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[Stephen Kirby]

Since I have about 3-4 times a year when I could use a bit of light, I bought a set of integrated T-bar RGBW lights from Cheaplights.  But the 6' stands are useless.  Right in people's eyes.

Looking for something economical and there are tons of things out there 8-12' with T-bars already on them for hanging cheap PARs.  Chauvet CH06, Odyssey LT-P2, the Musicians Gear stand, etc.  But none of them say what the diameter of the top pole is when you take the T-bar off.  It looks like both 35mm and 38mm are common and I need the 35mm to go with my stuff.

Does anyone have any of these stands and know what the pole diameter is?

[William Schnake]

Since I have about 3-4 times a year when I could use a bit of light, I bought a set of integrated T-bar RGBW lights from Cheaplights.  But the 6' stands are useless.  Right in people's eyes.

Looking for something economical and there are tons of things out there 8-12' with T-bars already on them for hanging cheap PARs.  Chauvet CH06, Odyssey LT-P2, the Musicians Gear stand, etc.  But none of them say what the diameter of the top pole is when you take the T-bar off.  It looks like both 35mm and 38mm are common and I need the 35mm to go with my stuff.

Does anyone have any of these stands and know what the pole diameter is?

I don't know the diameter of the ones that you have mentioned, but I just order a pair of Utilmate Support TS-99B stands that I am going to be using for small lighting stuff.  They have the 35mm stand top and have a height of between 5' 2" and 9' 2".  For small shows that means that I don't have to bring out set of Global ST-132 stands.

Bill

[Mark Cadwallader]

The TS-99B stands have a 38mm tee bar, IIRC. You may have to look at ADJ or On-Stage. At least some of those are also drilled for bolts, rather than needing clamps.

[William Schnake]

The TS-99B stands have a 38mm tee bar, IIRC. You may have to look at ADJ or On-Stage. At least some of those are also drilled for bolts, rather than needing clamps.

Mark, you are right that the telescoping tube is 38mm, however the nipple where you place the bar is 35mm.  The nipple is removable.

Thanks

Bill

[Mark Cadwallader]

Mark, you are right that the telescoping tube is 38mm, however the nipple where you place the bar is 35mm.  The nipple is removable.

Thanks

Bill

Bill, thank you. I mis-read the OP's question. You are correct, there is an insert sleeve that provides a 35 mm post for a speaker top hat. I use the TS-99BL, which has a useful leveling leg feature.

[Mike Pyle]

Steve,

Most of the cheap tall stands are 38mm (nominally 1.5") outside. Some that I have had could fit a 35mm subwoofer pole inside, and I have used that to adapt them when needed. Just crossdrill through the top of the stand and the pole to secure it.

[Dave Garoutte]

38mm is 1 1/2"
35mm is 1 3/8"
I use 1 1/4 EMT (1 1/2 OD) for my tall uprights.
The sticks are 10 feet long, strong and cheap at Home Depot.
Cut them to length, paint them black and you're good to go.
If I need more, I use crank stands.
The 35mm spuds are more of an issue.
I should make a bunch of neck-down spuds to use with EMT for sale.
Any interest?

[Debbie Dunkley]

Since I have about 3-4 times a year when I could use a bit of light, I bought a set of integrated T-bar RGBW lights from Cheaplights.  But the 6' stands are useless.  Right in people's eyes.

Looking for something economical and there are tons of things out there 8-12' with T-bars already on them for hanging cheap PARs.  Chauvet CH06, Odyssey LT-P2, the Musicians Gear stand, etc.  But none of them say what the diameter of the top pole is when you take the T-bar off.  It looks like both 35mm and 38mm are common and I need the 35mm to go with my stuff.

Does anyone have any of these stands and know what the pole diameter is?

The musician's gear stand is 35mm diameter - both stand and T-bar and for the money is very good. Tall and quite sturdy. However, although the aluminum makes it really lightweight to transport, it is necessary to spread the legs quite a bit to get back the stability.

