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[Josh Evangelista]

Hi guys!

Last month I became Im a proud owner of JBL's latest SRX828sp subs. I havent tested my speakers as today. In the meantime I bought a set of caster kits from JBL. I removed the bolts from the speakers to make way for the casters but all of a sudden two of the T-nuts fell off inside the cabinet.

Will you guys know if it will affect my warranty if I open and remount/fix the nut or should I send it back to JBL or one of their service centers for repair? This will cost an arm and a leg to ship.

[Brandon Scopel]

Not sure if this helps since I don't remember details since it was a while ago but.... http://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php?topic=156572.0



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[Josh Evangelista]

Thanks Brandon. I wonder if Debbie was able to put those T-Nuts back?

[Brandon Scopel]

I'll ask if she doesn't see this post.

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[Debbie Dunkley]

PM'd you Josh. Haven't gotten around to mine yet and its not been a problem so far but I will get it done soon as my outdoor  and larger shows start and I'll need to use them more.

[Josh Evangelista]

PM'd you Josh. Haven't gotten around to mine yet and its not been a problem so far but I will get it done soon as my outdoor  and larger shows start and I'll need to use them more.

Replied and thank you for the speedy response Debbie! I wonder how many owners have encountered this issue. Im torn between fixing it myself or sending this to a service center. My T-nut fell inside the cabinet. I wonder if this will rattle inside.

[Luke Geis]

It is not a deal breaker really. It should not void the warranty unless you go hog wild trying to get inside. Simply removing a handle and getting to the thing with a magnet should be fine.

[Debbie Dunkley]

It is not a deal breaker really. It should not void the warranty unless you go hog wild trying to get inside. Simply removing a handle and getting to the thing with a magnet should be fine.

Can't do it that way, I tried.....I don't see a way of getting to the T nuts without removing a driver. According to he JBL tech I spoke to, it wouldn't be a problem unless the amp showed signs of tampering.

[Ivan Beaver]

My T-nut fell inside the cabinet. I wonder if this will rattle inside.

Yes it will rattle-until it finds a magnet to stick to.  Then the rattle stops.

[Debbie Dunkley]

I was fortunate that when I took the grille off, I put my arm through and in between the separating boards, reached back and to the left ( the side where the T nut fell) and immediately put my hand on the fallen T nut......Just a fluke. I wouldn't want them rattling around in there. However, I did notice a lot of wadding at the back of the cabinet which could  'catch'the T nut and stop it from rattling around too much.

[Jamin Lynch]

It shouldn't void the warranty. If amp or speaker fails, you're not going to send the whole speaker box to JBL for repair. Just the amp or the speaker. They will never see the cabinet.

[Josh Evangelista]

I was fortunate that when I took the grille off, I put my arm through and in between the separating boards, reached back and to the left ( the side where the T nut fell) and immediately put my hand on the fallen T nut......Just a fluke. I wouldn't want them rattling around in there. However, I did notice a lot of wadding at the back of the cabinet which could  'catch'the T nut and stop it from rattling around too much.

Debbie, I called JBL and they suggested to send it for repair to a service center or if I was brave enough, to DIY. Luke Geis was correct as it was confirmed by JBL that I can reattach through the handle. I removed 8 screws, detached the handle and voila, those T-Nuts were right smack in front of the handle opening. Piece of cake! I dont even have to hammer it back. All I did was screw the bolt on the cabinet with the nut attached.

Thanks for your help and everyone else!

[Debbie Dunkley]

Debbie, I called JBL and they suggested to send it for repair to a service center or if I was brave enough, to DIY. Luke Geis was correct as it was confirmed by JBL that I can reattach through the handle. I removed 8 screws, detached the handle and voila, those T-Nuts were right smack in front of the handle opening. Piece of cake! I dont even have to hammer it back. All I did was screw the bolt on the cabinet with the nut attached.

Thanks for your help and everyone else!

The first thing I tried was to get the handle off - but couldn't.  It is in 2 parts and the the main part (that you hold) came away and I couldn't get the recessed housing off... How did you do manage to do that because I agree it would make the job much easier.??

One more thing - I mentioned to the JBL tech when I called that the handle wasn't coming off and I assumed it was glued in really well - he didn't offer any advice there so I figured it wasn't a solution. was there a seal or glue holding yours on?

