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[Doug Fowler]

I need to rig a pair of Danley SH-96HO to a sturdy wood beam in a temp install.  The building is getting the architect or whomever to sign off on it.

They will go up horizontally.  Would like to preserve as much height as possible.  It doesn't need much downtilt, if any, since there is an upstairs area needing coverage.

Ideas?

Is wire rope / nicopress permitted?

TIA

[duane massey]

I typically either use wire rope or yokes, never had any issues with either, as far as acceptability to architects, consultants, local authorities. That being said, my area is not particularly know for strict standards and/or inspections, so YMMV.

[Scott Carneval]

Are you able to wrap around the beam or do you have to attach eye bolts to the bottom?  I believe it's either Polar Focus or ATM who makes a plate that bolts through the beam and has rigging hardware on the bottom.

But either way I would be using wire rope to attach the speaker. If wrapping around the beam then you would need burlap or some other material to 'pad' the sharp corners. If this is temporary then a spanset should work too



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[Cailen Waddell]

Steel set Spansets would get my vote.  Some eye bolts in the top of the 96's with eye bolts in the preset rigging points... Shackles... Done. 

I prefer steel Spansets since they don't get melty in the event of a fire.  Your local AHJ may like that too.


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[Josh Millward]

Another possible solution, if you can not wrap the beam because the ceiling is sitting on top of it, may be to drill all the way through the beam. Drill a hole the size of a threaded rod (something like 3/4" to 1" threaded rod would probably be fine). Then you can add large flat washers, lock washers, and eye nuts to each end of the threaded rod. Be sure to cut the threaded rod long enough to fully engage the eye nuts but not so long as to interfere with attaching your shackle or wire rope assembly. The eye nuts should snug down tight to the beam and provide a couple really robust connection points. Depending on your orientation and exactly how you need to do it, two sets may be required.

After that, yeah, wire rope with appropriately pressed nicopress sleeves and thimbles would be the ticket to connect to shackles attaching the eye bolts in the box.

If you need to remove it all later, you can opt to either leave the eye nuts and threaded rod up there for future use, or you can pull it out and fill the holes with foam and/or wood putty. If you are really good, no one will be able to tell that it was ever there. Also, you have not negatively impacted the strength of the beam because you have not cut the top or bottom chord of the beam.

[Scott Carneval]

Another possible solution, if you can not wrap the beam because the ceiling is sitting on top of it, may be to drill all the way through the beam. Drill a hole the size of a threaded rod (something like 3/4" to 1" threaded rod would probably be fine). Then you can add large flat washers, lock washers, and eye nuts to each end of the threaded rod. Be sure to cut the threaded rod long enough to fully engage the eye nuts but not so long as to interfere with attaching your shackle or wire rope assembly. The eye nuts should snug down tight to the beam and provide a couple really robust connection points. Depending on your orientation and exactly how you need to do it, two sets may be required.

After that, yeah, wire rope with appropriately pressed nicopress sleeves and thimbles would be the ticket to connect to shackles attaching the eye bolts in the box.

If you need to remove it all later, you can opt to either leave the eye nuts and threaded rod up there for future use, or you can pull it out and fill the holes with foam and/or wood putty. If you are really good, no one will be able to tell that it was ever there. Also, you have not negatively impacted the strength of the beam because you have not cut the top or bottom chord of the beam.

Depending on the WLL of the eye nut and the weight of the load, horizontal loading of the eye nut may not be an option.  Typically the WLL is severely reduced when loaded at greater than 45º from vertical.  See attached photo for reference:

[Scott Carneval]

Something like this is what I alluded to in my original post: http://www.polarfocus.com/catalog/family/custom-beam-attachment-44/#family-header

It will allow you to bolt through the beam and still retain the proper load angle for the eye bolts.  It might be a bit of overkill for a temporary hang, but it's definitely the way to go for a permanent install. 

[Doug Fowler]

Are you able to wrap around the beam or do you have to attach eye bolts to the bottom?  I believe it's either Polar Focus or ATM who makes a plate that bolts through the beam and has rigging hardware on the bottom.

But either way I would be using wire rope to attach the speaker. If wrapping around the beam then you would need burlap or some other material to 'pad' the sharp corners. If this is temporary then a spanset should work too



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I can wrap the beam, no possibility to drill through it.

I'm thinking steel core spansets is the way I'll go.  A pair of baskets on the beam for each speaker, then rig the boxes to the baskets.  I could choke it but prefer to not torque the beam.

There should be no angles greater than 45 degrees.  Plus, the weight will be distributed among four points.

[Tim Weaver]

I've done this with wire rope/nicopress but ran the rope through some rubber fuel line where it rests against the wood. This way it won't cut or chafe should you find any monkeys swinging from it.

[Cailen Waddell]

Old garden hose also a good option for permanent padding of wire rope.   But steel Spansets....  So much easier....


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