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[Stephen Kirby]

This is an oldschool thing but for a covering, something we did back in the day was laminate fabric onto the box.  A corse weave somewhere between canvas and burlap.  Slightly open weave.  Applied with white woodworkers glue in the same fashion as you put fiberglass cloth on.  A wet coat of glue on the cabinet, press the cloth into it (a grooved roller helps here) and paint more glue over the top of it sealing in the cloth.  You can dye the glue black with epoxy paint or some coloring agent.  The result is a textured surface that hides minor flaws in the wood and is much much harder to tear off than just about anything else.

The Duratex is similar to the paint sold as truck bed liner in auto parts stores.  I've just found that stuff to be more expensive and more of a pain to work with.  After doing a couple of cabinets with bed liner, the Duratex was such a breeze.

Even though many amps will be rated into low loads, they always seem happier with higher loads.  I used to have a tri-amp rig driven from 3 QSC PLXs (3402, 2402 and 1202).  One gig I hooked them up with the amps bridged thinking that the increased power would give more headroom and clarity.  This wasn't running particularly hard either.  Bridging effectively halves the impedance seen by the amp in addition to running the speakers in parallel.  So I went from running at 8 ohms to effectively 2 ohms, still within the amp's rated limits.  The net result was that it sounded noticeably worse.  Kind of congested sounding without the punch and sparkle I had running dual mono at higher impedances.

[JohnGeorge]

@bill- 3750w must be burst then, also I don't see a long term output mentioned at 2 ohm..anyways, if u guys say that I shouldn't go below 4 ohms then 2 ohms ratings don't matter.

@Stephen- I think to laminate a fabric will be a more complex process for me and paint/tolex sounds doable to me. I just need to look for it, I'm sure I'll be able to find it.

So now I've got almost everything clarified and I have also decided as to what I'm going for. Thank you all, u have been great with your suggestions, opinions and prompt responses.

Only thing I need help with is the b&c design. Any one got a detailed sketch or a pic showing the inside of the box?

 



 

[Stephen Kirby]

For the paint you want either a polyurethane or epoxy coating.  Enamel won't hold up to much handling.  Another option besides truck bed liner might be epoxy concrete floor paint such as people use on their garage floors.

[Rob Spence]

I would suggest 25mm threaded inserts for poles for the tops. No wobble and they only intrude about a half inch into the cabinet.  Skip the cups.


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[JohnGeorge]

Thanks stephen and rob,

@Rob - i would have gone with the threaded inserts but I'm planning to use the poles that come with the speaker stands.
so when I'm not using the stands i can just use the pole.

[Rob Spence]

Thanks stephen and rob,

@Rob - i would have gone with the threaded inserts but I'm planning to use the poles that come with the speaker stands.
so when I'm not using the stands i can just use the pole.

You are planning on taking the tripod stand apart and using it?

Just get the right poles. Think a little longer out.


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[JohnGeorge]

Yes Rob i understand that but I'm sure that threaded poles will not be available locally and for me to pay shipping on every item becomes illogical.

as far as tripod stand poles are concerned, i have used them like that for years without any issue. apart from this one time when this drunk fella launched himself towards the speaker. it chipped the wood on one side around the cup (on the sub) due to the force and weight. but,if it has to happen then it will also happen with a threaded pole.

other option is to DIY a speaker pole with a thread - i definately do not want to take this risk.

however, i'll will still check if its available but the probability is 0.

and if there i any other reason i shouldn't do that, then pls let me know.

thanks, this type of advice is what I'm looking for which makes me think if i have made the right choices.

[JohnGeorge]

guys pls have a look at the attachment.

parts labeled 1-5 are all internal braces right? can i change the position of the internal bracing since

parts labeled 1 & 2 - its where the handles will come on either sides of the box, in the center. slightly towards the front. (to equalize the weight since most of the weight is in the front where the cone is).

part labelled 3 - it's where the speaker pole cup will come.

also @bill
"I like tying opposite walls together with braces. They don't have to be big, and in a sub the subtraction from internal volume is minimal. Just glue and screw them onto your wall braces - side to side, top to bottom. They are not in the B&C plans, but will really help tighten up a cab using less than optimal wood."
        if the above parts labeled 1-5 are internal braces then they are tied the way you said. it just that its tied on the side and not in the center like a + sign.right?

Sorry, im asking too many questions. it's just that im confused when you mentioned that it's not in the B&C plan.

[Bill Hornibrook]

Somewhere around the center of the cab, I ran a tie brace between 3 and 5, and between 1 and it's counterpart on the blind side of your illustration. On my 21" subs, I also ran triangle braces between 4 and 3&5, but it's a larger enclosure.

For braces I just use scraps left over from cutting the panels of the cab.

[Stephen Kirby]

That tie piece #3 is going to interfere if you put a pole cup in the top of the cabinet.  You either want to make it deeper or put two small ones in parallel.

[ProSoundWeb Community]