so you may be able to use a feeler gauge to release.

The release button appears  to be working 'normally' - it just won't let go!

[David Sturzenbecher]

The release button appears  to be working 'normally' - it just won't let go!

You probably haven't sworn enough at it.

[Debbie Dunkley]

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can get this amp out? I have tried to get it to release from the cabinet but it is well and truly stuck (just like the XLR).... I realize they use some kind of glue to help keep it in place but how on earth can I get that to release? I have tapped it with a rubber hammer from the inside but I don't want to cause any damage to the amp housing. What a total PIA!

[Debbie Dunkley]

I called JBL and they suggested using channel locks to try to manipulate the barrel back into shape. It wasn't really out of round to start with - or at least the part I could see wasn't but it was worth a try.  Anyway - I tried 4 different types of channel lock type tools carefully and slowly bending the barrel going round and round in increments but couldn't get it to budge.
Then I tried something different.....
I gripped one side of the barrel with some needle nose pliers and twisted round instead of pulling and ..... VOILA! It came out. The connector mechanism is even still working ( I tried it with my brand new Neutrik XLR) PLUS I didn't scratch or damage the amp plate at all.  I am SO relieved.... I am NEVER allowing another XLR cable in my box unless it is either Neutrik OR Switchcraft. I hope this helps anyone else with this problem. Give it a try!

The cables I have in my main cable box allocated for PA speakers are heavy duty and Neutrik connectors - coded red for easy identification and they are the only ones I ever use for PA. The only reason I had this other cable with me was because we were running sound on an outdoor stage with multiple acts so I grabbed my spare box of cables just in case I needed extras for mics etc. The tolerances are less fussy with those so I can use XLR brands other than Neutrik. My friend in trying to help me took one from this 'extras' box and used it for the speaker.

Now all I have to do is put all the screws back in - all 46 of them!

[Scott Holtzman]

I called JBL and they suggested using channel locks to try to manipulate the barrel back into shape. It wasn't really out of round to start with - or at least the part I could see wasn't but it was worth a try.  Anyway - I tried 4 different types of channel lock type tools carefully and slowly bending the barrel going round and round in increments but couldn't get it to budge.
Then I tried something different.....
I gripped one side of the barrel with some needle nose pliers and twisted round instead of pulling and ..... VOILA! It came out. The connector mechanism is even still working ( I tried it with my brand new Neutrik XLR) PLUS I didn't scratch or damage the amp plate at all.  I am SO relieved.... I am NEVER allowing another XLR cable in my box unless it is either Neutrik OR Switchcraft. I hope this helps anyone else with this problem. Give it a try!

The cables I have in my main cable box allocated for PA speakers are heavy duty and Neutrik connectors - coded red for easy identification and they are the only ones I ever use for PA. The only reason I had this other cable with me was because we were running sound on an outdoor stage with multiple acts so I grabbed my spare box of cables just in case I needed extras for mics etc. The tolerances are less fussy with those so I can use XLR brands other than Neutrik. My friend in trying to help me took one from this 'extras' box and used it for the speaker.

Now all I have to do is put all the screws back in - all 46 of them!

Yeah I probably would have freaked you out because mentally I would have already been committed to replacing the connector so I would have grabbed a big ass pair of channel locks and acted like I was pulling a molar. 

As far as the putty, yeah that stuff is tough.  The damn molex connectos come out on the PRX subs so I have had experience pulling them on friends gear.  Usually a small putty knife.  I can't imagine you could strike it with a mallet with sufficient force without denting the inside housing.  Would not go down that path.  What did you do, take the drivers out and position the mallet inside the cabinet?

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