[Scott Holtzman]

Debbie, I called JBL and they suggested to send it for repair to a service center or if I was brave enough, to DIY. Luke Geis was correct as it was confirmed by JBL that I can reattach through the handle. I removed 8 screws, detached the handle and voila, those T-Nuts were right smack in front of the handle opening. Piece of cake! I dont even have to hammer it back. All I did was screw the bolt on the cabinet with the nut attached.

Thanks for your help and everyone else!

I would have put a touch a wood glue on the t-nut, avoiding the threads for a little future insurance.

[Josh Evangelista]

The first thing I tried was to get the handle off - but couldn't.  It is in 2 parts and the the main part (that you hold) came away and I couldn't get the recessed housing off... How did you do manage to do that because I agree it would make the job much easier.??

One more thing - I mentioned to the JBL tech when I called that the handle wasn't coming off and I assumed it was glued in really well - he didn't offer any advice there so I figured it wasn't a solution. was there a seal or glue holding yours on?

If you look at the handle you will notice that you have 4 screws on each side. Unscrew the middle bolts (2nd and 3rd from the top) on each side that holds the handle. Once thats done, just pull the handle and it should come off easily. If it doesn't, you might have to exert a little effort. Now to take out the whole handle housing and not to damage the cab, you have to pry it carefully as it is glued. I used a flat screwdriver and pried it on the right side of the handle, between the top and 2nd screw.

Scott. Yup I thought about that but I wasn't going to unbolt all those wheels unless I sell the cabs.

[Debbie Dunkley]

If you look at the handle you will notice that you have 4 screws on each side. Unscrew the middle bolts (2nd and 3rd from the top) on each side that holds the handle. Once thats done, just pull the handle and it should come off easily. If it doesn't, you might have to exert a little effort. Now to take out the whole handle housing and not to damage the cab, you have to pry it carefully as it is glued. I used a flat screwdriver and pried it on the right side of the handle, between the top and 2nd screw.

Scott. Yup I thought about that but I wasn't going to unbolt all those wheels unless I sell the cabs.

Yes - I figured they had to be well glued in - when the 'T' nut first fell inside, I spent some time trying to pry the one off closest to where it fell. I'll try again at some point but I'm not going to risk busting the wood.

[Ivan Beaver]

I would have put a touch a wood glue on the t-nut, avoiding the threads for a little future insurance.

General wood glue in intended for porous surfaces. It does not stick to metal very good.

Silicon is much better for sticking to both surfaces and easy to work with.

Construction adhesive would be better-but can be a bit messy.

[Debbie Dunkley]

If you look at the handle you will notice that you have 4 screws on each side. Unscrew the middle bolts (2nd and 3rd from the top) on each side that holds the handle. Once thats done, just pull the handle and it should come off easily. If it doesn't, you might have to exert a little effort. Now to take out the whole handle housing and not to damage the cab, you have to pry it carefully as it is glued. I used a flat screwdriver and pried it on the right side of the handle, between the top and 2nd screw.

Scott. Yup I thought about that but I wasn't going to unbolt all those wheels unless I sell the cabs.

Old thread I know but I remembered Josh you had been able to remove the handle from your SRX cab so I checked out what you did. I still can't seem to get it off though. Removing the middle screws simply allows the handle piece to come apart from the recessed mount. How did you remove the mount?

[Scott Holtzman]

Old thread I know but I remembered Josh you had been able to remove the handle from your SRX cab so I checked out what you did. I still can't seem to get it off though. Removing the middle screws simply allows the handle piece to come apart from the recessed mount. How did you remove the mount?

Same technique we discussed with your stuck XLR.  Putty knife or sharp flat blade screwdriver.  Be prepared for a scratch or two with some touch up paint or a giant Sharpey.

[Chris Grimshaw]

With compressed foam gaskets, you can end up with parts stuck firmly to the cabinet, even with no screws in place.

You can lever them apart, but would recommend doing so over a fairly wide area. A small flat screwdriver, for instance, will do the job, but will usually leave an indentation in the wood that you're levering against.

Chris

[Geert Friedhof]

Can it still perform, now that its nuts fell off? Will it go low enough?


Sorry...

[Debbie Dunkley]

Same technique we discussed with your stuck XLR.  Putty knife or sharp flat blade screwdriver.  Be prepared for a scratch or two with some touch up paint or a giant Sharpey.

I had never been able to remove the handle closest to the amp so when this stuck XLR situation occurred,  I tried to remove it again - these panels are glued in pretty darn good.

[Kyle R Forbes]

Can it still perform, now that its nuts fell off? Will it go low enough?


Sorry...

Hahahahahahahaha

[ProSoundWeb Community]