[Mike Karseboom]

38mm is 1 1/2"
35mm is 1 3/8"
I use 1 1/4 EMT (1 1/2 OD) for my tall uprights.
The sticks are 10 feet long, strong and cheap at Home Depot.
Cut them to length, paint them black and you're good to go.
If I need more, I use crank stands.
The 35mm spuds are more of an issue.
I should make a bunch of neck-down spuds to use with EMT for sale.
Any interest?

If you are talking about a short (6-8"?) metal tube that will slip over a 38mm pole and then reduces to a 35mm end suitable for inserting into the bottom of a speaker, I would be interested.  Of course I would only need a couple.


It seems like for the most part speaker top hats are  typially 35mm and speaker tripods have 35mm poles to match.  But then the simple pole cups found on most older or cheaper subs seem to accept a 38mm pole. 


For the cheap lighting gear with crossbars that often feature plastic "T" fittings, it seems they are usually 38mm.  Most of the taller tripods marketed as lighting stands have 38mm poles to match.


I have ended up with a variety of tripods with both diameters.  And I often use them interchangeably for lights or small speakers.  So the difference in size has been a constant hassle.


Something another I own came with little round adpaters that slip over a 35mm tube and increase the size to 38mm.  These seem to be fairly common and make it easy to use the smaller diameter tripods with light t-bars that are 38mm.


Going the other direction, from 38mm down to 35mm so you can put a small speaker on a lighting tripod with 38mm pole is not so easy.  So your "spud" would be very useful.  Bonus points for a second pair with 7 degree tilt.

[Scott Holtzman]

I should make a bunch of neck-down spuds to use with EMT for sale.
Any interest?

Put me down for an ass load of them please.

Dozen or more (since you don't know how big our production ass is)

[Dave Garoutte]

Put me down for an ass load of them please.

Dozen or more (since you don't know how big our production ass is)

Ok, I'll get to work on them.
Bare aluminum? or black anodized; probably adds $2 each.
The intent is to tap them into 1 1/2" OD EMT hack-sawed to your length.
The EMT is way stronger that the standard aluminum poles and come in 10' lengths.
I'll send you a pair of prototypes to play with.

[Dave Garoutte]

Scott, I just sent you an IM.

Mike, the 7 degree can be problematic without adding a couple on inches of offset (not so easy).
If the center of gravity of the speaker isn't directly over the upright pole, a fair amount of bending and tippyness (technical term) will ensue.

[Dave Garoutte]

Just slapped these 10 degree tilters together for my street fair gig.
Note the offset to keep the CG over the pole.

[Mike Karseboom]

Those are nice looking tilters. 


Two out of three of the speakers I typically want tilted have built in cups that at least partially compensate for the center of gravity.  Unfortunately the Yamaha  DSR 12's don't.  I have the K&M adjustable tilters  that attache to the top a a speaker pole and have the expanding mandrel to grip the speaker.  They don't compensate for COG problems.  Yet with the typical 40 pound  speaker and basic steel crank stand I have not had any problems even with the offset COG.  I do put one of the tripod legs in line with the front of the speaker and ensure the speaker cannot rotate.  The legs on my stands have a 6 foot diameter spread and putting the speakers up around 9' seems secure enough to me.


I guess you would have to figure out some way to keep the spud and the speaker from rotating.  In any event I'll sign up for a pair of straight ones!

[Dave Garoutte]

The speaker in the pix is a DSR115.
Straight pole cup only.
The plate under the speaker will have weather stripping to eliminate rotation.
I agree that steel crank stand (like the one shown) are probably strong enough for a non CG corrected tilt.  The typical aluminum tripod poles probably aren't.  The pin hole can cause a large stress riser with enough side load.

[Stephen Kirby]

This turned into a speaker tilt thread so I'll chime in that I bought a set of Nimrod's tilters and they work fantastically.  A bit more complex than a fixed angle tilter but extremely useful aiming across a venue.

For the light stands, I found that I could combine the 35mm top pole from some cheap speaker stands I had with the Cheap Lights stands by flipping the top 38mm tube and putting the 35mm tube and collar from the cheap stands into it.  Gives me about a 9' stand.  I also bought some 12' stands from MF so I have some options in putting other things in various places.

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